Author Topic: help!!  (Read 3228 times)

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Offline HOMER

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help!!
« on: February 26, 2011, 09:37:54 PM »
got motor put back in it viberates very bad! it alway had a slight viberation before rebuild but now the whole car shakes! seems to be towards trans and not engine its self would a bad t-convertor cause this? im about ready to sell this piece of s#$@ 16,000 in a car you cant drive and never even got to in 5 years!!
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Offline kentuckyyeti

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Re: help!!
« Reply #1 on: February 26, 2011, 09:40:31 PM »
Are you sure you got the torque converter mounted correctly?  That is teh first suspect I'd think of.

Offline Tin Indians Rule

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Re: help!!
« Reply #2 on: February 26, 2011, 09:45:38 PM »
Does it worsen or smooth out with RPM's? Did the machine shop balance the bottom end? If so, Did they add weight to the crank or mill off? I'm scared you're gonna find a balancer problem tho.

One other thing? You sure it's wired/timed right.
What's she wearing now? Come on!
1976 Black 455 4 speed (current project)
1976 White 400 Auto (original)
F-body stuff stashed everywhere.
Always buying/selling/trading  just ask!

Offline Tin Indians Rule

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Re: help!!
« Reply #3 on: February 26, 2011, 09:47:50 PM »
1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 Counter Clockwise. Wired wrong will make that engine run ill, shake, pop, etc.
What's she wearing now? Come on!
1976 Black 455 4 speed (current project)
1976 White 400 Auto (original)
F-body stuff stashed everywhere.
Always buying/selling/trading  just ask!

Offline HOMER

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Re: help!!
« Reply #4 on: February 26, 2011, 09:54:32 PM »
wired correctly, new balancer from summit , dont kow what machine shop did dont seem to be engine though ,gets worse with rpms and i assume the converter installed right ony goes one way right? two clicks
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Offline Joker (§ir£Ðragon)

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Re: help!!
« Reply #5 on: February 26, 2011, 10:54:29 PM »
First thing I'd do is check that the torque converter bolts are all tight. But also don't confine your examination to just the area the vibration seems to be coming from. Vibrations and noises can travel through parts the way they do through a stethoscope and can deceive you this way.

And the best way to know if your converter is seated fully is when you can no longer slide your fingers between it and the tranny's pump.
« Last Edit: February 26, 2011, 10:56:41 PM by Joker (§ir£Ðragon) »
Larry


Offline Tin Indians Rule

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Re: help!!
« Reply #6 on: February 26, 2011, 11:48:39 PM »
three clicks pal. larry is spot on with the test. If the converter is fully seated you will not be able to slide you're finger in. You might be able to take the converter bolts out and pry the back of the converter into the transmission and spin it at the same time. Maybe. man. thats awful. Sorry.
What's she wearing now? Come on!
1976 Black 455 4 speed (current project)
1976 White 400 Auto (original)
F-body stuff stashed everywhere.
Always buying/selling/trading  just ask!

Offline Amtrak

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Re: help!!
« Reply #7 on: February 27, 2011, 03:18:27 AM »
Hey homer take out the torque converter bolts and pull the converter back away from the flywheel and run the engine to see if the vibration is still there... at least you will know  if the engine is causing it or not

Offline Tin Indians Rule

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Re: help!!
« Reply #8 on: February 27, 2011, 09:02:05 AM »
Just make sure there is not a balance weight on the flywheel that can come around and grab one of the tangs on the torque converter.
What's she wearing now? Come on!
1976 Black 455 4 speed (current project)
1976 White 400 Auto (original)
F-body stuff stashed everywhere.
Always buying/selling/trading  just ask!

Offline HOMER

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Re: help!!
« Reply #9 on: February 27, 2011, 11:10:05 AM »
would it still run/drive move with converter not seated ?
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Offline Joker (§ir£Ðragon)

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Re: help!!
« Reply #10 on: February 27, 2011, 11:19:03 AM »
It can if it puts pressure on the splines that it didn't fit into right and spin them that way, but not a good idea as it will damage the tranny or converter.
Larry


Offline Tin Indians Rule

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Re: help!!
« Reply #11 on: February 27, 2011, 11:20:19 AM »
Engine will run but transmission will not function as the converter will not be turning therefore the pump in transmission cannot build pressure.
I've never unbolted a converter and started an engine but I can't see where there would be a problem unless the flywheel has an external weight. If it does then as the flywheel is spinning with the engine and all the force behind it if it were to come in contact with the torque converter (heavy mass not moving) it could possibly crack the flexplate. But i'd say thats a longshot.
The quickest way to eliminate if the converter is seated is just like Larry said.
If you cannot stick your finger between the converter and the transmission housing facing the pump then it's right. The other way to check is three clicks while seating the converter while out of the car.
Good luck and I sure hope it's something simple and cheap for ya. you've had a time with the ol'girl.
What's she wearing now? Come on!
1976 Black 455 4 speed (current project)
1976 White 400 Auto (original)
F-body stuff stashed everywhere.
Always buying/selling/trading  just ask!

Offline Tin Indians Rule

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Re: help!!
« Reply #12 on: February 27, 2011, 11:22:09 AM »
Sorry I thought your question was if the converter was unbolted. I misread where you said unseated. Sorry. But true answer nonetheless.
What's she wearing now? Come on!
1976 Black 455 4 speed (current project)
1976 White 400 Auto (original)
F-body stuff stashed everywhere.
Always buying/selling/trading  just ask!

Offline Joker (§ir£Ðragon)

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Re: help!!
« Reply #13 on: February 27, 2011, 11:23:26 AM »
Actually if you do unbolt it and it's not sated right you won't be able to slide the converter away from the flywheel anyway.
Larry


Offline Tin Indians Rule

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Re: help!!
« Reply #14 on: February 27, 2011, 11:25:00 AM »
yeah, true dat too. Cuz it wouldnt be in far enough to start with.
What's she wearing now? Come on!
1976 Black 455 4 speed (current project)
1976 White 400 Auto (original)
F-body stuff stashed everywhere.
Always buying/selling/trading  just ask!