Topic: Rustoleum for subframe and firewall?

[Schroeder]

What do you guys think?  I've actually put rustoleum on my subframe already but wondered what you guys thought of this.  Rustoleum out of a quart seems super thick, durable, and easy to spray for me.  Has anyone had any bad experience with this?  I've looked into eastwood stuff but there seems to be so many steps involved in alllll their products.  It looks like to do a simple job with eastwood stuff you have to spend a lot of money. 

I think the rustoleum black looks nice.  Thus far I have been priming with rustoleum autobody primer rattle cans and spraying the semi-gloss black from a quart mixed with a little paint thinner. I've been applying about 3 coats of the black.  Seems tough so far.  You guys have any input?

[iceman]

I'm more of a fan of Eastwood's Chassis black. Not too much, not too little for gloss. More a 'correct' look if that's what your going after... I have no input on rustoleum other than it looks good on wagons, chairs and some farm equipment. Bottom line, do what suits you best. Seriously, I don't know how well rustoleum holds up after years of heat cycles. I know from experience how well Eastwood's product holds up and looks great after 10 years in my current motor compartment. I do know that when it comes to paint, you get what you pay for.

[Schroeder]

I'm more of a fan of Eastwood's Chassis black. Not too much, not too little for gloss. More a 'correct' look if that's what your going after... I have no input on rustoleum other than it looks good on wagons, chairs and some farm equipment. Bottom line, do what suits you best. Seriously, I don't know how well rustoleum holds up after years of heat cycles. I know from experience how well Eastwood's product holds up and looks great after 10 years in my current motor compartment. I do know that when it comes to paint, you get what you pay for.

I've always thought rustoleum was a tough paint. We use it on the farm and it seems to hold up well on almost everything.  Does anyone else have input?

Iceman, do you use the chasis black only on the frame or firewall too?  have you tried their underhood black?

Also, I know there are 100 eastwood threads on here. I've read a lot of them.  I wanted to start my own though so I could apply the information directly to my situation.  Thanks guys.

[Schroeder]

Is the eastwood black epoxy primer a good choice for the firewall and chasis?  Could I just grind my firewall off, wipe it with SEM paint prep, and shoot it with the epoxy primer and call it good?

[Greenbird76]

I used various wire wheel braided brushes on my undercarriage after doing major rust repair and welding in the rear of my 76.  i then sprayed it with rustoleum rusty metal primer and flat black.  It has been about two years since AI did all that work and it still looks very good.  the problem with rustoleum is that in stock form it takes quite a while to fully cure.  This can be rectified by adding some hardener to it.  Many rat rod guys do their flat black paint jobs this way I learned.  I also used rustolem on my disc brake dust shields and spindles and they are also looking good.  The clear rustoleum was used on many bare metal parts from brackets to bolts, nuts and washers and all looks great. 

I replaced the trunk extensions, inner tail valence, quarter extensions, 21 inches of each rear frame rail, portion of trunk pan with donor pieces.  All new seam and ribbon sealer.  the flat black rustoleum is cheap and touches up easily. 

Add in a brand new gas tank and refurbished sending unit and straps

Fully stripped, painted and cleared the 10 bolt posi 4:10 rear; donor rear sway bar was painted with eastwoods zinc coating and cleared with rustoleum clear.  It looks great and is highly chip resistant.



And the finished product.  These pics were taken this spring-

[Schroeder]

ah haaa! I knew someone on here told me they used rustoleum and I thought it was you greenbird, but I wasn't sure!  I'm so glad you saw my posting. 

What hardener did you use with your rustoleum then and where can I pick it up? 

I like the clear coat on the bolts idea.  I blasted my bolts and was wondering how I was going to keep them from rusting.

