Hitman's Pontiac Trans Am Forum
Trans Am Photos => Trans Am Photos => Topic started by: Striker on February 16, 2012, 02:51:41 AM
-
Here are a few pics of my 71 Trans Am I just picked up. Needs a few things, but one day it will be the car I want it to be! Just pulled it off the trailer so its really Dirty, and the interior is really dusty. I will upload more pics once I clean it!
What is the best way about getting the front bumper repaired? There are 2 big cracks on the top (see pic), then multiple little ones by the headlight bezels. The rest of the car is fine, its just the front bumper. Thanks in Advance!!
(http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/Striker248/100_2777.jpg)
(http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/Striker248/100_2778.jpg)
(http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/Striker248/100_2784.jpg)
(http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/Striker248/100_2795.jpg)
(http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/Striker248/100_2788.jpg)
(http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/Striker248/100_2790.jpg)
(http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/Striker248/100_2793.jpg)
(http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/Striker248/100_2803.jpg)
(http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/Striker248/100_2819.jpg)
(http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/Striker248/100_2815.jpg)
-
that is a sweet ride, i still love the color on your other one, as for the bumper if you can find out from previous owner who painted it for the exact paint then any quality body shop should be able to repair those cracks, the matching of paint is the hassle as panel painting is always an issue the normally will have to blend in to fenders and hood
-
Wow that thing is SWEET
-
that is a sweet ride, i still love the color on your other one, as for the bumper if you can find out from previous owner who painted it for the exact paint then any quality body shop should be able to repair those cracks, the matching of paint is the hassle as panel painting is always an issue the normally will have to blend in to fenders and hood
Thanks!! I still love the Carousel Red, but I also Love the Blue!! Would they have to repaint the whole bumper, or just "spot" fix the problem areas? Thanks!!
-
love the blue on blue ta's in any year, would like to see some engine pics. i think i like your garage better
than the car though, 8 car garage that clean is sick. i like both of the ta's, that would be a very difficult
choice if you can only keep one.
-
love the blue on blue ta's in any year, would like to see some engine pics. i think i like your garage better
than the car though, 8 car garage that clean is sick. i like both of the ta's, that would be a very difficult
choice if you can only keep one.
I have garage envy
-
Wow, nice,nice car!! I read some of your earlier posts about you picking this up and your "dilemma" with your 76. What did you decide on?
-
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x466/rogerbb/images85.jpg)
very nice!
-
HAHA Burd
-
Thanks for the comments Guys!! Here are a few more pics after it has been washed...Engine pics coming soon!
(http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/Striker248/100_2823.jpg)
(http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/Striker248/100_2830.jpg)
(http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/Striker248/100_2832.jpg)
(http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/Striker248/100_2834.jpg)
(http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/Striker248/100_2835.jpg)
(http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/Striker248/100_2836.jpg)
-
[[/quote] I have garage envy
i was going to say the same thing
-
as for spot painting the bumper i can not see clearly, but yes that would be best
-
My 73 is split in the exact same places and is now chipping. I heard that there has to be an additive added to the paint on the bumper to make it stick, because its rubber. More knowledgeable people will chime in Im sure.
-
Both are very sexy. How are you going to choose between the two when it comes to take one out for the day? Oh and NICE garage.
-
Ryan!!!!! That car is SIIIICK! Good for you man. Whether you keep one or both, you're still ahead with these beauties. Weather is looking good for the next few days around here. Taking 'em out for a spin or two?
-
Congrats :) Very nice T\A:)
-
Jeeeaaalllouusss lol. Two awesome cars there man.
-
seeing them side by side i have to go with the blue, that is the best shade of blue to ever grace a car. plus
i love the marker lights in the front grill on the 71 plus honeycombs are the best.
i would miss the chicken though big time.
-
That 71 is freaking awesome. One of the prettiest T/A's you can buy. You should be very proud of it. And your 76
-
Nice 1, Big Fan of these, luv the color Combo,
only thing missing is the Stick ::)
-
guess you choose to keep the 71, or just testing the waters with the 76 which is very nice by the way.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1976-Pontiac-Trans-Am-Carousel-Red-400-T-A-/290670241964?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item43ad4be8ac
-
Ryan!!!!! That car is SIIIICK! Good for you man. Whether you keep one or both, you're still ahead with these beauties. Weather is looking good for the next few days around here. Taking 'em out for a spin or two?
Thanks Tommy! I am going to get plates on the 71 tmrw.
-
seeing them side by side i have to go with the blue, that is the best shade of blue to ever grace a car. plus
i love the marker lights in the front grill on the 71 plus honeycombs are the best.
i would miss the chicken though big time.
Thanks for the Compliments!! I love both cars!! I love the Honeycomb look on the 71 too. It Originally came With Ralley wheels. He gave me both sets. Ralleys are a little rough, Honeycombs are perfect! And Yes, I am just testing the waters, although I am getting lots of interest. We will see what Happens!!
-
As Promised here are a few engine pics. I need to clean up some odds and ends but it is A great starting point!
(http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/Striker248/100_2854.jpg)
(http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/Striker248/100_2843.jpg)
(http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/Striker248/100_2845.jpg)
(http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/Striker248/100_2846.jpg)
(http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/Striker248/100_2848.jpg)
-
I love how clean these cars are, no pin stripes, no crazy paint, a simple stripe down the middle and a small Trans Am on the fender. It just is so simple....till you step on the gas!
-
your garage has a small collection of cars, i see an R/T and i think i see a late model camaro, i would keep both t/a's
-
I love how clean these cars are, no pin stripes, no crazy paint, a simple stripe down the middle and a small Trans Am on the fender. It just is so simple....till you step on the gas!
Yeah. The later T/A's Had to get flashier to compensate the loss of performance.
-
Gorgeous car! Congrats!
-
::) ::) ::)
-
Nice snow blowers too.
-
Whoa...nice, very nice
-
Congratulations :) That is one rare and desirable car you have.
-
Poor guy had an electrical fire in it over the weekend. Thankfully, he said it stayed contained behind the dash.
-
You need to post a vid of it driving. I want to see the scoop open lol
-
Poor guy had an electrical fire in it over the weekend. Thankfully, he said it stayed contained behind the dash.
on the 71? damn that is not cool, i hope it and him are okay
-
Poor guy had an electrical fire in it over the weekend. Thankfully, he said it stayed contained behind the dash.
Very Lucky it was contained. The flames were almost to the headliner coming from the dash. Thankfully I had 4 Extinguishers or the car would have been a total loss. The FD took 15 min to get there. It was out 5 min before they arrived.
You need to post a vid of it driving. I want to see the scoop open lol
Thats not going to be for a little while. :( have to tow it into a shop in the next week or 2
-
a
-
That really sucks man :( any idea what caused it?
-
That really sucks man :( any idea what caused it?
Somewhere behind the dash. Looked really bad with all the "Dust" from the extinguishers but I vaccummed and sprayed the whole interior and it looks Presentable now. Carpet has melted platic on it, All ductwork is gone, as well as windshield, some guages are melted, and all the wiring behind dash. I assume the motor for the heat and AC is gone too. We will have to see. Who knows how long it will be before I can drive it.
-
Man that's sad. At least it was saved.
-
i feel really bad about that Ryan you have a beautiful car and i am sure you will take great care of it
-
i feel really bad about that Ryan you have a beautiful car and i am sure you will take great care of it
Thanks man! It is still a Beautiful car. Its been in garage with doors open and fans trying to get rid of the smell. All in all I was pretty lucky it was not worse. Good new is by the Spring/Summer It will be all fixed and on the road where it belongs! I could not stand to see the interior in that condition so I had to clean it up the best i could. It was def one of the worst days I have had in a while.
-
A Nightmare of a day, but your ok and the car can be fixed. Hope to see it sometime this summer.
-
Now if I could only find (afford) one like that. I would love to a matched pair.
That is truly a very nice Bird!!!!!!!!!
-
Sorry to hear about the car. M&H Wiring would be a suggested company to get a replacement harness from. Ames/Classic/etc all get their harnesses from M&H so go direct to the source and save.
Any idea what happened besides it being an electrical fire? Just old wiring or something??
-
Sorry to hear about the car. M&H Wiring would be a suggested company to get a replacement harness from. Ames/Classic/etc all get their harnesses from M&H so go direct to the source and save.
Any idea what happened besides it being an electrical fire? Just old wiring or something??
