so i put the meter to ohm's. put the meter wires on and just got OL, then switch meter wires and get a reading of 0.00. also put a test light to it and got a good light. thanks
I think (since i'm not familiar with your digital multimeter) OL means open line meaning no continuity. That would be correct if you were testing the two terminals connected to the brake light wiring (orange and white). When you said "switch meter wires" if you meant you tested the other two terminals where the cruise connector was connected and got a reading of 0.00 with the pedal not pressed that would be right too and that's the important one to get the cruise to work. If that DIDNT happen before you adjusted that bracket, then that's probably what your problem was.
ok, switched meter to V. got a reading of 0.15. also that 3 brown wire that goes into the brake switch comes from the connector that goes to the turn signal lever. that brown wire goes with the blue and green coming from the transducer
As far as that, I think you want to test for voltage on the pink wire and a good ground. Again, the colors are different on your car vs my 77 but voltage should come from that pink wire into the brake switch. When the pedal is not pressed it allows voltage to pass from the pink wire to the other wire(s). I only have two wires at my connector, not the extra brown one you have. I'm wondering if maybe the extra one is for resume type cruise control (which started in 1980 i think). Maybe it was easier for them to install the same harness regardless of what kind you have and just not use the extra wire if you have non-resume.
Either way, test for voltage between the pink wire and a ground. If that works, plug the plug back in on the switch and retry the test with the key on where you switch the plug on the transducer so the "engage" wire is plugged into the "hold"terminal only. Press the set button and see if you get the transducer to clunk.