Hitman's Pontiac Trans Am Forum
Trans Am Information => Restoration => Topic started by: 1981turbotransam on November 28, 2007, 02:40:05 AM
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how do i make my shaker funcitional on my 1977 trans am like the trans ams of the past like 70-72
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http://www.pontiactransamshakers.homestead.com/
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does this guy have a phone number that i can get ahold of him
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It's right there on the site....
512 - 789 - 3005
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does anyone have expirience with installing these? Im looking to get on for my 79 and would like the unique styling and feel of it.
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I think Rick has one. Not sure if it's one from the same seller or not.
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I think Rick has one. Not sure if it's one from the same seller or not.
Nope, mine is home-rolled and nothing complicated. JasonD has installed them on a couple of the cars he's done within the past 2 years, though. :-\
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I think Rick has one. Not sure if it's one from the same seller or not.
Nope, mine is home-rolled and nothing complicated. JasonD has installed them on a couple of the cars he's done within the past 2 years, though. :-\
What do you have - some kind of computer program that flashes a red light whenever someone types in your name? I swear it was only 3 minutes for you to respond to that. lmao!!!
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Nah, I hadn't logged in since last night, but had the overwhelming urge to check the site just then! ;)
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I got mine recently from Classic Industries (part# PP110) including the kickdown switch option. I'm going to start the install this weekend (assuming it ever warms up here) so I'll do pictures.
The instructions look pretty straight forward, though I'm a bit mechanically inclined.
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i put one on mine, nothing too hard. the problem is getting the flap door to stick to the shaker, mine broke loose once and i had to do it again. but everything else like wiring was cake. mine has the switch operated by the pedal, i think mounting the new bracket and switch was the hardest part cause you have to wedge yourself under your dash. Really fun to watch when its done though ;D
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i put one on mine, nothing too hard. the problem is getting the flap door to stick to the shaker, mine broke loose once and i had to do it again. but everything else like wiring was cake. mine has the switch operated by the pedal, i think mounting the new bracket and switch was the hardest part cause you have to wedge yourself under your dash. Really fun to watch when its done though ;D
As my shaker isn't the original one anyways, I was toying with using rivets to hold the flap to the shaker before I repaint it all. But I also like a stock looking car so I'll probably just use the JB Weld as the instructions say.
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I have done quite a few of them and yes, they are not too hard at all to do. Directions are easy to follow, install is simple and straight forward.
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haha, i bought my 79 t/a off of a friend of mine, and when he had the car, it had the original engine in it, and he blew the original engine because he cut open the back of the shaker scoop to let air in for more power. ---he drove the car in the rain, and the rain was sucked into the carb into the engine and killed the engine. So, when I bought the car, I took a small piece of sheet metal and sealed the back of the scoop up when I got the car re-painted. --I also put a new 403 engine in it too. haha
kinda funny story, but sucky at the same time because it killed the original motor
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Bought a 2nd scoop on eBay that already had the back plate cut out (didn't want to cut the original) and got the CI kit. As soon as the paint dries will be doing the install.
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haha, i bought my 79 t/a off of a friend of mine, and when he had the car, it had the original engine in it, and he blew the original engine because he cut open the back of the shaker scoop to let air in for more power. ---he drove the car in the rain, and the rain was sucked into the carb into the engine and killed the engine. So, when I bought the car, I took a small piece of sheet metal and sealed the back of the scoop up when I got the car re-painted. --I also put a new 403 engine in it too. haha
kinda funny story, but sucky at the same time because it killed the original motor
Had to be more to it that just the rain water. I've driven many cars as dailey drivers with open scoops, tunnel rams with the air cleaners well above the hood and just no hood at all and never had a problem with rain.
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The problem might have been that it sat in the rain, and watter went in and pooled in the carb, would want to watch out for that when setting things up making sure water can't get directly into the carb via gravity, usually an air filter can solve that. On the other hand getting small amounts of water into the intake, such as when you're driving in the rain is actually better for your engine and can give you a small boost in power and fuel economy.
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That still makes me wonder. The bottom of the air cleaner site close to an inch lower than the top of the carb. Rain would normally run out the air intake tube/heat riser before rising enough in the air cleaner to soak through the filter and enter the carb.