Thanks for the info Brian! I pulled everything from the dash, and it looks like it started somehwere near the Cig lighter. The wires to the lighter were bare, and melted. I won't really know until the shop takes a look at it and tells me what they think.
Norwood and Mr71TransAm, You both have VERY Nice Cars! I am so proud to have the same year you do! I really love the 70-74 Birds! Mine goes in on March 5 to get repaired, and then I will be out enjoying it everyday I can!
-
Good luck on the repair job, beautiful car, hope you get it back on the street soon
-
Good luck on the repair job, beautiful car, hope you get it back on the street soon
Thanks! It goes into the shop Either Thursday or Friday this week because I am still waiting on some parts. There is a lot of damage, but I should have it back in a few weeks. Hopefully Before the end of the month.
-
did you contact the PO about the situation and see if they had any prior knowledge of the problem. maybe just odd timing for it to happen just after you got it. either way you have a good perspective on it and you are getting it fixed.
-
did you contact the PO about the situation and see if they had any prior knowledge of the problem. maybe just odd timing for it to happen just after you got it. either way you have a good perspective on it and you are getting it fixed.
I did Call him after it happened, and he said he could not think of anything that could have caused it. I did Take it out the day before, and everything seemed to work perfectly. After pulling the pieces apart, I said it looked like it started with the cig lighter wiring. After having the shop look at it and give estimate, he agrees with me. I dont think he ever ran anything off the Cig lighter, and I was using a Radar detector, so maybe it was just a short? IDK, but it will be fixed soon! The Whole Dash needs to be replaced due to melted brackets for the guages. There is a significant amount of damage behind the dash. The Flames were coming out the Defrost Vents and almost as high as the headliner. Good thing I had 3 Fire Extinguishers, or the car would have been a loss. All the Guages were Sent off to Redline for Restoration. Have all the the Ductwork here (thanks Blurr), and have windshield, Carpet, and other electronics still on order. It goes into the shop Friday....on a flatbed :(
-
Well Guys, Here is an update after the fire repair...
Picked the car up Monday from the shop...repair done. Well the same night, Throttle stuck wide open, had to shut car off to stop it. Took it back Tuesday. Got it back yesterday, and took it out for about 200 miles. No Problems. Sounds good, drives even better.
Today, took it out for 10 min, jumped on it, and White smoke everywhere from engine and tailpipes. Shut car off and coasted to shoulder. Got it towed back to shop, (around 515) they waited for me to get there, and they looked at it real quick. Checked Coolant, Full. Started car for a sec, sounds great, but blowing Smoke like crazy. Owner says it looks like trans fluid out the pipes.
He says hopefully its some kind of modulator, which would be a quick, cheap, easy fix. He says thats really the only way for trans fluid to enter the engine??
I swear this car is Possessed, and I have had about enough of it.
-
Oh good LORD................Is there no end of bad things that can happen to people this year?
Gunner
-
If this keeps up, it sounds like we might get our "orange" 76's together after all!
-
White smoke is water.
Blue smoke is an oil of some sort.
Black smoke is carbon (Fuel rich).
Green smoke makes people smile.
White smoke and transmission ???
Transmission and tail pipe ??
-
White smoke is water.
Blue smoke is an oil of some sort.
Black smoke is carbon (Fuel rich).
Green smoke makes people smile.
White smoke and transmission ???
Transmission and tail pipe ??
It was Def White Smoke, and there was a LOT. I could not see any cars behind me until they came through the smoke. Even Pulled over, and engine off for 3-4 min, there was still a decent amt of smoke coming from the tailpipes. He said it could be trans fluid if some sort of modulator failed. I really have no idea, all I know is that this car is driving me insane. He stuck his finger in the pipes and said it was "oily". Idk, but I guess I will know more tmrw.
-
If this keeps up, it sounds like we might get our "orange" 76's together after all!
That may very well happen Tommy. Guess I am not meant to have my "dream Car" (70-74) style :(
Oh good LORD................Is there no end of bad things that can happen to people this year?
Gunner
It Seems like a lot of people are having a rough start to the year. Hopefully things turn around quickly. I can't do this for another 8 months.
-
Which God did you make mad? haha Seems like the year of "issues"
-
bad trans mod will pull fluid into the intake and smoke white like crazy. Had that a few years back and thought the car was on fire. Not funny especially for you!
-
^^^^ yes!
-
bad trans mod will pull fluid into the intake and smoke white like crazy. Had that a few years back and thought the car was on fire. Not funny especially for you!
Thats what the shop said, so I am hoping thats what it is. And Yes, I have never seen so much smoke in my life. I jumped out with a fire extinguisher and opened the hood ready to spray. Very Scary especially on interstate and knowing what this car has been through already.
Which God did you make mad? haha Seems like the year of "issues"
I am wondering the same thing. I will not give up on this car yet. I love this style, and I will get it working right.....one day
-
Finally getting some good news on the car. It was A Bad Modulator. He already has it replaced and ran it, total cost $30. Smoke is gone, and runs strong. He is going to keep the car over the weekend and really look at some other areas of the engine bay so I can finally enjoy the car for more than 1 day before something else breaks.
Im gonna dump a gallon of Holy water on this thing when i get it back ;)
-
Finally getting some good news on the car. It was A Bad Modulator. He already has it replaced and ran it, total cost $30. Smoke is gone, and runs strong. He is going to keep the car over the weekend and really look at some other areas of the engine bay so I can finally enjoy the car for more than 1 day before something else breaks.
Im gonna dump a gallon of Holy water on this thing when i get it back ;)
I'm gonna unplug the cigarette ligher when I get mine built..........IF I ever get it done...........
Gunner
-
Keep with it ...this car will be worth it in the end
-
Keep with it ...this car will be worth it in the end
I Know it will! The 70-73 Style has always been my favorite, and Loved the Lucerne Blue with White the most. I bought my 76 last year, because at 22 I could not afford a car like this. I never gave up looking for a way to get one, and This is/was my dream car, So I will stick with it as long as it takes. Thanks for the Support!!
-
Good to hear it was worked out. Just remember..
(http://i1144.photobucket.com/albums/o489/nworks1/1901332292769055161.jpg)
;D :D
-
Which God did you make mad? haha Seems like the year of "issues"
Same one I did, I guess...........
Gunner
-
White smoke is water.
Blue smoke is an oil of some sort.
Black smoke is carbon (Fuel rich).
Green smoke makes people smile.
White smoke and transmission ???
Transmission and tail pipe ??
white smoke is definitly trans fluid and yes when the diaphram goes bad in the modulator it sucks tranny fluid into the engine, water is STEAM and looks like white smoke but disapates very quickly, good news is the valves and piston tops are probably clean now. I am glad it is back on the road for you
-
Got one in the stash, hard to find delco's.
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x466/rogerbb/carlyscamera1130.jpg)
-
What don't you have? ::)
-
When this guy needs parts for his 78 TA, he buy's them off of me.
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x466/rogerbb/best-spokesman-the-most-interesting-man-in-the-world-dos-equis.png)
-
White smoke is water.
Blue smoke is an oil of some sort.
Black smoke is carbon (Fuel rich).
Green smoke makes people smile.
White smoke and transmission ???
Transmission and tail pipe ??
white smoke is definitly trans fluid and yes when the diaphram goes bad in the modulator it sucks tranny fluid into the engine, water is STEAM and looks like white smoke but disapates very quickly, good news is the valves and piston tops are probably clean now. I am glad it is back on the road for you
Thanks man! I should be getting it back sometime tmrw!!
When this guy needs parts for his 78 TA, he buy's them off of me.
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x466/rogerbb/best-spokesman-the-most-interesting-man-in-the-world-dos-equis.png)
Haha Thats Awesome Burd!
-
Just got the car back today. Was a Bad modulator. He also said my Exhaust manifold gasket was bad, so that was replaced as well. Took it out for a few hours and everything seemed fine again. Hopefully this is it for repairs. Wish me luck :)
-
good luck
-
Well, The days of my 71 may be coming to an end. There is something about this car that is "unfixable". Had the car out again last night with no problems. Then today, once again merged on the Expressway, and Nothing but white smoke...trans Fluid again. The modulator was just replaced yesterday. It seems the problems arise when merging on, at high RPMs. My car runs about 3000 at 55 and when mergng at a normal rate I was around 4000-4500 RPM and then smoke.
