Topic: 468" E headed PONTIAC motor 575+ horse

[iceman]

Pontiac 468 Street/Race motor
‘70 455 block, bored .040”, 2 bolt, ARP studded caps
Ross Forged 4.190”, 456 gram, .990” Floating Pin Flat Top pistons
Eagle 6.8” Forged Rods with ARP bolts
Eagle cast 4.250” Crank
Total Seal file fit rings
Cloyes double roller timing chain
Comp Cams Solid roller: Duration @ .050- 254 INT;  262 EXH.  Lift: .583 INT;
.574”EXH,  108 centerline( I have cam card)
Comp Cams #859 Solid Roller Lifters
Edelbrock 87cc heads, 2.11”/1.66” valves, ported by KRE and flow 297 IN/ 253 EX both at .550 lift (have flow sheet)
Harland Sharp 1.65 Roller rockers
ARP 7/16” Rocker studs and ARP head bolts(ARP studs available)
Comp Cams 917 springs, retainers and locks
Kauffman stud girdle
Comp Cams Magnum 7/16” pushrods
Moroso 8 qt pan
Melling RA IV, 80 psi oil pump
Kauffman oil filter bracket with bypass delete
TCI SFI flex plate
Aluminum water pump with cast impeller
Billet crank and water pump pulleys
Performance products balancer
JEGS mini high torque starter
ARP 6 point polished stainless bolt kit
All-Pontiac front A-body motor plate
Edelbrock Victor 4150 intake with $200 worth of silver sparkle powdercoating
Pro Systems 950 4150 style carb built for this particular combo and dual -08 fuel line.


Dougs PN# 567 Round port ceramic headers with no staining or road rash, Dr Gas 3.5” into 3” X pipe and Pypes Violator mufflers, dumping at the axle;

JEGS 130 GPH electric pump, ½” aluminum line to -08 braided line to billet fuel filter, Holley regulator(mounted off of passenger side fender) and -08 braided line to matching Dual feed line to carb.

This is a tried and true 10 second motor combination that was built purposely for the street and ran so well at the track, further testing and tuning got it into the 10:90’s at 126 MPH on motor only. This has always been a motor only engine. Never runs above 190 in traffic in a low 90 degree, humid day with a factory clutch fan. Motor is in a ’69 GTO with a full interior and no roll bar. Car weighs in at 3900 with me in it. The rear gear was a 3:55 and it ran 11:10’s and 4:10 put it into the 10’s. The rotating assemble came new from Kauffman and along with a few other items. This has been a fantastic set-up for me. Maybe 30 passes and under 500 street miles in 4 years. Stored in climate control, motor has nice oil psi(50-80 psi) and is a blast to drive. VERY crisp response and pulls strong. Ran leaded 110 up until this year and will run well on 92 pump gas.  Looking for $8500 for all listed up to this point.

I also have a TH-400 reverse pattern transmission:
Select Performance 9” 4000 converter(bought from fellow PY member)
Billet FWD drum
Blue clutches
Billet input shaft
1480, 34 element sprag
TCI deep pan
CSR full trans shield(may need to be recerted)-great for stock floor boards.
$2300 for the trans, converter and shield (I had to ask my trans guy what he put in it) Trans has been wonderful also with no problems or issues

All of this is in the car for inspection and won’t take long to pull apart. You can hear, diagnose and we can take the car down the road to insure what this package is. Nice stuff, NO junk and built right. I’m sure I’ve missed something so please ask. May consider anything muscle car trade…Mike

[72blackbird]

iceman,
Sounds like a killer engine- why are you selling it if you mind me asking?

Geno

[iceman]

Geno, thanks for asking. I don't mind at all.. Here goes..:  I picked up a 428 in Detroit on the way home from the tri-power nationals last year to replace this motor in my GTO and would like to get going on it. That ='s $ to do that one. My vision for this car is to be the car that was dealer built in '69 that wasn't. Think Yenko, Nickey or Motion, Pontiac style. The motor I have is a '69 complete 360 horse engine with crumby heads. #46's I believe with the small valves and press in studs. A pair of #96's from a '71 400 are on the hunt for(or something similar). I have a nice M21 4-speed to back it up and top the motor off with some ram air pans. Torque thrust wheels with redlines for the throw back look. I want to replicate what one could have built by the dealer(royal) for someone who wanted more than what the factory offered. The motor being offered for sale originally came in my convertible I picked up in '05. It had a q-jet on top of a RPM manifold with a hydralic cam that I have NO idea of the specs. Heads were then ported with the intake matching. I have the paperwork on that and Jeff at KRE's records didn't go that far back. I swapped it into my GTO and started street racing it and had to make some improvements with a fuel delivery. I ended up balloning a COAN converter and that wiped out the crank-destroyed the thrust bearing and the crank and amazingly the block was fine. It was already .040 over and still the walls were in very nice condition. It had stock rods and heavy TRW forged pistons in it. I wanted to go faster. The bug has bit. I ordered a full rotator from KRE with ultra light weight pistons and pins. Eagle rods and crank. $1799 is a deal for this stuff balanced. I had a local machine shop prep the block-Autobohn engineering. The guy, Bob, claims to be THE Pontiac expert. He is an awesome machinist I will say. Had to line-hone the mains and they were perfect. So, he baked the block, lined the mains and cross hatched the cylinder walls. This = $850 OUCH!!... But it was right. I had Jeff Kauffman at KRE select the cam and bought the roller lifters along with the a stud girdle which was a little overkill for the lift, yet as a performance minded person, we all want a little more. Now, I have considered having the heads sent back to Jeff for some CNC porting to 340 cfm and adding 4 bolt mains with a nastier roller and an 1150 Dominator carb and that would boost this motor to about the 700 horse range. Anything more and you have to consider a lifter brack and filling the block to the coolant holes and in my opinion, an after market MR-1 block from KRE is the only choice.  Back to today. It won't kill me to keep this motor.It took me three days to assemble it. No matter who you have do a motor, I know they won't take the time I did. The crank was set in perfectly and spun so freely. Then the pistons and rods were put in whith the valve reliefs all going the correct way 'cause those spiral locks didn't look much fun getting back out. I've had motors built before and after dis-assembling them after a season or two, I noticed machining debris, nicks in the crank journals where the rods were put quickly without caution. I took the time to set the pick-up just right. It's set-screwed and wire tied so it doesn't come off. I'm not so much of a fan of welding these together. Not enough heat, the pick-up comes off. Too much heat and the oil pump ain't happy or efficient any more. I have been considering putting the parts back on it and returning it to when it was in my convertible. Had gobs of torque and ran real crisp. I figured it'll take 100 horse away, yet could make an awesome motor in my '77 T/A. I figured I'd offer it the way it is if someone wanted a drop in true tested motor and really wanted to do some hunting. The look I had from people expecting to find a BBC in there was worth it. Mike

[iceman]

PRICE DROP....


Intake to oil pan, no carb, front plate, starter, pulleys, etc. Basically a 'long block'..... $6200! Let's deal!

[NWW-79 T/A]

If i had the money I'd pick it up. Talk about a fun first car