Hitman's Pontiac Trans Am Forum
Trans Am Information => Trans Am Tech => Paint and Body => Topic started by: HermanMunster on February 22, 2015, 09:48:19 PM
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I've read a lot of different methods to get the flush mounted glass look, most of which include some kind of tape to raise the channel. I decided to use 1/2"x3/4" flat bar.
(http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc147/bandt77/IMG_2788_zpsfb2da772.jpg) (http://s215.photobucket.com/user/bandt77/media/IMG_2788_zpsfb2da772.jpg.html)
I found some universal weather stripping on ebay I'm thinking of using. It might not work in the tight corner though.
(http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc147/bandt77/IMG_2789_zps61708a55.jpg) (http://s215.photobucket.com/user/bandt77/media/IMG_2789_zps61708a55.jpg.html)
First step was removing the tabs that held the chrome moldings in place around the perimeter
(http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc147/bandt77/IMG_2829_zps6c0f4fac.jpg) (http://s215.photobucket.com/user/bandt77/media/IMG_2829_zps6c0f4fac.jpg.html)
I used a 6' piece to start the rear, making slots every half inch about half way through to help bend around the contour.
(http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc147/bandt77/IMG_2832_zpsbbe71502.jpg) (http://s215.photobucket.com/user/bandt77/media/IMG_2832_zpsbbe71502.jpg.html)
(http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc147/bandt77/IMG_2835_zps0a4df01d.jpg) (http://s215.photobucket.com/user/bandt77/media/IMG_2835_zps0a4df01d.jpg.html)
(http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc147/bandt77/IMG_2840_zps7faeed43.jpg) (http://s215.photobucket.com/user/bandt77/media/IMG_2840_zps7faeed43.jpg.html)
(http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc147/bandt77/IMG_2842_zpsb36d6dbb.jpg) (http://s215.photobucket.com/user/bandt77/media/IMG_2842_zpsb36d6dbb.jpg.html)
(http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc147/bandt77/IMG_2856_zpsb1d73beb.jpg) (http://s215.photobucket.com/user/bandt77/media/IMG_2856_zpsb1d73beb.jpg.html)
(http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc147/bandt77/IMG_2859_zps53a29823.jpg) (http://s215.photobucket.com/user/bandt77/media/IMG_2859_zps53a29823.jpg.html)
It took a few cuts on all sides, and lots of vise grips, to get it to contour around the body. Its a lot of compound curves, and the tight curves in the corner took a few more closer cuts. I clamped the whole thing down and welded each cut, then I'll take it out and grind them smooth again.
(http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc147/bandt77/IMG_2862_zps133ac917.jpg) (http://s215.photobucket.com/user/bandt77/media/IMG_2862_zps133ac917.jpg.html)
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Nice post, will be interesting to watch progress on this thread.
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Are you going to be able to use the factory glass? The reason I ask is that I know for a fact at least one of the Year One BR Edition bought rear glass custom made in India and the 2 plats separated causing bubbles and black vinyl was to cut and applied to cover the flaw.
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Didnt I see someone getting flush glass by using an universal rubber seal that goes around the window? Might not look as nice though
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In a nutshell you don't need to do all that work. The size of molding you need is T-108. A reputable glass installer can then raise the glass using a taller cut tip for his urethane and use 4-8 chunks of foam to help set the height. 2 guys setting the glass can make sure they don't press the glass down to far. I have done 5 of these locally. One thing about these you need to keep in. Mind is that the molding on the back glass is now going to catch wind so it's going to need to be glued down on the forward facing sides to not give you a flapping noise. Basically if your windshield seal is set cut for 1in tall and 5/8 wide at the base using a thick viscosity urethane, your golden!
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In a nutshell you don't need to do all that work. The size of molding you need is T-108. A reputable glass installer can then raise the glass using a taller cut tip for his urethane and use 4-8 chunks of foam to help set the height. 2 guys setting the glass can make sure they don't press the glass down to far. I have done 5 of these locally. One thing about these you need to keep in. Mind is that the molding on the back glass is now going to catch wind so it's going to need to be glued down on the forward facing sides to not give you a flapping noise. Basically if your windshield seal is set cut for 1in tall and 5/8 wide at the base using a thick viscosity urethane, your golden!
do you have pics of this?