After this mechanic said be careful but you could drive home if not smoking at Low RPM, so I got off and nursed it home up to 2500 rpm and there was not a single puff of smoke. I am baffled about this. Any ideas what I should do?
I am starting to think this car Really is Possessed. Anyone see Christine?
-
Are you sure it is trans fluid and not antifreeze/water? Does the engine oil look ok, is there any traces of milkiness? If the modulator was leaking badly there could still be traces in the muffler that are burning off especially during higher rpm and forced out heavier with increased exhaust pressure.I would think the trans fluid would be more blue though.
-
Sorry to hear man. Wish i had a solution for you. Hang in there, you'll get it figured out.
-
Wow man. That really sucks. Stick with it. You'll figure it out. Don't let this bring you down.
-
Where is the vacuum to the modulator coming from. Could high RPM's increase vacuum in such a manner that it pops the modulator. Try changing the source of the vacuum if there is a port that doesnt produce as much vacuum.
Im not sure if thats an option. But was a thought I wanted to share.
-
Don't give up, I did that with one of my cars I thought I had tried everything and it was a pushrod tip. It was broken but still sitting on the pushrod so I couldnt get an accurate adjustment. Talk about kicking myself in the A$$!
-
Are you sure it is trans fluid and not antifreeze/water? Does the engine oil look ok, is there any traces of milkiness? If the modulator was leaking badly there could still be traces in the muffler that are burning off especially during higher rpm and forced out heavier with increased exhaust pressure.I would think the trans fluid would be more blue though.
Yeah, It is def Trans Fluid. After the modulator was replaced, I drove it locally for about 50 miles, then jumped on expressway, and Bam Same result. I wold assume it would have all burned off long before I took it back on the expressway?
Engine Oil is VEry Clean, and full. Coolant is Full as well. Trans was a 1/2 qt low. This happened after 6pm, so I will be calling the shop again this morning. I am getting sick of every time I take it out, something else breaks.
-
After you get the car home and let it sit a few days. Do you have any fluid pooling under the car. If so what is it transmission or coolant?
I’ve had both types with my 71 Trans Am. The transmission leak looked like it was leaking around the Modulator, but in fact it turned out to be the transmission cooling lines. They were actually leaking where the lines connected to the transmission. Over time they had gotten a little lose. Are you losing transmission fluid?
The coolant leak was where the heater hose connects to the passenger side head. it would only start to leak after the car warmed up and the pressure built-up. Is your radiator level dropping? Are you losing coolant?
-
After you get the car home and let it sit a few days. Do you have any fluid pooling under the car. If so what is it transmission or coolant?
I’ve had both types with my 71 Trans Am. The transmission leak looked like it was leaking around the Modulator, but in fact it turned out to be the transmission cooling lines. They were actually leaking where the lines connected to the transmission. Over time they had gotten a little lose. Are you losing transmission fluid?
The coolant leak was where the heater hose connects to the passenger side head. it would only start to leak after the car warmed up and the pressure built-up. Is your radiator level dropping? Are you losing coolant?
When the car Sits, it does not leak any fluid at all. The Radiator is full, but the trans fluid was a little low only after it smoked. After the car smoked out, it drove home fine with no smoke, but I kept it under 2500 RPM. Is there another part the would be pulling the trans fluid through the exhaust manifold? Its def coming from the tailpipes. Thanks for the response, and help! I really want to get this car running.
-
The vacuum line is pulling the fluid from the modulator through the vacuum line and into the intake. Depending on where your port is on the intake its probably sucking it into cylinder #8 and burning the fluid. Making it smoke like a "Texas Skeeter Killer"
It happens. Theres only a few reasons it can happen
-
Where is the vacuum to the modulator coming from. Could high RPM's increase vacuum in such a manner that it pops the modulator. Try changing the source of the vacuum if there is a port that doesnt produce as much vacuum.
Im not sure if thats an option. But was a thought I wanted to share.
I was wondering something along these lines, too.
Like too much vacuum collapse a diaphragm?
-
If original fluid burnt off and it is indeed trans fluid going in the exhaust still, then yes it has to be pulling fluid past the modulator.
-
If the problem is the modulator, then there will be red transmission fluid in the line from the modulator to the manifold. Pull the line. Based on the volume of smoke you describe, if it isn't dripping trans fluid, the modulator is probably not the problem. Also, if the diaphram is ruptured, the transmission would not shift.
If the test above points away from the modulator, I would do a compression test on all 8 cylinders. As mentioned, keep checking the oil looking fro milkiness, choclate milky looking stuff, etc...
Great car.... it's just testing you. Show it who wears the britches!
-
Fluid doesnt run uphill from the modulator to the intake on its own. needs vacuum to get it there. Dont believe for a second that lack of visible evidence (fluid dripping from line) will eliminate the modulator.
-
Agree fluid won't run up hill... without vacuum... But there would be vacuum if the diaphram is ruptured and fluid can most certainly be "sucked uphill" (see also "drinking straw")....
It would take a lot of oil to make as much smoke as he's talking about, and the possibility of rupturing two modulator diaphrams in a row without seeing any shifting problem seems like a very low probability to me.
-
If the engine isnt running there will be no vacuum is what I was saying. So as soon as you shut off the engine any fluid in the line will run back down and into the modulator leaving only residue on the inside of the vacuum line. NOT PINTS!
How about take two seconds and explain what you are really trying to say with the see drinking straw comment!
You are sadly mistaken if you think it takes a lot of transmission fluid to make smoke. Try it. We used to start fires with it before EPA regs were invented. Signs of a mispent youth. ;D
-
If the problem is the modulator, then there will be red transmission fluid in the line from the modulator to the manifold. Pull the line. Based on the volume of smoke you describe, if it isn't dripping trans fluid, the modulator is probably not the problem. Also, if the diaphram is ruptured, the transmission would not shift.
If the test above points away from the modulator, I would do a compression test on all 8 cylinders. As mentioned, keep checking the oil looking fro milkiness, choclate milky looking stuff, etc...
Great car.... it's just testing you. Show it who wears the britches!
Thanks for the input! I know I am being tested, but I will Eventually win. This is the car I had my heart set on for a long time. The oil looks great as of right now. Not low, and very clean.
If the engine isnt running there will be no vacuum is what I was saying. So as soon as you shut off the engine any fluid in the line will run back down and into the modulator leaving only residue on the inside of the vacuum line. NOT PINTS!
How about take two seconds and explain what you are really trying to say with the see drinking straw comment!
You are sadly mistaken if you think it takes a lot of transmission fluid to make smoke. Try it. We used to start fires with it before EPA regs were invented. Signs of a mispent youth. ;D
The first time there was a TON of smoke. The second time was Much much less, and I got a little bit further. I called the shop, and he said there may have been some "unburnt" fluid on the bottom of maifold that was not burning off driving locally because it never got hot enough. He said at the higher rpm, it gets hotter so it may burn the rest off. I was able to drive it back home at 40-45 mph w no more smoke. We will see what happens. What do you think about his theory?
Thanks
-
Seems thats what was said on the board here.....
-
I can buy that there is transmission fluid in the manifold that hasn’t gone into the engine yet…. but it should clear up pretty quickly….. and hopefully it will…
Old timer mechanics used to intentionally slowly pour transmission fluid into the carburetor of a running engine under the theory that it would remove carbon, free stuck rings, etc. I have seen it done more than once. While I have doubts about how much good it actually does, it did give me a very clear idea of how much transmission fluid correlates to how much smoke. I agree that we are likely talking spoonfuls or so and not pints.
My thinking behind the drinking straw comment (no offense meant BTW) is this…. Normal manifold vacuum at idle is about 18 inches of mercury or so… that is equivalent to a water column of about 245 inches… and oil is lighter than water, so it is safe to say that an engine at idle can draw transmission fluid over 245 inches up a tube…. That isn’t my theory… that is just plain physics…
As far as dripping vs. residual oil in the modulator line… if there is ANY oil then a failed modulator is plausible. If you draw several spoonfuls of oil through the line, it will coat the inside of the line and settle in any low spots, etc. It is going to be a good while until there is no trace at all….
Sorry for the Hi-jack….
-
As I said earlier, you may just have had a large amount that was still in the muffler and didn't realize until the RPMs were high creating more heat and pressure causing it to burn hotter and push the smoke out harder.A good mechanic should have no problems telling you what the issue is. I have seen similar issues with bad headgaskets that pushed antifreeze in the muffler.After the repair it took a little while to burn and push out. Under hard acceleration it was a cloud of white until it eventually burnt out.Also on turbo engines, sometimes the turbo goes bad and pushes oil in the exhaust and it takes a while to burn out once repaired.
