Well, I finally got around to digging into the engine. So I learned a valuable, very basic lesson. Jumper cables on a test stand to NOT substitute for a good connection as that damn thing just would not crank hard enough to get a compression test. Daaa
Anyway, the numbers are as follows:
Dry Comp test
#1 - 160
#2 - 150
#3 - 160
#4 - 150
#5 - 120
#6 - 120
#7 - 60
#8 - 100
Well, the 5, 6, 7, and 8 don't look good. Some of them were bleeding air, but that might be fixed with the valve lapping. The number 7 spooked me so I did a wet test on the #7 to see if it would come up showing excessive ring wear and it stayed the same. After some thought, I thought it must have been a burnt valve or poor seating. I tore into the head and pulled the valves on the #7 to start. Sure enough the valve seal O rings were dry and broken and the exhaust valve was caked so much with carbon, I doubt is was flowing much air. The valve seat was pretty caked to on the edge and on the valve seat of the head. The problem might also be a crack somewhere, but I won't know till I take them down and get them dipped and magnafluxed. My fingers are crossed! But, based on the carbon build up and the broken seal, and the carbon on the valve seats, I think when I get the valves cleaned up and lapped I think they will have a better seal. Now on to the other head and I will CC them to find out how much will need to be taken off to achieve the proper balance of SCR for the Comp Cam XE262H. I would like have nailed down the recommended Crower 60916, but it likes a higher compression that I don't think will work with my 6X8 heads. I don't want to mill off too much to achieve the recommended 9:1 comp ratio. Maybe domed pistons along with milled heads would do that. Geno helped out in the past with the thoughts on the cam selection. I will check with him.
Yes, I think I need to rebuild the entire engine based on the few low comp. readings. There goes my goal of keeping it in a budget. But, it will be completely done right.........but a little longer to get it drivable as I only have a budget of $150 a month. But hey, it is cheaper then a car payment and I don't like credit cards! Being totally debt free as worth it!!
Anyway, I'm going to start with the heads first. I'll put the comp springs on them if they don't come back cracked, bag them up and move on to the long block.