Author Topic: a/c redo  (Read 8339 times)

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Offline dreamer79

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a/c redo
« on: July 14, 2006, 10:07:21 AM »
i was wondering if any of you have had a/c converted from freon to r134? if so did you do it yourself or have someone do it? and how much we looking at price wise? my t/a has factory air but i know to get a/c again i'll have to have it converted.
9 black ta

Offline ta78w72

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« Reply #1 on: July 14, 2006, 10:24:08 AM »
It's probably close to the price it woud cost to get your A/C going anyway.  I think there was a post on the other forum and the price was something like $300 or $400.  But it depends on what condition your system is in.  Has your compression bit the bullet?

Offline whwright

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a/c redo
« Reply #2 on: July 14, 2006, 04:22:02 PM »
I just repaired/rebuilt the factory A/C in my 71 Chevy truck, and converted it to R134A at the same time.  Surprise surprise.... it works!

I replaced every part under the hood except for the evaporator coil and the blower.  The replacement parts weren't necessarily hard to find, but I couldn't find them all in one place.  The condenser coil came from "Old Air Products," the expansion valve from NAPA, the compressor from O'Reilly, and the remainder (hoses, POA, hard lines, dryer, and seals) from Classic Industries.  As it turned out, the parts I received from Classic all have the "Old Air Products" label on them.

On top of that, there was of course R-134A, oil, and a can of A/C flush.

I paid about $750 to $850 (I never really added it all up) for the parts and pieces, and it took me a long weekend to put it all together.  It also took an entire evening to evacuate the system and get it all charged up.  I still can't get the belt tight enough that it doesn't occassionally squeel...

In order to do the job right you will need a vacuum pump, a good set of gauges, and a leak detector.  I was lucky enough to be able to borrow that stuff.

If you have specific questions or just want me to get lost say the word.

Good luck!

Wayne.
1978 Trans Am
1975 Grand Prix
1971 Chevy C20
1972 ...uhem... mustang

Offline dreamer79

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a/c redo
« Reply #3 on: July 14, 2006, 05:51:58 PM »
my girlfriend is buying a 76 trans am. it sounded like it had factory air, but pieces are missing. she wants air in it so she'd have to have it converted.
9 black ta

Offline whwright

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a/c redo
« Reply #4 on: July 14, 2006, 08:31:38 PM »
She wouldn't necessarily "have" to convert it, but it is probably the smartest, most environmentally conscious, and least expensive route.

Do you have access to the car?  Can you give us more descriptions of what remains of the system?  Can you post (links to) pictures?
1978 Trans Am
1975 Grand Prix
1971 Chevy C20
1972 ...uhem... mustang

Offline h3bubba

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a/c redo
« Reply #5 on: July 18, 2006, 08:15:47 PM »
I just changed my AC fron R-12 to R-134a in my '79 T/A.  
      I replaced was the compressor, only because the clutch gave out on it and I figured for the cost might as well replace the whole darn thing.  New AC Delco compressor cost 300 bucks on eBay.  
      The other part I replaced was the Receiver/drier (Accumulator).  It is a must if you are going to retro fit to 134a. I also went to the local parts store and repaced all the O-rings in the system and on the back of the compressor.  I also bought AC system flush and ran it through the condensor only.  DO NOT run it through the compressor.  
     Remember that you also have to change out the oil in the compressor.  Drain out the old and add the same amount back.  this should be about 10oz into the compressor and 2 oz into the acculmulator.  remember to oil each o-ring too b/f you tighten the nuts.  You may want to go a step further and have the system evacuated at an AC shop and they will also check for leaks then.  I did not, but I'm good at this sort of stuff.  
     Once you get everything back together, charge it up to 3.25lbs of R-134a.  They only sell it in 12oz bottles and 16oz is a pound so do the math.  I have black vinyl seats  and T-tops and it is still cool enough to ride around in the day here in FL.  

Hope this helps.

Pete

Offline h3bubba

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a/c redo
« Reply #6 on: July 18, 2006, 08:21:45 PM »
Sorry, forgot to add the prices the the Accumulator ($45) and the O-rings ($8).  134 was a total of $40, $5 for the fitting to charge with 134, $8 for the hose, and $8 for the system flush.  For a frand total of $120. this is only if everything else is in good working condition.  I had to replace the compressor for $300.  

Pete

Offline kyledyr

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a/c redo
« Reply #7 on: August 01, 2006, 05:11:55 AM »
Has anyone been able to find either new or rebuilt A/C compressors for a realistic price?  I have a '81 305, and I need a compressor to get my A/C pumping again.  Stupid Sacramento. Last week it was 103 degrees at 9 PM.
"If you want me to be eco-friendly, make eco-friendly not suck."
'81 305 Trans Am WS6

Offline whwright

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« Reply #8 on: August 01, 2006, 09:16:23 AM »
103 at 9pm??  YIKES!