-
Okay Striker, here is the deal yes what you have is tranny fluid as it is the only fluid in your car that will give as much white smoke as you describe, if it were coolant it would disepate immediately and if it were oil it would not be as much smoke as you describe, pull the vacuum line off the modulator and see if you have fluid in the line as it would be much more visible at the modulator then the manifold, and yes it could be a defect as who knows how long that modulator has sat on a shelf and it does have a rubber diaphram as for the possession of the car nahhh it is 40 years old and the parts you buy for it are quite old as well even though new in box have been in box a while, how many vac mods do you think napa sold last year, not many and yes there could be quite a bit of burn off left so if the mod is good and no fluid in the line at the tranny then take it on a good road trip and blow it out a bit. What you said about high rpms smoke and mid rpms no smoke does not jive because if the mod was leaking it is leaking all the time and not only under high rpms, check the line and let me know
-
Looks like Joe is wanting to walk you through the rest of the way so i'm going to unsubscribe. I'm sure you two can get it figured out from here.
-
I can buy that there is transmission fluid in the manifold that hasn’t gone into the engine yet…. but it should clear up pretty quickly….. and hopefully it will…
Old timer mechanics used to intentionally slowly pour transmission fluid into the carburetor of a running engine under the theory that it would remove carbon, free stuck rings, etc. I have seen it done more than once. While I have doubts about how much good it actually does, it did give me a very clear idea of how much transmission fluid correlates to how much smoke. I agree that we are likely talking spoonfuls or so and not pints.
My thinking behind the drinking straw comment (no offense meant BTW) is this…. Normal manifold vacuum at idle is about 18 inches of mercury or so… that is equivalent to a water column of about 245 inches… and oil is lighter than water, so it is safe to say that an engine at idle can draw transmission fluid over 245 inches up a tube…. That isn’t my theory… that is just plain physics…
As far as dripping vs. residual oil in the modulator line… if there is ANY oil then a failed modulator is plausible. If you draw several spoonfuls of oil through the line, it will coat the inside of the line and settle in any low spots, etc. It is going to be a good while until there is no trace at all….
Sorry for the Hi-jack….
Don't be sorry for anything. Everything I read has been relevent. Thanks for the Feedback and suggestions. I am new to this, so trust me, everything helps :)
Okay Striker, here is the deal yes what you have is tranny fluid as it is the only fluid in your car that will give as much white smoke as you describe, if it were coolant it would disepate immediately and if it were oil it would not be as much smoke as you describe, pull the vacuum line off the modulator and see if you have fluid in the line as it would be much more visible at the modulator then the manifold, and yes it could be a defect as who knows how long that modulator has sat on a shelf and it does have a rubber diaphram as for the possession of the car nahhh it is 40 years old and the parts you buy for it are quite old as well even though new in box have been in box a while, how many vac mods do you think napa sold last year, not many and yes there could be quite a bit of burn off left so if the mod is good and no fluid in the line at the tranny then take it on a good road trip and blow it out a bit. What you said about high rpms smoke and mid rpms no smoke does not jive because if the mod was leaking it is leaking all the time and not only under high rpms, check the line and let me know
Thanks to Everyone for the Comments/feedback!! I will look at the lines tmrw afternoon, and then maybe take it on a little drive and see what happens.
-
I can buy that there is transmission fluid in the manifold that hasn’t gone into the engine yet…. but it should clear up pretty quickly….. and hopefully it will…
Old timer mechanics used to intentionally slowly pour transmission fluid into the carburetor of a running engine under the theory that it would remove carbon, free stuck rings, etc. I have seen it done more than once. While I have doubts about how much good it actually does, it did give me a very clear idea of how much transmission fluid correlates to how much smoke. I agree that we are likely talking spoonfuls or so and not pints.
My thinking behind the drinking straw comment (no offense meant BTW) is this…. Normal manifold vacuum at idle is about 18 inches of mercury or so… that is equivalent to a water column of about 245 inches… and oil is lighter than water, so it is safe to say that an engine at idle can draw transmission fluid over 245 inches up a tube…. That isn’t my theory… that is just plain physics…
As far as dripping vs. residual oil in the modulator line… if there is ANY oil then a failed modulator is plausible. If you draw several spoonfuls of oil through the line, it will coat the inside of the line and settle in any low spots, etc. It is going to be a good while until there is no trace at all….
Sorry for the Hi-jack….
very well put as i stated way back you will get loads of smoke from a small amount, may ne wise to replace the vac line to see if the residue returns or if the shop you used has any knowledge they can check the mod with a vac pump
-
Ok, So I checked the vaccum lines, and they are cean with no oil or resdue. I took the car out and runs fine with no smoke a t3500 RPM. Once you get to 4000 and you let off, thats when it smokes. I even ran up to 4700 RPM with no smoke until i let off the gas, On the underside of car, there is burnt fluid dripping from muffler, which never leaked anyting prior. There is also Trans fluid coating the exterior of pipes around the clamps and gas tank. Trans Fluid is still full, and clean. If there is a pool of fluid in the muffler, wouldn't it smoke all the time and not just on deceleration from a high speed?
-
Does the smoke look blue at all. Are you running regular oil or synthetic in the motor. What is the engine oil level.You could be pulling oil through the valve seals at high RPM. Do you have a PCV valve hooked up and does it seem to be working.
-
Does the smoke look blue at all. Are you running regular oil or synthetic in the motor. What is the engine oil level.You could be pulling oil through the valve seals at high RPM. Do you have a PCV valve hooked up and does it seem to be working.
The smoke does not look blue at all. I had my dad following me to see if the smoke got any better. It is def white smoke. The oil level is full, and very very clean. The trans Fluid is still full as well. When the modulator was replaced, the shop said he added a qt of trans fluid, so there was quite a bit that was lost the first time. Since Monday, there has not been any loss of trans fluid.
-
Here are some pics of what the Exhaust looks like now. There is a small drip of burnt fluid now by the muffler. None of the fluid on the pipes, or the drip was there before the modulator went the first time last week.
(http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/Striker248/2012-04-12105641.jpg)
(http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/Striker248/2012-04-12105653.jpg)
(http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/Striker248/2012-04-12105729.jpg)
(http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/Striker248/2012-04-12105903.jpg)
-
Is it condensation in the exhaust ? Black being carbon from running a little rich, which when you let off the gas it'll cause a rich condition even more so causing a little smoke, go through the carb, I'm sure it'll help
-
Is it condensation in the exhaust ? Black being carbon from running a little rich, which when you let off the gas it'll cause a rich condition even more so causing a little smoke, go through the carb, I'm sure it'll help
I am pretty sure its not condesation, because it def had the smell of burning fluid. My dad also lost sight of the car because the smoke was soo thick
-
If you are sure it is trans fluid dripping from the muffler then probably there is still residual fluid in the exhaust system that hasn't burnt off.
-
I doubt it's Trans fluid, at 4000 rpm the heat produced I. The headers/manifolds alone would burn it, if it's all the way back to your muffler then it is more likely to have poured a qt in the exhaust system on an uphill slope
-
I doubt it's Trans fluid, at 4000 rpm the heat produced I. The headers/manifolds alone would burn it, if it's all the way back to your muffler then it is more likely to have poured a qt in the exhaust system on an uphill slope
There is def trans fluid coating the exterior of the muffler in the pictures. But for some reason, it only smokes when letting off the throttle at 3500 RPM and higher. The vac lines to the modulator are clean as well.
I guess I am 99% sure there is fluid in the muffler, but idk why it wouldnt smoke when I accelerate? Only smokes on deceleration?
-
Didn't you just buy this car? How long did it sit? How long had the person you bought it from owned it? How many miles have you driven the car since you bought it. Was it hard to start or smoke any on the first start ups?
Is it possible the previous owners/owners poured something in the cylinders to prevent the engine from seizing while in storage and it has now collected in the lowest part of the exhaust? Lets put the modulator to bed. place an inline fuel filter between the modulator and vacuum connection on the intake. If the modulator is being comprised the see through inline filter will have trans fluid in it. Also, check # 8 spark plug and tell me if it is wet! No fluid.... next test!
-
Didn't you just buy this car? How long did it sit? How long had the person you bought it from owned it? How many miles have you driven the car since you bought it. Was it hard to start or smoke any on the first start ups?
