I am clear on the sub-frame... The gnd on my car goes from the pass. side head bolt to a bolt on the subframe just below the head. That's the only one I saw there but, I will check again a little more closely and resprt back. I can make a gnd to go from the auto trans. to connect to the same point on the sub-frame id that would help?
Well, the ground from the head bolt _should_ go to the chassis(body sheetmetal). Not from the head bolt to the sub frame. I'm not sure if we're having a problem with terminology here. You need a ground going from the engine to the sheet metal and from the trans to the sub frame. The ground from the tranny to the sub frame is near the oil filter if I recall correctly.
I think the bolt you are tightening behind the brake booster is the bolt for the bulkhead connector that connects the front wire harness to the main body wire harness. Not the fuse box. The bulkhead connector bolt is hard to reach with out removing the brake booster. I think it only takes 4 nuts to remove the brake booster but be very carefull to keep it supported if you're not going to disconnect the brake lines. I think you could lean it forward enough to make room to reach the bolt better. I'm pretty sure the fuse box screws straight to the sheet metal from inside the passenger compartment.
If you know you have a good ground(by ohming it out) at the head light prong and the still did not come on when you touched a wire from the pos batt cable to the other prongs on the bulb, that bulb is bad OR your battery is dead. If you suspect the battery, and don't have a spare battery sitting around, pull another car up and use the battery from that car to do the test. Just remember to run a ground from your car to the new battery.
At the same time I ohm'd out the headlights and found the bottom of the three prongs was going to grnd ( ~1-3ohms to chassis and battery). I turned on the lights and then tried the trick about taking a second wire from the headlight grnd prong to the battery and still no lights....
This bothers me a little. I can't get to my car but I have the service manual with me on vacation for reading material. Not sure what says about me. Anyway, according to the wiring schematic, one of the vertical prongs is the black ground wire. Not the bottom horizontal prong. The wire attached to the bottom(horizontal prong) is labled "BLK/GRN LT". I think that's black with a light green stripe. It's the 12v supply for the four high beam bulbs. If you have a good ground from the core support to the chassis, and touch a 12v wire to this prong all four high beam lights should come on together. By the way, you don't have to have the head light switch pulled to make this test. The ground is alwaysthere and you are supplying the 12v directly from the battery.
You said before that you measured 12v at the head light dimmer switch, the tan wire coming from the dimmer switch is the 12v wire going to the low beams. The light green wire is the 12v wire going to the driver side high beam bulb. This wire splits and goes to all four high beam bulbs. If you have 12v at the dimmer with the head light switch pulled out, you should have 12v at the bulbs. If you don't, you have an open wire between the head light switch and the light bulbs. The only connection between the two is the bulk head connector.
Again, make sure you're battery is charged.