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No I' own a glass shop. These are the things I do on a daily basis. So for me there's no desire to take pictures. In fact I own 5 trans ams no real desire to post pics of them either.
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Well pictures help visualize ideas. I personally didn't want 1/2" of rubber or foam underneath the glass, and like working with metal, so thought I'd try this. To answer a previous question, yes I will still be using the original glass. By raising the glass uniformly around the channel, nothing will really change the way the glass sits. If you look in that second picture from my first post, I set the glass 1/2" from the bottom edge, and that gave me a consistent gap around the window edge.
I'm still grinding the welds on the first piece, but as soon as I'm done I'll post a pic of the finished product, and progress with the bottom piece.
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Finished with all the welding and grinding off the first piece, now on to the bottom piece
(http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc147/bandt77/93F187EB-8839-4C0C-B5DC-908CE6D99F0C_zpsyefx5dvt.jpg) (http://s215.photobucket.com/user/bandt77/media/93F187EB-8839-4C0C-B5DC-908CE6D99F0C_zpsyefx5dvt.jpg.html)
(http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc147/bandt77/CB6923D2-90CB-4118-AEAE-5FDF803DF63F_zpsc9v0v40m.jpg) (http://s215.photobucket.com/user/bandt77/media/CB6923D2-90CB-4118-AEAE-5FDF803DF63F_zpsc9v0v40m.jpg.html)
(http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc147/bandt77/17055DE9-8BEF-4606-B658-EE2C357AF8EE_zpsjcy0yegw.jpg) (http://s215.photobucket.com/user/bandt77/media/17055DE9-8BEF-4606-B658-EE2C357AF8EE_zpsjcy0yegw.jpg.html)
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Made some more progress. Tack welded a majority of the pieces, and finally set the glass on. I'll have to smooth out some areas but I laid a straight edge on the nicest fitting part to show the flow. More progress to come.
(http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc147/bandt77/DECDE5FA-1557-4289-9E92-CF3C71CBA401_zpsreajebnw.jpg) (http://s215.photobucket.com/user/bandt77/media/DECDE5FA-1557-4289-9E92-CF3C71CBA401_zpsreajebnw.jpg.html)
(http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc147/bandt77/DE2E265D-D877-4720-87DE-C3E0D038105C_zpsakollocb.jpg) (http://s215.photobucket.com/user/bandt77/media/DE2E265D-D877-4720-87DE-C3E0D038105C_zpsakollocb.jpg.html)
(http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc147/bandt77/A98AD1E8-F1D1-4920-88E4-D96B43C051AE_zpsbpr4i1er.jpg) (http://s215.photobucket.com/user/bandt77/media/A98AD1E8-F1D1-4920-88E4-D96B43C051AE_zpsbpr4i1er.jpg.html)
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I am going to do some thing similar but I am not going to use any rubber . I am going to have a gap all round about 6mm wide then smooth the mastic . a couple of mock up pics on my mates ta which I am in the middle of spraying.
(http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii11/kevinbreedon/3FEE4FAA-2056-4E72-8DAC-7FB749E85D66.jpg) (http://s260.photobucket.com/user/kevinbreedon/media/3FEE4FAA-2056-4E72-8DAC-7FB749E85D66.jpg.html)
(http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii11/kevinbreedon/CCFAF6A1-282D-4E64-BF23-BD6284041D55.jpg) (http://s260.photobucket.com/user/kevinbreedon/media/CCFAF6A1-282D-4E64-BF23-BD6284041D55.jpg.html)
(http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii11/kevinbreedon/4E925721-43B5-4243-958E-E183C8AC49B3.jpg) (http://s260.photobucket.com/user/kevinbreedon/media/4E925721-43B5-4243-958E-E183C8AC49B3.jpg.html)
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Don't fo to leave 3/8 between the glass and pinchweld for urethane!
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anymore up dates great work so far
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Prob busy adding 3/8 of filler to surrounding panels!
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how is this project getting on any problems come up
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HermanMunster hasn't logged on to the forum since his last post above almost a year ago.