Is it possible the previous owners/owners poured something in the cylinders to prevent the engine from seizing while in storage and it has now collected in the lowest part of the exhaust? Lets put the modulator to bed. place an inline fuel filter between the modulator and vacuum connection on the intake. If the modulator is being comprised the see through inline filter will have trans fluid in it. Also, check # 8 spark plug and tell me if it is wet! No fluid.... next test!
Yes, I bought the car Feb 15th, and drove it for 1-2 days before the fire. Then was in the shop for 4-5 weeks, and just got it back Last monday, and 2 days later the first smoke started.
The owner had it sitting all winter before I bought it, so I would say about 4-5 months.
No smoke on startups, and is not hard to start. The total miles ive driven is probably around 300-400.
I will check spark plug #8 when I get home later tonight! Thanks!!!
-
OK, Spark Plug #8 is Dry.
-
Well if #8 is dry, no fluid levels are getting low and the trans is shifting normally I'd clean up everything underneath and take it for a long interstate drive. Id also keep a close check on gauges and stop occasionaly to check trans fluid levels. It may just be leftover from the modulator incident. But it sure looked like a lot of fluid.
-
Clean the muffler out too. Don't want to pollute the air. :)
-
Well if #8 is dry, no fluid levels are getting low and the trans is shifting normally I'd clean up everything underneath and take it for a long interstate drive. Id also keep a close check on gauges and stop occasionaly to check trans fluid levels. It may just be leftover from the modulator incident. But it sure looked like a lot of fluid.
I drilled a little hole in the muffler, but nothing seemed to come out yet. Maybe once I start the car, or drive it a few min. I think I will take it on a little drive today, and Keep Jumping on it and see if it gets any better. Trans Shifts fine, fluids are good, and engine sounds great.
The fluid that was "leaking" by the muffler is burnt black fluid, and on the inside of the tailpipes, there is a VERY THICK coating of black burnt fluid, so hopefully it just burns off and goes away.
-
i bet you are just running rich, and the black "fluid" is condensation buildup.... anywhere in the exhaust you are leaking is going to be an exhaust leak....
-
i bet you are just running rich, and the black "fluid" is condensation buildup.... anywhere in the exhaust you are leaking is going to be an exhaust leak....
I drilled a little hole in the muffler and took the car out and Ran it HARD 9 passes up to 85mph. It smoked 3 times, where as before it would be every time. It also appeared to be less smoke. After the car sat, there was def a little burnt fluid drip from the muffler, so I think (HOPE) it is just pooled in the muffler and getting better.
All my fluid levels are still clean and full, and I also put a "filter" in the vac and no trans fluid appears to be on it. :)
We willl see what happens over the Weekend!! Thanks to everyone for the replys!
-
lol yeah looks rich to me. LET ME THINK ABOUT THAT, NO
-
Y'all are being stupid, think about it, when have you EVER heard of an oil going to the muffler in the exhaust system, unless you poured a bottle in it and we're parked on a steep grade, or pumped straight fluid through the engine WITHOUT it running which would cause more damage than move fluid then it's impossible!
-
Y'all are being stupid, think about it, when have you EVER heard of an oil going to the muffler in the exhaust system, unless you poured a bottle in it and we're parked on a steep grade, or pumped straight fluid through the engine WITHOUT it running which would cause more damage than move fluid then it's impossible!
just look at the pic and anyone can see it is not carbon nor condensation, sorry
-
The first time there was smoke, my modulator def went bad, so that would be the reason the fluid got into the exhaust. My mechanic replaced it and showed me the defective piece. I am taking my car to another well respected mechanic about 40 min away tmrw, so I hope to have more info then. Thanks!!!
-
Y'all are being stupid, think about it, when have you EVER heard of an oil going to the muffler in the exhaust system, unless you poured a bottle in it and we're parked on a steep grade, or pumped straight fluid through the engine WITHOUT it running which would cause more damage than move fluid then it's impossible!
just look at the pic and anyone can see it is not carbon nor condensation, sorry
Looks like the blinker fluid dripped into the muffler causing the muffler bearig to malfunction. This would explain the pic of muffler and the smoking only at deceleration.
-
Well if #8 is dry, no fluid levels are getting low and the trans is shifting normally I'd clean up everything underneath and take it for a long interstate drive. Id also keep a close check on gauges and stop occasionaly to check trans fluid levels. It may just be leftover from the modulator incident. But it sure looked like a lot of fluid.
Thanks Tin. I did Try the Filter like you suggested and it was clean. The smoke def got thinner, and eventually went away with the filter on though. I think it was you earlier who said maybe there was too much Vac, which could suck some fluid through the line? I am pretty sure the filter is "restricting" a little suction, but could that be restricting it enough to not suck the fluid through?
If so, is there a way to adjust how much suction is in the lines?
Please forgive me for my arrogance. I am new to this, and trying to learn as I go. Thanks
Ryan
-
the vac mod requires direct manifold vacuum, needs vacuum at idle
-
and yes it may have dripped from the blinker and onto the muff bearing then slung around
-
and yes it may have dripped from the blinker and onto the muff bearing then slung around
You need to echo check the exhaust. Yell into the tail pipe as loud as you can. If you get an echo back the muffler bearing definatly bad. The muffler bearing is usually worn by trans fluid
-
yup or condensation
-
yup or condensation
Joe thats depends, the old RTY-876 bearings were prone to condensation and rusted bad, the new QRF-90876 was redesigned to solve this issue, sadly the problem with trans fluid was never corrected.
-
yup or condensation
Joe thats depends, the old RTY-876 bearings were prone to condensation and rusted bad, the new QRF-90876 was redesigned to solve this issue, sadly the problem with trans fluid was never corrected.
yes but not quite, the new revised OU812 bearing is water and oil resistant
-
yup or condensation
Joe thats depends, the old RTY-876 bearings were prone to condensation and rusted bad, the new QRF-90876 was redesigned to solve this issue, sadly the problem with trans fluid was never corrected.
Wow...I thought I was the only one who has done my homework on muffler bearings. I upgraded mine as soon as I bought my car. 4speed helps keep them clear of the danger from tranny fluid.
-
thats a good point
-
trying to find a fix for the blinker fluid though. Now that they don't use asbestos in the blinker gasket material the fluid will eventually eat through it. :(
-
trying to find a fix for the blinker fluid though. Now that they don't use asbestos in the blinker gasket material the fluid will eventually eat through it. :(
Do you have the green or clear fluid?
-
trying to find a fix for the blinker fluid though. Now that they don't use asbestos in the blinker gasket material the fluid will eventually eat through it. :(
Do you have the green or clear fluid?
Hmm. Can't really tell. It's looks dirty. Not sure what it is supposed to be.
-
oh ok.. oil in the exhaust... heres your solution..... use some form of oil absorber... sand, kitty litter, sawdust, and with the engine running at 4500 rpm where it occurs, dump a 5lb bag in slowly to the carburetor... as its going through your exhaust system itll grab any oil and shoot out the exhaust.... then your problem is solved! and make sure you get the stuff thats not gonna cause wear to the muffler bearing....
-
oh ok.. oil in the exhaust... heres your solution..... use some form of oil absorber... sand, kitty litter, sawdust, and with the engine running at 4500 rpm where it occurs, dump a 5lb bag in slowly to the carburetor... as its going through your exhaust system itll grab any oil and shoot out the exhaust.... then your problem is solved! and make sure you get the stuff thats not gonna cause wear to the muffler bearing....
I prefer sand, then if I need a part cleaned I put it behind the tail pipe and it cleans it good as new as the sand comes out! Dual exhaust you get two cleaned at once!
-
oh ok.. oil in the exhaust... heres your solution..... use some form of oil absorber... sand, kitty litter, sawdust, and with the engine running at 4500 rpm where it occurs, dump a 5lb bag in slowly to the carburetor... as its going through your exhaust system itll grab any oil and shoot out the exhaust.... then your problem is solved! and make sure you get the stuff thats not gonna cause wear to the muffler bearing....
After doing this would I still need to yell an echo into muffler to check bearing or does this fix that too? I would like to get two things fixed at once.
-
oh ok.. oil in the exhaust... heres your solution..... use some form of oil absorber... sand, kitty litter, sawdust, and with the engine running at 4500 rpm where it occurs, dump a 5lb bag in slowly to the carburetor... as its going through your exhaust system itll grab any oil and shoot out the exhaust.... then your problem is solved! and make sure you get the stuff thats not gonna cause wear to the muffler bearing....
