Author Topic: car audio  (Read 11322 times)

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Offline ta78w72

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car audio
« Reply #15 on: May 25, 2006, 02:13:25 PM »
The dash bezel is the aluminum facia over your guages.  Three screws on the top and two long screws under the steering column cover...the one with the sivler a/c air flow diverter (you have to take this off to get to the screws).

The A/C ducts are under the dash.  You pull the glove box and you'll see the big one...the expensive one.  Check the manual for the screw locations.  There are three ducts that you need to pull (four if you count the one behind the center air deflector) ...the big passenger duct, the one under the steering column and the one that connects those two....easy, just a couple of screws.  But make sure you get all the screws and don't force anything and you won't break anything.

To get the dash bezel out, you need to take out the column cover mentioned above, the dash brace (4 bolts), and loosen the two steering column nuts but don't take them off....this will give you clearance so you don't scratch your column.  Unscrew the cigarette lighter bezel...and slip off the dash bezel.

Offline Klatt87

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car audio
« Reply #16 on: May 25, 2006, 02:55:05 PM »
alrite so i know how to take the dash off and everything... done that many of times,  then take out the glove box, and take out the little cig lighter/ defroster thingy, then loosen the sterring column bolts that are located when u take off the panel under the sterring wheel, then take out the ac things, and then i will be able to access it alot easier... alrite i think i got it thanks alot

Offline ronj1977

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car audio
« Reply #17 on: May 26, 2006, 12:13:27 AM »
if you use 6x9s in the back get small magnets i did this and then my jack wouldnt fit right under the package tray  as far as the front speaker if your dealin with a 1977 or later you can get the speaker out without removing dash it just takes time year one will compleatly rebuild old speaker no matter what the shape for 50.00

Offline ronj1977

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car audio
« Reply #18 on: May 26, 2006, 12:17:36 AM »
any body got any good pics of 8-track set up having problem getting power to my 8-track. harness is there but i think it might be missing a wire or two the 8-track is in the console 70-77 style need to find which wire is provideing power to stero harness are all the plugs full in the harness that connects to 8-track harness any help would be appreciated

Offline ta78w72

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car audio
« Reply #19 on: May 26, 2006, 09:30:42 AM »
That's a great point about the rear speakers and the jack.  You need very shallow speakers if you want the jack in the proper place.  That's why I went with 6X9's out of a 3rd gen T/A.

Offline kyledyr

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car audio
« Reply #20 on: August 05, 2006, 09:53:08 PM »
I'm having a HELL of a time getting power to my new (free) deck.  It works, I know, because when I attached the powers and ground to the battery, the deck started up. I can not figure out what I'm doing wrong. I THINK I'm using the right wires from the car. Yellow for power, black for ground, and.... what's the gray one supposed to be used for on new-style decks? Or nothing?

And where is a good place to connect the permanent power (memory) wire to?
"If you want me to be eco-friendly, make eco-friendly not suck."
'81 305 Trans Am WS6

Offline Hitman

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car audio
« Reply #21 on: August 05, 2006, 11:44:19 PM »
I thought the red was power and the yellow was for the memory... usually the blue is for power ant, but I don't know about the grey.
Brett Campbell
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1978 Trans Am

Offline ta78w72

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car audio
« Reply #22 on: August 06, 2006, 12:06:25 PM »
When I speak about different color wires, I'm referring to the original under dash harness.  Yellow powers the radio, gray is for illumination, and black is ground.  

If you are installing a new radio that requires always on power, you need to tap the key minder buzzer which is an orange wire.  You can use this always on power to power down a power antenna too.  The Yellow dash wire is switched and can be used to power up your antenna.