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60% original paint.....scratched but not damaged? That doesn't agree and possibly doesn't even qualify as a any of that survivor crap. If you can enjoy it as a nice original car, do just that. If it needs tidying up so it's presentable enough to be able to take to the shops without ridicule, do that also. If you don't want it, sell it. Let someone else lose money on something that they choose.
Absolutely, paint the poor thing. No one should be rewarded for not maintaining a vehicle unless it's in a museum. And yet we give them accolades and trophies for owning a piece of crap that has been parked in the sun for 30 years on rotted tyres and has the original plug leads that were due for tossing decades earlier. Yes, paint it, look after it. Originality is great where the condition allows its use without holding the rest of the vehicle back. It's your car, if you don't have an opinion on it, I'm not sure you'll find one on here to agree on.
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Parts Wanted / Re: Wanted/water pump pulley
« Last post by Aus78Formula on Today at 03:48:53 AM »
Start a new post for what you need, no point asking guys questions who haven't been here in years, long gone.
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DriveTrain / Re: Advice on 200 4R overdrive transmission
« Last post by Aus78Formula on Today at 03:20:31 AM »
Canada is quite local if you have to ship a transmission around the world.
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DriveTrain / Re: Advice on 200 4R overdrive transmission
« Last post by Nexus on Today at 03:17:28 AM »
lol...I know of a great place to bring in my hometown but Northern Ontario Canada is a bit of a drive for you, just to get your tranny fixed. Let us know how you make out.
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Suspension / Re: Roundin off bleeder valve...
« Last post by Nexus on Today at 03:13:23 AM »
Heat is about the only way you'll get it off...Want to heat the calliper (disc brakes) / wheel cylinder (drum brakes) more then the bleed screw...this will expand the metal around the bleed screw and should be good to get the screw to move with the vice grips. Worst case scenario, you'll have to heat the brake line (unless they are new), remove it and then remove the calliper / wheel cylinder and do it on the bench. Sometimes it's easier and way less frustrating to just replace it all with new parts (when you can afford it) and start from there. All the brake components work then. I live in the north and everything rusts up and gets seized. Done this job lots of times on various vehicles.

you don't need a big cutting torch and a propane torch may work...heat combined with shocking the metal with a cold wet rag will also help too. Sometimes I have done several combinations of things.

 
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Suspension / Re: Roundin off bleeder valve...
« Last post by Aus78Formula on July 16, 2018, 07:18:12 PM »
Where is it?
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DriveTrain / Re: Advice on 200 4R overdrive transmission
« Last post by hugginjugs on July 16, 2018, 06:57:58 PM »
Thanks. This is what I'm looking for. I'm in Central Indiana. I'll give them a call and see if they can help me.
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DriveTrain / Re: Advice on 200 4R overdrive transmission
« Last post by LOMILETA on July 16, 2018, 01:52:59 PM »
Where are you from? The guy in my area is Vince Janis  http://janistransmission.com   He is the go to guy for all of the Turbo Regal guys in Ohio. The one I put in my 78 is going on 12 years ago, is working great according to the new owners.
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DriveTrain / Re: 1980 301T wont start
« Last post by 78w72 on July 16, 2018, 11:27:46 AM »
ok, sounded like the same issue the guy over at 301g is having. 

as long as youre on the comp stroke, the mark on the crank is close enough to get it to fire, then you would set final timing after running.  sounds like you did everything right.  you can pick any terminal on the cap for #1, looking at the cap from the front of teh car, usually the 1'oclock terminal is #1 based on the spark plug wire lengths to fit best & vac canister is on the right side.

if you have fuel, compression & spark, & its close to initial timing, it should start.  what are you setting initial timing to?  what is the compression? using #1 spark plug on driver side front piston? vac lines good?  PEVR working?

also, its probably ok for testing, but get rid of that glass filter, they are notorious for leaking or breaking & causing fires!  get a metal canister type or one of the nicer aluminum inline filters.   

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DriveTrain / Re: Advice on 200 4R overdrive transmission
« Last post by hugginjugs on July 16, 2018, 09:00:25 AM »
Quadrajet on an Edelbrock performer. I'm using the old kickdown cable bracket to hold the TV cable on a custom mount. The cable is level and straight with the stock throttle lever. The bracketry that Monster gave me for the cable was a joke! I had a local transmission shop try adjusting the cable also. Same results. Adjusting as recommended results in stack shifting. Tightening the cable one click at a time changes little until a point where the shift slams into the next gear. At that point the trans will not return to first gear, taking off in second. Also, the external lockup feature that they installed does not work. 12 volts and a ground through a provided lighted switch blows the 10amp fuse as soon as overdrive engages. This unit was supposed to be fully tested before shipping. I call BS! I have been uable to speak to a tech at Monster Transmission. I was informed that no one will speak with me until I sign an "Order Verification" document that they emailed me.It simply outlines the things they wont cover. WOWenty! I have no confidence that this unit will hold up in the long term even if it can be made to shift properly. As I stated, I'm done with Monster. I'm looking for a professional that some one has had good results with. There are quite a few 200 4R "experts" to choose from.  :-\

Thanks

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