After doing this would I still need to yell an echo into muffler to check bearing or does this fix that too? I would like to get two things fixed at once.
No the bearing will be clean, no echo check required
-
Ok I'll put my .02 in here
One thing that nobody has really mentioned is how long the PO ran the thing with the bad modulator. He could have driven it for YEARS with the thing running tranny fluid into exhaust. You do that over an extended period that muffler and the exhaust is going to load up with tranny fluid. Running it will turn that stuff sticky and gooey, and when the engine and exhaust cools off it sets up. Well do that for a number of years and your whole exhaust gets coated with this cooked gunk thats gonna smoke when it gets hot.
Perhaps (and this is just an opinion and that and a nickle will get you a cut of coffee anywhere in the world), you might try firing it up with open headers/exhaust manifolds to see if it's smoking directly off the engine. That way you can see if there IS an engine problem, or if it's just cooking collected tranny fluid out of the exhaust.
Gunner
-
oh ok.. oil in the exhaust... heres your solution..... use some form of oil absorber... sand, kitty litter, sawdust, and with the engine running at 4500 rpm where it occurs, dump a 5lb bag in slowly to the carburetor... as its going through your exhaust system itll grab any oil and shoot out the exhaust.... then your problem is solved! and make sure you get the stuff thats not gonna cause wear to the muffler bearing....
After doing this would I still need to yell an echo into muffler to check bearing or does this fix that too? I would like to get two things fixed at once.
geesh, 2 things at once
-
U'd be surprised to know exactly how talented our Mr. Justin is!!!!!
-
Y'all are being stupid, think about it, when have you EVER heard of an oil going to the muffler in the exhaust system, unless you poured a bottle in it and we're parked on a steep grade, or pumped straight fluid through the engine WITHOUT it running which would cause more damage than move fluid then it's impossible!
Ok, Took it to another RESPECTED mechanic, who only works with older cars. Can't argue he is the Best of the Best. Known him forver, just a little bit far from me. First off, there is DEF Still a TON of Trans Fluid in the muffler and pipes. Pulled apart, and nothing but black burnt greasy trans fluid. It is baked on all the way through the exhaust and out the pipes. Cleaned up the best we could. This was the reason all the smoke poured out the first time when the modulator went bad. This is still producing some smoke, but its not the cause of the smoke at high Rpm at deceleration.
He went through my engine and looked at pistons, and eveything else and thinks my car has Roller rockers. After looking over the engine closely and taking for a drive, he came to the conclusion my engine was built for one reason...1/4 mile. He suspects when lifting at High RPM, there is a little oil that gets into the engine and creates the smoke.
Some things He looked first to rule out was the Vac lines. There was no fluid going through the lines to create the smoke. 2) Brake Fluid. Says sometimes Brake fluid can cause this if the booster or cylinder (dont remember what he said) malfunctions. 3rd and final would be the valves.
Simply put, its a combination of things, but I will be going to a lower gear soon, and hopefully that will keep the RPMs Down and cut back on the smoke as well. I will be on the expressway a lot traveling to shows, and I do not like cruising at 70 mph while running at 4000 RPM. Thats a little to high for me. Thanks again for all the replies on this problem.
-
I normally try to refrain from being negative openly but if thats what your mechanic said I am very afraid for you.
Did he really find out that you have rockers? Did the original owner keep that from you?
Also, did he pull all the pistons and inspect or just a few?? I bet he didnt pull them all.
Also, judging from the amount of fluid you say is in the exhaust you would be pouring brake fluid in the master cylinder at every redlight.
Do yourself a favor and ask around for a local mechanic that knows a little bit about cars. Try to find a guy that doesn't mind explaining in detail to you exactly what he thinks is wrong and how he plans to fix it. At the very least buy yourself a chiltons manual and keep it in the bathroom. Finally when seeking advice remember less is more when it comes to number of chiefs involved or else you'll be chasing your tail all the time.
Why should you listen to me??? I know I'm not very bright but I'm old and I have been paying attention as I went along.
-
U'd be surprised to know exactly how talented our Mr. Justin is!!!!!
Hey now...what are you trying to say? I've been told I am pretty darn good
-
Yup. 100% sure it has Rockers
And its trans Fluid reside from the bad modulator
-
no comment.... I am going to refrain from making any comments about how stupid the mechanic is... just let it be known that it seems that alot of what you were told were EXTREME what-if comments...
-
no comment.... I am going to refrain from making any comments about how stupid the mechanic is... just let it be known that it seems that alot of what you were told were EXTREME what-if comments...
thats fine, everyone has their own opinion. i would trust him with anything car related over anyone else. no questions asked. absolute best there is. People come from outta state just to have him redo their car.
-
I honestly think Gunner is on to Something. Maybe the other guy got rid of it bcuz it couldn't figure out the problem? Question? How much are you spending on all this checking? If Gunner and You are correct and it is Trans Residue, couldn't you just replace the Mufflers or Exhaust Piping that is affected? Maybe I am simplifying it too much?
-
I honestly think Gunner is on to Something. Maybe the other guy got rid of it bcuz it couldn't figure out the problem? Question? How much are you spending on all this checking? If Gunner and You are correct and it is Trans Residue, couldn't you just replace the Mufflers or Exhaust Piping that is affected? Maybe I am simplifying it too much?
Well my mechanic I saw today did the Carb, fixed vac lines, adjusted throttle and fixed celonoid shaker all while looking at my other issues for Nothing. The guy is a complete stand up Guy whos only passion is cars. I agree that Gunner may be on to something. I only had the car on the road a day or 2 before it went bad because of the fire.
The Trans fluid is burning out of the pipes now. They are starting to looks somewhat normal. Its an all Stainless Exhaust, so I would rather not replace haha.
I honestly do believe the PO sold the car knowing it was problematic. He only had it 2 years, so maybe he got fed up? Idk, but I wont. I will get this car Running Perfect as long as its in his hands. :)
-
Well my mechanic I saw today retimed the Carb, fixed vac lines, adjuste throttle and fixed celonoid shaker all while looking at my other issues for Nothing. The guy is a complete stand up Guy whos only passion is cars. I agree that Gunner may be on to something. I only had the car on the road a day or 2 before it went bad because of the fire.
I hope you have just mis typed ALOT or you got a few things confused...
you cannot ever re-time a carb, re jet yes, adjust some screws yes, but never re-time
the throttle is not adjustable on these cars, cables are one length and made that way, the only possible thing would be to raise or lower the idle speed...
-
Ok So No New exhaust! Maybe some kind of additive to help burn it out the exhaust quicker? Or at least Cleaner?
-
Thanks for making things clear. im the first to admit im an idiot on these cars but i know he did a lot and it runs 20x bettrt
-
Thanks for making things clear. im the first to admit im an idiot on these cars but i know he did a lot and it runs 20x bettrt
I dont want to put you down or anything, but then again I dont want to see somebody being told something wrong and getting ripped off...
-
Dude Just see it thru! If the Fire didn't stop you then I think you can "Get Er Done!"
-
Rockers ?
-
Yeah Boss- If this guy took the time to adjust your valve train (rocker comment), re- set timing, adjust carb and do other trouble shooting for you----- that sounds great.
Like Tin suggest, try to stick with one mechanic.
Ask questions to anything you don't understand.
As for that '71 being built for one thing (1/4 mile).
It's not!!!
That's a good thing.
You may have a health motor with a thick cam and a taller gear (like a 3.73 or 4.11).
But that car is NOT a drag car. Far from it!!!!!!!!!!
Again be glad it's not.
It's worth more how it is (and it's sweet- wish it was mine).
You wouldn't be driving a 1/4 drag car down the interstate.
One little bug at a time and your '71 will be your dream car.
I have to be honest with you, my Trans Am loving heart bleed when that fire happened.
Good save. Be proud of that and keep plugging away at your dream Trans Am.
She's just trying to educate you a little at a time. Bigger cammed cars are fussy.
If this last mechanic is willing to take time to explain tuning and have you get your hands involvef----I would strongly
-
Yeah the car is a runner. Its not all trimmed out for racing but the engine has been prepped dor it. i dont.want a racecar. just a nice driver witj decent power
-
Yeah the car is a runner. Its not all trimmed out for racing but the engine has been prepped dor it. i dont.want a racecar. just a nice driver witj decent power
Don't WE ALL! ::)
-
Sorry about the cell phone malfunction.