[Greenbird76]

I actually never added the hardener and it took almost 3 weeks to fully cure which was fine for me because the car was apart and off the road.  I researched it and found that if you add some hardener to it, say 2 oz per gallon, you can block sand with in 24 hours.  Rustoleum even makes there own.  Or any quality hardener from an auto parts store or paint supply store.  The rustoleum clear was invaluable to me.  The leaf spring shackles were new from OER.  I roughed them up a bit with some maroon scotch bright and painted them them Rustoleum clear, 3 coats starting light to moderate.  Remember just like with any painting project, prep is the key.  As I have said before, PREP, PREP, AND MORE PREP!   In addition, the rear quarter extensions I welded in were finished in guess what- Rustoleum fern green!  I wet sanded with 1000 and 1500 grit in between each coat, then covered it with an automotive grade acrylic lacquer from a spray bomb, wet sanding that also.  And that was a rushed procedure and look how that came out. 

[Schroeder]

Thanks again greenbird.  Really helpful.  I have some rustoleum in a quart with a bit of mineral spirits in it that I used to thin it up for spraying.  I didn't put much in it.

I'm thinking of using that paint with this hardener from o'reily's.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MPR3/8132/N1979.oap?ck=Search_catalyst_N1979_-1_2139&keyword=catalyst&pt=N1979&ppt=C0171

It says it's for acrylic enamel, so it should work with rustoleum.

Or do I need this "catalyst"?  http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MPR3/8142/N1979.oap?ck=Search_catalyst_N1979_-1_2139&keyword=catalyst&pt=N1979&ppt=C0171

I thought hardeners and catalysts were the same.  Which do I get guys to mix with my rustoleum so I can get the rustoelum set up in less than 3 months haha.

[smith79]

Is the eastwood black epoxy primer a good choice for the firewall and chasis?  Could I just grind my firewall off, wipe it with SEM paint prep, and shoot it with the epoxy primer and call it good?

I just shot my firewall, inner fender, and other parts with the Eastwood black epoxy primer.  You definitely want to topcoat it, it will scratch easily and will not look good (looks like primer).  i have the Eastwood 2K underhood black I plan to topcoat it with but have not sprayed it yet.

[Schroeder]

Is the eastwood black epoxy primer a good choice for the firewall and chasis?  Could I just grind my firewall off, wipe it with SEM paint prep, and shoot it with the epoxy primer and call it good?

I just shot my firewall, inner fender, and other parts with the Eastwood black epoxy primer.  You definitely want to topcoat it, it will scratch easily and will not look good (looks like primer).  i have the Eastwood 2K underhood black I plan to topcoat it with but have not sprayed it yet.

thanks a lot smith.  I would like to pursue the rustoleum though.  Can anyone give input as to which of the hardeners or catalysts I want to use from o'reily's?  The links are above.  Thanks.

BTW!!! I am using rustoleum's semi-gloss black oil-based protective enamel.

[smith79]

I think you will be fine with the Rustoleum. I'm not sure what brand of hardener to mix with it or if Rustoleum makes one.

[Schroeder]

I wasn't worried about the brand.  I was concerned on whether I should get the catalyst or the hardener.  It appears that the catalysts are for urethanes and other painting products.  Rustoelum is an enamel and from the item descriptions, it appears that enamels need the hardeners.  Therefore, tomorrow when I get off work I will be swinging through o'reily's for this hardening agent to mix with my rustoleum, and then I will be going to wal-mart to pick up a couple spray bombs (or pint) of rustoleum clear.

If anyone reads this and realizes I am making a grave mistake in choosing the hardener over the catalyst or am making some other mistake please notify me asap! Thanks guys.

[smith79]

I think you should be good.  The only thing I would do different is I'd spray it with a cheap HVLP gun rather than using a rattle can.

You can get cheapo's for $20-$40 and they will give you a better finish (or you can pay a lot more if you're so inclined)

[Schroeder]

I think you should be good.  The only thing I would do different is I'd spray it with a cheap HVLP gun rather than using a rattle can.

You can get cheapo's for $20-$40 and they will give you a better finish (or you can pay a lot more if you're so inclined)

I have a nice spray gun.  I shot the subframe with it already and it worked nice.  Not to mention, the rustoleum is hard.  I did the work months ago though ha.

[4SPEED]

this is satin blk rustoleum  , cleared with a clear coat dulling agent