Topic: 1978 Door Latch and Striker

[Transatrom]

I pulled out my passenger door latch because it required a lot of lift on the outside door handle to open and of course found it gummed up in 30+ years of grease.  Found the window tracks gummed up as well.  The window tracks cleaned up nicely but closer inspection revealed the strike point on the door latch was worn significantly.  Research of aftermarket vendors shows two to choose from.  I see Goodmark and Golden Star on ebay and through RockAuto as well as others sources.  I also see on ebay an anodized version which is much more expensive.

Does anyone find one better than the other (aside from general comments) from experience/performance/installation/durability?

The second item is the striker; I see Dorman #38428 which is just the pin.  Ebay lists two other configurations; one that is stainless which is just the pin and interstingly there is a striker with a metal collar?  My drivers door has the one with the metal collar on it. I have also seen threads where the use of doorman #38420 (nylon/plastic) which can be purchased in the "HELP" card section to slide over the striker.

With those three configurations, I wonder does the nylon provide for a quieter latch or is not acceptable at all and what is the proper configuration?

[Wallington]

The striker shouldn't wear unless your door hinges are shot. It simply latches to close the door, not used to align and hold it up. Of course it may have just been badly aligned for years until it wore out but normally a more straight forward reason. Worn out strikers with the collar will also spin on the shaft. MCI who supply the resto shops make a good repro too, more expensive than no names.
Make sure you match the length and size. And anything with an extra bush or sleeve more than stock shaft won't fit in door catch.

[Transatrom]

Well, see my post on the latch i ordered from Rock Auto.  Poor manufacturing specs has me sending it back for re-imbursement.  I'm not familiar with the acronym you used for a source?

[Wallington]

MCI is Muscle Car Industries. They are similar to OER and the likes, they supply the restoration shops direct. I thought mine was from them but a quick search only brings up the washers and gasket, which I also have. They also supply the gasket which helps protect paint when tightening and adjusting but also acts as a shim for fine tuning the fit.

Most of the Firebird and restoration specific companies 'should' provide a higher quality product than the regular shops. Here's a few:

http://fbodystore.com/1967-1981-firebird-trans-am-camaro-door-latch-striker-with-washer/

http://www.firebirdcentral.com/1967_1981_Door_Latch_Lock_Striker_Torx_Head_Ea_p/dwn-68.htm

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-88-GM-Cars-OEM-Door-Lock-Striker-Allen-Head-Made-In-USA-GM-20151275-/271410501743?fits=Year%3A1978|Model%3AFirebird&hash=item3f3153986f&vxp=mtr

http://www.musclecarindustries.com/Door_Lock_Striker_Washer_Each_p/dwn-66w.htm

http://www.musclecarindustries.com/product_p/dwn-515.htm

[Transatrom]

Thanks a bunch.   I tried to get away with saving some money.  I like your approach to purchasing from distributors that supply the shops, it makes sense.

[Wallington]

I was down at storage where my car parts are so dug it all out. Turns out it's by Classic Headquarters, another supplier, and purchased through Firebird Central but available at many. It has the hex head though, if that matters.



http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Corvette-Camaro-Nova-Chevelle-El-Camino-Firebird-Tempest-GTO-Door-Lock-Striker-/171398571855

[Transatrom]

Thanks, last night I ordered a set of door latches and correct "star" configured strikers from Firebird Central.  So well wait and see how much better the quality is @ $79 a piece for the latches.  I was also having difficulty with the window slightly striking the vertical metal chrome piece at the rear of the window and discovered someone had removed the front (1 of 3) window belt trim supports which allowed the front of the window to sag inward which places the top aft tip of the glass aft ward.  This has also contributed to the difficulty in closing the door because the top aft tip of the glass would first strike the vertical chrome piece then the cars rubber molding creating resistance to the door closing easily.  Its amazing the errors I've found.  Thanks for the picture of your strikers, again I ordered the same with the bushing in the correct star configuration.  I went back ordered the plastic washers as well now that you showed me they are needed as well, so thanks!

[Wallington]

No problem. I have a feeling I have a new set with original star type as well, who knows what I have once I go through it all!

The front window guide is sometimes missing the felt, but is still there for locating the door trim tops, if that's the part you mean. Sometimes they have the felt on them, other times bare. But should still have a guide there. There's other guides and stops too to adjust how high the glass goes. If you adjust the strikers and replace hinges, then be aware that it can be easy to clip a window while closing if out of adjustment. I'm yet to go too far into that.

[Transatrom]

Well, I have finally solved the reason the door latch purchased from Rock Auto didn't work.  To recap the issue; the door would latch and the door would release from the striker, however it required a tremendous amount of force from inside (banging the palm of the hand against it) to open.  All hinges and alignments were correct.

The following pictures reveal that Rock Auto sold me a defective door latch;  to that point look closley at the firebird/camero latch from Rock Auto and then compare it to the OER I received from Trans Am Specialties.

The blue friction plate that the striker rubs against was installed backwards; meaning the angle of the blue plate is towards the rear of the latch preventing the natural release of the door when opened.  It also required excessive force to close the door.

The comparison photos show clearly the blue pressure bumper was installed 180 degrees out keeping pressure on the striker and not releasing it.

Man, this was a tough one to figure out and cost me a lot of money and time to resolve.  Hopefully this will benefit others by encouraging to purchase OER parts and not from Rock Auto.  Keep in mind, Rock Auto did refund my purchase in full and paid for return shipping so a credit to them;  unfortunately they are buying substandard parts to reduce cost. The question you have to ask; is it worth the pain and substandard workmanship.

[Wallington]

Glad you got it sorted. Did the OER reuse original 3x screws? Some of the repros used metric screws just to catch people out. Outer door handle nuts were the same too.

[Transatrom]

Yes, the OER did replace the countersunk phillips head screws with rounded tops with flat top in mertric thread.  Wish I could have reused the original screws 3x that are painted instead of having to use theirs' with the star washer under the countersink.  I think the star washer is used in lieu of locktite.

Here are some more pictures.  You can really see the difference in the blue bumper and how it was installed incorrectly.

[Transatrom]

More pictures.

[Transatrom]

More pictures, the OER  blue bumper is correctly installed slanting outwards.

[Transatrom]

This Rock Auto blue bumper is slanted incorrectly, making the door very hard to open; actually holds the door shut!