What I was trying to say is--- these older carb cars are like your girlfriend/wife.
You have to be touching them to understand them.
The more you touch her, the more she will open up to you.
Now with a bigger cam involved with a carbed car----
That's like the bitch side of your girlfriend/wife .
You will need to know how tune and adjust her to a happy medium.
If you don't figure it out, you always have to take her to another man to get her under control for you. I'm shaking my head "hell no" right now.
-
Sorry about the cell phone malfunction.
What I was trying to say is--- these older carb cars are like your girlfriend/wife.
You have to be touching them to understand them.
The more you touch her, the more she will open up to you.
Now with a bigger cam involved with a carbed car----
That's like the bitch side of your girlfriend/wife .
You will need to know how tune and adjust her to a happy medium.
If you don't figure it out, you always have to take her to another man to get her under control for you. I'm shaking my head "hell no" right now.
Thanks! Ya that fire tore me apart too, but luckily was able to save it. I know its not "Race Ready" for the 1/4 mile, and I dont want it to be. I would like a little more power than my 76 had, but I do not need what this car has right now. I really want to take it to the Strip to just see what she has in her before I take it down a little bit. We have really calmed the engine down a little bit already. I mean at idle, that thing would shake like you wouldn't believe. Now it needs a new gear, and hopefully She will be good to go.
Like I have said, this is my dream car and I will do whatever it takes to get her running the rigt way! Ive already been through a lot with it in 45 days and can't wait to finally get it dialed in! Thanks for the reply!!!
-
I am VERY surprised at some of the answers that I am reading. We have an inexperienced guy here with a BIG problem and some of you guys are doing nothing but making fun of him. There is not a Trans Am owner out there that would not love to have this car, including me.
I think that either your mechanic friend is not explaining things well or you are not listening well.
The first thing you need to do is determine the health of the engine. Take a compression test and make sure it is in spec. If the compression is all good I would take it out for a long drive like a hour or so at highway speeds and burn all that oil out of the exhaust. This will at least allow you to discount residual oil is the problem.
If the problem persists after doing this I would look at the valve seals and guides.
These are machines and there are reasons for what happens.
Your mechanic did not physically cheak any pistons as this would require him to disassemble the engine. All Pontiac engines have rockers. Timing is done to the ignition. Idle mixture is done to the carb.
Its going to be a great day early here in Chicago, go drive it and burn out that residual oil and ENJOY.
-
I am VERY surprised at some of the answers that I am reading. We have an inexperienced guy here with a BIG problem and some of you guys are doing nothing but making fun of him. There is not a Trans Am owner out there that would not love to have this car, including me.
I think that either your mechanic friend is not explaining things well or you are not listening well.
The first thing you need to do is determine the health of the engine. Take a compression test and make sure it is in spec. If the compression is all good I would take it out for a long drive like a hour or so at highway speeds and burn all that oil out of the exhaust. This will at least allow you to discount residual oil is the problem.
If the problem persists after doing this I would look at the valve seals and guides.
These are machines and there are reasons for what happens.
Your mechanic did not physically cheak any pistons as this would require him to disassemble the engine. All Pontiac engines have rockers. Timing is done to the ignition. Idle mixture is done to the carb.
Its going to be a great day early here in Chicago, go drive it and burn out that residual oil and ENJOY.
Thanks Norwood! I know I am "Stupid" at this stuff, but I will learn one day haha! I am pretty sure my mechanic explained things correctly, but Its honestly all over my head at this point. I wish I knew more, and in time I will. Thanks again and I hope to see you at some of the shows this year!
Ryan
-
you are NOT stupid Ryan, you are just lacking some knowledge and quite honestly there is nothing wrong with that, ask the mechanic/mechanics to either write down their findings or explain in laymans language, did you get my PM? one of the first pics clearly shows this problem is after you purchased it
-
you are NOT stupid Ryan, you are just lacking some knowledge and quite honestly there is nothing wrong with that, ask the mechanic/mechanics to either write down their findings or explain in laymans language, did you get my PM? one of the first pics clearly shows this problem is after you purchased it
Yes I did Joe! Thank You! You are Awesome!
-
Everyone and I mean everyone started out with NO KNOWLEGE, that is not "stupid" that is inexperienced. You will learn how this stuff works, its not as they say rocket science. Just keep at it and don't be afraid of it and certainly ask questions. There are plenty here with plenty of knowledge to help.
-
Norwoods post (although most had already been said in the previous 10 pages) really got me to thinking.
The part about it's a great day here in Chicago!!! Perhaps if you two live close to one another, he would be nice enough to check the car out for you. Shouldn't honestly take that long to do the checks we all suggested and he more than certainly sounds like he knows what he is talking about. It would remove the "he said, she said" from the posting and maybe give you a good "go to" guy thats a straight shooter and knows his stuff.
For 10 pages we have suggested (some taken, some not) clean the exhaust, take it for a long drive, check the lines, perhaps its the valves, guides, take it to a mechanic, remove the exhaust, etc etc etc....I think we have covered all we are able to (based on both parties skill set) without laying hands on the car.
-
yup, well put
-
Be happy to, lets see your on the Southside and I'm in the far west burbs, Chicago is really BIG.
But this defeats what I'm talking about. Get a Chiltons go to Sears and get a compresion gauge and do it.
joe d I'm on my way to your hood to play some hockey on Wed to Mon.
-
Be happy to, lets see your on the Southside and I'm in the far west burbs, Chicago is really BIG.
But this defeats what I'm talking about. Get a Chiltons go to Sears and get a compresion gauge and do it.
joe d I'm on my way to your hood to play some hockey on Wed to Mon.
You are coming to Florida to play hockey? be glad to meet you
-
Thanks Norwood! I know I am "Stupid" at this stuff, but I will learn one day haha! I am pretty sure my mechanic explained things correctly, but Its honestly all over my head at this point. I wish I knew more, and in time I will. Thanks again and I hope to see you at some of the shows this year!
Ryan
Whoa there boss. Nobody was born knowing. Everybody has to learn. Thats what we're here for, to help teach you and point you in the right direction. Sounds to me like you got a steeper than normal learning curve to climb, but it can be done. Not to worry. We'll get you headed in the right direction. ;D
Gunner
-
Be happy to, lets see your on the Southside and I'm in the far west burbs, Chicago is really BIG.
But this defeats what I'm talking about. Get a Chiltons go to Sears and get a compresion gauge and do it.
joe d I'm on my way to your hood to play some hockey on Wed to Mon.
I sort of thought the go drive it advice (for like an hour or so at highway speeds) might cover the distance. Oh well, was just a thought. If he'd drive/tow it to MD I'd be more than happy to help him do a compression check and troubleshoot anything else. I'm not so sure that advising him to go buy a book and some tools is the answer. Some time with a hands on mechanic would probably be a good place to start.
Mr Striker I apologize for the mental break we took during your dilema. Sometimes you just have to step back from a problem and have a cigarette, a coffee, a brew, whatever it takes to laugh at yourself and then refocus and start again. The reason I asked specific questions was to check your involvement with the mechanic. I wanted to know if you were watching over his shoulder (trying to learn) or simply a "I'll drop the key in the box please call when its ready guy."
Unfortunately I don't think I can help you any further with your problem. Matter of fact, Im not sure if you even still have a problem! You may be dealing with leftovers from the busted modulator. If by chance you and the car are in my area I'll be glad to come take a look with you and see what we can uncover. Best of luck with your two beautiful cars.
I'm now going to do what I said earlier and turn this over to the guys that wanna/can help you.
-
Thanks Norwood! I know I am "Stupid" at this stuff, but I will learn one day haha! I am pretty sure my mechanic explained things correctly, but Its honestly all over my head at this point. I wish I knew more, and in time I will. Thanks again and I hope to see you at some of the shows this year!
Ryan
Whoa there boss. Nobody was born knowing. Everybody has to learn. Thats what we're here for, to help teach you and point you in the right direction. Sounds to me like you got a steeper than normal learning curve to climb, but it can be done. Not to worry. We'll get you headed in the right direction. ;D
Gunner
Thanks Gunner!!
Be happy to, lets see your on the Southside and I'm in the far west burbs, Chicago is really BIG.
But this defeats what I'm talking about. Get a Chiltons go to Sears and get a compresion gauge and do it.
joe d I'm on my way to your hood to play some hockey on Wed to Mon.
