Topic: Voltage problem .. still

[rkellerjr]

As everyone knows, TAC went poopoo and so this thread is currently lost.  Today I got out and tore into my wiring under the hood.  Here's what I've done and then I'll tell you the symptons I'm still having...

*  Replaced battery
*  Replaced battery cabes
*  Replaced battery terminals
*  Replaced alternator (internal regulator)
*  Had replacement alternator tested - tested good
*  Replaced two prong plug that goes into alternator
*  Replaced wire that goes from the alternator to the starter
*  Replaced wire from the firewall to the alternator (spliced into existing wire at a good point then ran to alternator)
*  Replaced wire from the firewall to the starter (spliced into existing wire at a good point then ran to starter)
*  Replaced wire from the firewall to the brown wire (spliced into existing wire at a good point then ran to brown plug wire)
*  Grounded engine to frame (didn't make a difference so I removed the ground)

OK, there was some great information in this previous thread that I lost and I no longer have for reference so I need ya'll's input again.  Using the dash voltmeter gauge she stays in the yellow.  I ran down to Advance and had it tested and it's coming back as if the alternator is not charging like it should.  Like a bad regulator in the alternator but when the alternator is tested, it tests fine.  Now, prior to my playing with the wires and removing tons of splices in the wiring, some were even hanging by two tiny threads, the car would and has always, started fine.  The voltage would read in the yellow.  After the car warms up to about 180 the voltage would swing up to 13.5.  When this happens the lights get bright, the power windows work well, etc.  So when the gauge reads yellow (11) it really is in the yellow as far as charging the car.  Now, even after warm up, she just stays in the yellow.  It's charging just enough to keep the battery from dieing as she continues to start fine even after running her for a while.

Another strange thing I found was that the brown wire and the red wire that come out of the plug were actually spliced together at some point.  I unspliced them and ran them separately as I thought they should be.  Whoever did actually cut out a sqaure in the rubber of the red wire and rapped the brown wire, bare, to the red wire and taped it.  When I saw that I thought, hey, that's more than likely my problem but, alas, I'm still fighting this thing.

So, what I need is someone to help me out in how I need to test this thing with a volt meter or any other ideas that might help.

It's pretty maddening after spending 4 hours on this thing running wire and it not being fixed.

Thanks for the replies guys, I'm also going to post this over at TAC in case folks aren't looking here.

[Joker (§ir£Ðragon)]

Ok, I have a couple of stupid questions.

I'm assuming the wires you're talking about connecting to the starter are the ones at the large lug (where the batt. cable connects) right?

Where on the alt is the red wire connecting? How large is this wire?

Have you hooked a test volt meter to the batt when the engine is running both cold and warm? If so, what were the readings?

[rkellerjr]

Ok, I have a couple of stupid questions.

I'm assuming the wires you're talking about connecting to the starter are the ones at the large lug (where the batt. cable connects) right?

Where on the alt is the red wire connecting? How large is this wire?

Have you hooked a test volt meter to the batt when the engine is running both cold and warm? If so, what were the readings?

Question1: yes but actually, I replaced all three wires coming from the starter.  I wanted to be thorough.

Question2: There are two red wires from the alternator, one from the plug and one from the 3/8" nut.  The nut one is 10 guage and the plug looks to be 14 guage and I spliced that into 10 guage.

Question3: I took it down to Advance and they put it on a tester.  I did not write down the numbers and I don't remember the numbers he said.  He did indicate that all numbers were way low.  His assessment, alternator or could be wiring  :shock:

[Joker (§ir£Ðragon)]

Ok, that all sounds good. They said it could be the alt, but you said that was tested and was good right?

Where does the ground from the alt go? To the frame or the block?

[rkellerjr]

Ok, that all sounds good. They said it could be the alt, but you said that was tested and was good right?

Where does the ground from the alt go? To the frame or the block?

Yes, that was tested and it tested good...

 :shock: Ground for the Alt?  There isn't one.  Only three wires coming from the Alt, two reds and the brown (from the plug) which I believe runs to the meter in the dash.

[Joker (§ir£Ðragon)]

Oops. I means ground from the batt. :oops: Meaning the neg. batt cable.
Where does it go/attach?

Actually the brown wire is the "trigger" wire which energizes the alt. field to start the charging. Without it the field won't energize until the engine is revved off idle.

[rkellerjr]

Battery negative is attached to the steering pump bracket.

[Joker (§ir£Ðragon)]

Battery negative is attached to the steering pump bracket.

Try grounding the block to the same point using similar size wire to the red one (at least).
The guy who taught me about automotive electrical taught me a rule about grounds. He said there should be good grounds connecting the battery neg., the engine block, and the frame/body.

[rkellerjr]

Battery negative is attached to the steering pump bracket.

Try grounding the block to the same point using similar size wire to the red one (at least).

This didn't make sense to me.  You want me to ground the battery to the body, not the block, then ground the block to the body in the same place?  I have an extra battery cable to do this so yes, same gauge will be used.

[Joker (§ir£Ðragon)]

Oh hell, never mind. I didn't read what you put right. (Got too much arguing and yelling going on behind me. :x

[rkellerjr]

Oh hell, never mind. I didn't read what you put right. (Got too much arguing and yelling going on behind me. :x

hehehe, careful bud, your talking to someone who doesn't know what he's doing so I have complete trust in you  :shock:

[Joker (§ir£Ðragon)]

Ok, is the bolt you have it grounded to going into the block? Is it a good ground? (Meaning free of paint or other materials that could hinder it?) Maybe run a tap into the hole to clean up the threads.

Since you have gone through all the trouble that you have to make sure all the pos. wires are good it makes me think the trouble is on the ground side.

[Joker (§ir£Ðragon)]

Oh hell, never mind. I didn't read what you put right. (Got too much arguing and yelling going on behind me. :x

hehehe, careful bud, your talking to someone who doesn't know what he's doing so I have complete trust in you  :shock:

Sorry, I was really hoping both of the girls would be going out to Aimee's ex's this weekend. Only the 12 y/o did. The 8y/o is really trying my patience. Seems that even though she doesn't have to share Mom's attention with her sister, it's not good enough.  I think this will be another good thing to come of the new shop. It will give me some place to go and get away when I need to. Even if I don't have anything to work on.

[rkellerjr]

Hmm.... well, I can move the ground to the bolt on the thermostat which I know would be a good ground.  I'll try that Larry.  I'll also put the other cable there and ground it to the body.  I'll test that tomorrow.  Appreciate you "chatting" with me on this tonight.

[Joker (§ir£Ðragon)]

Hmm.... well, I can move the ground to the bolt on the thermostat which I know would be a good ground.  I'll try that Larry.  I'll also put the other cable there and ground it to the body.  I'll test that tomorrow.  Appreciate you "chatting" with me on this tonight.

NP