Changing Spark plug wires is some sort of an aquired form of art. LOL
Most wire makers have the approach that one set will fit many, many applications therefore saving them costs on manufacturing. The drawback is to the consumer. You end up with a set of wires that maybe have just a little extra or just a little bit shorter than the factory wires. You have two choices at this point. Custom fit wires where you cut them to the correct length and crimp the connectors on or the generic one size fits most.
I usually choose the generic set and there are a few tips that will help with the installation. The length of the wires are based on the factory setting of the distributor cap and will usually fit best if the engines is wired/timed using the original #1 position on the cap. The wires are also made taking into consideration the factory loom positions. I know this will be a PIA but make sure the timing is right so that the #1 terminal on the cap is position to be the #1 plug wire. Then lay out all of the "new" wires and arrange them by length. You may have 9 wires in your "generic" set one being really short like for a ford or something with an external coil. If so, that wire will not be used in your application.
I usually start with the shortest wire and use it where it fits best. Usually ends up being #8 or #6. Typically # 2 cylinder will require the longest wire since it routes behind the cap and all the way to the right front of the engine. If the original looms/wire holders are missing look at pictures of original cars to get an idea of how the wires were routed. Trial and error will get you there and you'll have a much cleaner looking engine compartment. Be sure you understand how to set timing and the wiring order before yanking wires and the distributor.
BTW, My wire set came from O'Reileys and they fit great. It took about three hours to change them because I had to time the engine, install original wire holders, lift the AC compressor out of it's brackets, etc. But the finished product looks really great.