I sort of thought the go drive it advice (for like an hour or so at highway speeds) might cover the distance. Oh well, was just a thought. If he'd drive/tow it to MD I'd be more than happy to help him do a compression check and troubleshoot anything else. I'm not so sure that advising him to go buy a book and some tools is the answer. Some time with a hands on mechanic would probably be a good place to start.
Mr Striker I apologize for the mental break we took during your dilema. Sometimes you just have to step back from a problem and have a cigarette, a coffee, a brew, whatever it takes to laugh at yourself and then refocus and start again. The reason I asked specific questions was to check your involvement with the mechanic. I wanted to know if you were watching over his shoulder (trying to learn) or simply a "I'll drop the key in the box please call when its ready guy."
Unfortunately I don't think I can help you any further with your problem. Matter of fact, Im not sure if you even still have a problem! You may be dealing with leftovers from the busted modulator. If by chance you and the car are in my area I'll be glad to come take a look with you and see what we can uncover. Best of luck with your two beautiful cars.
I'm now going to do what I said earlier and turn this over to the guys that wanna/can help you.
Thank you So Much Tin and Norwood. I am looking forward to meeting you this Summer! I love this place and know the members here know a lot about their cars, and I respect everyones opinion. There is no reason to apologize for anything. Sometimes the best cure for a problem is to laugh and joke about it. Trust me, I have made fun of the problem to some friends too. My buddy has a Mustang, and I told him I would Smoke him...literally :) You need to have a sense of humor when all else fails and just keep pushing through. I realy do appreciate all the advice and replys I got. It says a lot about the members wanting to help a situation.
-
HOLD UP THERE NORWOOD! Before you start throwing stones. NO ONE was making fun of him for any reason. It was more just trying to add some humor to the situation. I know how frustrating these types of situations can be and ya have to find humor in it all before ya go mad. So if someone took the posts as offensive then sorry, no harm was meant.
For the record I am also very ignorant on cars. Heck I am taking my headers off and nervous on lifting the motor up a few inches. I have removed a motor but it was already broke, I don't want to break the good one!
-
i think if you remove the muffler and bearing your headers will fall out, piece of cake
-
Ok Norwood since you are offering, Give a Simpletons version of the compression test. When I did mine I didn't unhook the Ignition? And it proceeded to start? LOL I never made fun of him and I believe the people who were truly trying to help wouldn't do that! If I knew him However I would give him S$%& All Day Long! But then I would help him! So lets get this like alot of other problems we've covered with EVERYONES Cars on here figured out and let this Guy ENJOY HIS RIDE! :D Note to Striker: like suggested stay with the same mechanic so things aren't repeated unnecessarily(If Possible). Also Keep a very detailed journal so you can reference any issues or behaviors of the vehicle!
-
Ok Norwood since you are offering, Give a Simpletons version of the compression test. When I did mine I didn't unhook the Ignition? And it proceeded to start? LOL I never made fun of him and I believe the people who were truly trying to help wouldn't do that! If I knew him However I would give him S$%& All Day Long! But then I would help him! So lets get this like alot of other problems we've covered with EVERYONES Cars on here figured out and let this Guy ENJOY HIS RIDE! :D Note to Striker: like suggested stay with the same mechanic so things aren't repeated unnecessarily(If Possible). Also Keep a very detailed journal so you can reference any issues or behaviors of the vehicle!
i am sorry but i am really laughing my a$$ off, did your engine really start when you did a comp test? i love it and yes you are 100% right we/i really want to get this kid on the road safe and sound so he can enjoy that beautiful t/a
-
HOLD UP THERE NORWOOD! Before you start throwing stones.
No stones here, I just said that I was surprised at some of the answers and I am. This kid has a ton invested here and some think that their weak effort at comedy helps, I don't think he is laughing, to each his own. This was my first post on these problems and I stated what I would do which is the logical thing. If that OFFENDS anyone who posted previously maybe they should look at what they posted to help this kid. By the way Its easy to offer your personal help when your 1500 miles away isn't it.
What I offer and do for this hobby go along way into saying what I am and I stand on my record.
-
hmmmm....see this is where I would insert JOKE. Getting a little tense in here. I myself have had tons(as I am sure most here have) issues with just about every car I have owned. Everyone I knew during my learning process of these have made similar jokes to me and honestly it cleared my head. I was actually just looking at a thread I started here over 3 years ago about some electrical issues I was having with my dash harness. I actually had to read it out loud to my wife so we could both laugh and the STUPID questions I was asking. I am only 26 and am still asking quite a few questions. I learned to write stuff down as i go now. I now slow down and label and bag things as I take them apart. Jokes were made to lighten the mood. Striker seems like a young guy who likes to have fun and doesn't mind getting his hands dirty either. Glad he is interested and taking part. I would also suggest having someone there to guide him as well just in case while he was "learning on the job" something happened and there was someone there to quickly handle the situation. So someone offering their helping hand but being too far away to be there physically should not be held against them .
Take it from me. When I lived in PA Tin Indian helped me through email,Phone calls,pictures,wiring schematics,selling me parts I needed for a super low price and even driving over half way just to meet up and BS with me in a parking lot for over and hour. He is still helping me on my car daily and I am now 2900 miles away. So I would seriously consider taking his help when he offers it. Also he helped me tear apart my first 400 while on the phone and knew the size sockets and wrenches needed. So he knows his sh*t.
-
hmmmm....see this is where I would insert JOKE. Getting a little tense in here. I myself have had tons(as I am sure most here have) issues with just about every car I have owned.
YOU'VE had issues? I've gone through two and am starting on my third in a year and a half ;D
Gunner
-
hmmmm....see this is where I would insert JOKE. Getting a little tense in here. I myself have had tons(as I am sure most here have) issues with just about every car I have owned.
YOU'VE had issues? I've gone through two and am starting on my third in a year and a half ;D
Gunner
We can't all be so lucky Gunner. You are the exception to the rule.
-
Hi Ryan,
The only place where auto trans fluid comes into contact with the engine is inside the radiator, where the coolant passes through the radiator to be cooled. If the line inside the radiator were cracked, it would enter the coolant and contaminate it. But if burnt trans fluid is found coating the inside of the exhaust that would suggest to me that someone poured some of it down the carb while the engine was running. Not the smartest thing to do, but it will eventually burn off.
An engine built for drag isn't necessarily a bad thing, unless the cam they chose is too lopey and radical to run your power brakes. Other than that the engine internals and major engine parts like the block and heads would be similar to a street engine. Drag racers often build their engines to make power at a higher rpm, so if you have a single plane intake I would swap that out for a dual plane to get better low rpm torque. Full roller rockers are also louder that roller tip or stock rockers- I've had a few customers complain that full roller rockers were too noisy. A switch to roller tip rockers usually solves that issue.
Feel free to PM me if you have any engine questions- I've been building ponchos for over 22 years, so it's safe to say I do know them.
Geno
-
Thanks again Everyone! It seems all the Trans Fluid has finally burned out of the exhaust! When Sticking finger in the tailpipes, they are clean again! They were Very Oily and coated. I have driven the car over 400 miles over the past 4-5 Days, and It def seems a lot better, so We will see what happens!!
-
Thanks again Everyone! It seems all the Trans Fluid has finally burned out of the exhaust! When Sticking finger in the tailpipes, they are clean again! They were Very Oily and coated. I have driven the car over 400 miles over the past 4-5 Days, and It def seems a lot better, so We will see what happens!!
that is great news. Now enjoy that beauty and dont worry about a thing and i would not detune it either as long as you are happy with it
-
crossing my fingers that this is the end of trouble for you.
-
It's never good when you stick your fingers in and they come out oily.........
Sorry I had to say it! Glad she is getting better and you got some miles on it!
-
:-X
-
Thanks Everyone!!
-
you are welcome
-
It's never good when you stick your fingers in and they come out oily.........
Sorry I had to say it! Glad she is getting better and you got some miles on it!
Haha Thats Funny ;D I will be putting a lot of miles on it this year. I think I put about 7000 on my 76 last summer haha...I like to enjoy them
-
It's never good when you stick your fingers in and they come out oily.........
Sorry I had to say it! Glad she is getting better and you got some miles on it!
Haha Thats Funny ;D I will be putting a lot of miles on it this year. I think I put about 7000 on my 76 last summer haha...I like to enjoy them
a man after my own heart, I hate trailer queens