For my 71 Chevy truck, I bought a remanufactured compressor at O'Reilly Auto for about a hundred bucks.  I'm not sure what auto parts chains are available in Sacremento, but surely the prices are "reasonable."

If you can't find one locally, AutoPartsGiant.com has part number 2102 for $125 + shipping (A6 compressor) or part number 2232 for $150 + shipping (R4 compressor).  Or there's always eBay...

Keep in mind that you will likely need to replace the dryer, and possibly the orifice tube.

Wayne.
1978 Trans Am
1975 Grand Prix
1971 Chevy C20
1972 ...uhem... mustang

Offline Eagle 1

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a/c redo
« Reply #9 on: August 01, 2006, 12:35:50 PM »
Quote from: "h3bubba"

     Once you get everything back together, charge it up to 3.25lbs of R-134a.  They only sell it in 12oz bottles and 16oz is a pound so do the math.    

Hope this helps.

Pete

When replacing R12 with R134, you should only charge your system with %80 of 134.  Systems vary, but most TA's hold about 3.25 lbs of R12, so you would only want to put in about %80 of that, a little over 2.5 lbs of R134.  
The pressure is different with 134.  If you overcharge it you will certainly have problems.
Its best to add two cans, and then start using your gages after that to determine how much you will need based on the ambient air temp and altitude.
" He done good didnt he Fred?"
"I'm in pursuit of a black Trans Am. He's all mine so stay outta the way."

Offline kyledyr

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« Reply #10 on: August 01, 2006, 02:41:35 PM »
Quote from: "whwright"

If you can't find one locally, AutoPartsGiant.com has part number 2102 for $125 + shipping (A6 compressor) or part number 2232 for $150 + shipping (R4 compressor).  Or there's always eBay...

Wayne.

I'm gonna be honest. I have no clue what the difference between an A6 and an R4 compressor is. And I don't know which I need. :)
"If you want me to be eco-friendly, make eco-friendly not suck."
'81 305 Trans Am WS6

Offline whwright

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a/c redo
« Reply #11 on: August 01, 2006, 03:14:43 PM »
Unfortunately, when you look for a compressor for an '81 T/A with a Chebby 305 you get either part.  And they don't easily interchange.

The A6 compressor is basically the "old style" that is about a foot long and weighs a million pounds.  Some folks think of it as the long and skinny one.

The R4 compressor is the "new style."  It's a little bit bigger diameter, and about as long as it is round (if that makes sense).

Post a picture of your engine compartment and the folks on this forum will tell you which one you have in no time at all.
1978 Trans Am
1975 Grand Prix
1971 Chevy C20
1972 ...uhem... mustang

Offline kyledyr

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a/c redo
« Reply #12 on: August 01, 2006, 04:10:43 PM »
Sorry for being so ignorant on this, guys. I don't know the first thing about air conditioning. I sort of understand the process, but I don't know what any of the parts look like or where to locate them in the engine bay. So let's hope one of the pictures got it:



"If you want me to be eco-friendly, make eco-friendly not suck."
'81 305 Trans Am WS6

Offline ta78w72

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a/c redo
« Reply #13 on: August 01, 2006, 04:32:44 PM »
kyledyr, the first picture is your steering gear box (lower) and power steering pump (upper right).  Second picture is your alternator (upper) and smog pump???? (Lower).  Third picture is part of the A/C system...the accumulator?? and you're missing the compressor.  Fourth picture...master brake cylinder to the right.

Your A/C system was freon.  You can convert to R4...have a shop do it if you want A/C.

To be honest with you, I can't even see where the compression is suppose to mount.  But it sort of looks like it mounts on the drivers side.  Someone with an 81 will have to step in.  But I think the power steering pump pulley drives it.

Offline whwright

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a/c redo
« Reply #14 on: August 01, 2006, 04:33:17 PM »
You're gonna have your hands full with this project, because your compressor is missing.  It should be on the driver's side of the engine, connected to the hoses hanging around near the valve cover.  It looks like there's a missing clamp where I believe someone added a filter somewhere along the way.  Are there any loose brackets in the trunk or someplace like that?

You're definitely going to need a new dryer and orifice tube, and the entire system will need to be flushed.

When I get home this evening I'll try to take a picture of a Chevy truck with the A/C compressor that looks like I think yours should look.

Wayne.
1978 Trans Am
1975 Grand Prix
1971 Chevy C20
1972 ...uhem... mustang