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Theres also PCV valves that connect to the air cleaner assembly, if a drain hole wasn't made, water may have gone into one of these, and I'm not an expert but watered down oil is probably not good for an engine.
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That's a possibility. The breather tube is a little lower than the "hump" in the air cleaner. And the filter is just fiberous rather than a dense weave or paper. If the plastic fitting that holds it were not sealed right or broken off/missing (or I have seen them installed upside down) that's water might get in there.
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That's a possibility. The breather tube is a little lower than the "hump" in the air cleaner. And the filter is just fiberous rather than a dense weave or paper. If the plastic fitting that holds it were not sealed right or broken off/missing (or I have seen them installed upside down) that's water might get in there.
Or he could have just done what I have seen a number of times... Tried use it as a submarine to go through a deep puddle. Water just doesn't compress like air ;-)
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PREPARE FOR DIVE!!!!!!
DIVE DIVE DIVE
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Got my install done finally. The instructions that come with the kit are excellent, so I only did a couple of pictures...
1.) Built a bit of a cradle to hold the shaker level...
(http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh171/Adinirac/1.jpg)
2.) Figured out the correct location for the mounting and marked the area, then spread on the JBWeld...
(http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh171/Adinirac/2.jpg)
3.) Added some weight, and because it was a little cool out ran a hairdryer on it for a while (don't tell the wife!)...
(http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh171/Adinirac/3.jpg)
4. That was it! The JBWeld sets up pretty quick, so neatness isn't easy (or necessary I think) just make sure it doesn't get into the return springs...
(http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh171/Adinirac/4.jpg)
My shaker was already cut open, so I didn't have to worry about that part. The instructions don't mention having to remove the metal mounting plate that connects the shaker to the carb, but I think it would be hard to do without removing it. As I was repainting my shaker anyways, drilling out the rivets and remounting the plate later wasn't an issue either.
All in all it was a simple process, and the whole thing works great. Again, the instructions are excellent so just following them it should be easy for any back-yard handyman/woman to do, just take your time.
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Have done alll the prep work and test fitting of the pieces. The shaker I bought off eBay was also already cut (just had to smooth out a few rough spots). As soon as the scoop gets painted can do the assembly. Thanks for the pics...!!!
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I did my painting after the install, so the new rivets would get painted. I was also less worried then about scratching the shaker during the install. As the flap is normally closed no paint got inside to touch the solenoid. I also left the flap to be painted body color, as it will be more noticible when it opens.
Just my .02
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The final product...
(Just needs a few coats of wax)
(http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh171/Adinirac/DSC00209.jpg)
(http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh171/Adinirac/DSC00210.jpg)
(http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh171/Adinirac/DSC00211.jpg)
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LOOKS GREAT...!!!
Did all the drilling and such so there isn't much left to do to put it together. I didn't separate the scoop from the metal so the rivets will get painted over anyway. The body guy wanted to do the painting first and then the assembly so that's the way it will go. Besides the car is black so the flapper is already "color matched".
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so how much was the kit
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Year One has them for $145. I think the kickdown switch is a little more.
Ames Performance has them for $169.
Just do a search on "shaker" to find them at both places...
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ok
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I gotta get me one of THESE!
Gunner
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So what's the performance of opening up the hood scoop? Does it add any horsepower or is it just for show.
KM
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5-6 hp i say
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So what's the performance of opening up the hood scoop? Does it add any horsepower or is it just for show.
KM
Well instead of dragging fresh air in though a hose, with the vents you're pulling it in directly from the nice, cold outside.
Gunner
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Probably not the increase of a ram air setup, but it seems to have a bit of extra surge when it opens up.
I agree, maybe 5-6 extra HP?
(OK, it's mainly the "coolness" factor for you and your passenger.) ;)
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I bought the kit with the kickdown assembly but ended up just putting a rocker switch under the dash so I can open and close the flap whenever I want to. Pulled the power from the ignition tab on the fuse box so if I forget to close the flap it will close when the key is turned off.
Also put the K&N flow through cover on the aircleaner so more air can enter the carb when the flap is open.
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thats a good idea