Topic: need a tool for steering wheel removal ?

[Grand73Am]

You're very welcome.

[jtwoodro007]

Grand did you have to cut the pin from the contact kit.  The instructions on the bag don't specify a length so I assume it is installed as is.  Just wanted to see what you did.

Thanks!

[Grand73Am]

So far I haven't had to use the contact kit, since I've had enough original parts. I did buy one of the GM kits though, and the pin in my kit is too long. I have measured an original pin from a TA tilt column I have, and it's very close to 3/4" long, so I'd cut at 3/4".

[jtwoodro007]

Awesome! I'll see if 3/4" fits better.

[colonel]

Sorry for bringing up an old topic again but I think it makes more sense than starting a new one as quite a bit has already been documented well.

Can somebody please explain how exactly the horn mechanism works?

I have not been able to drop the contact pin into the channel head first because the head of the pin seems to be bigger/wider than the channel. Hence I did not lock the plastic part in place because if I do the contact pin is no longer spring loaded. I installed the rest of the assembly and realised that the horn only sounds when I push the horn button on the steering wheel really hard into a certain position. In all other positions the horn won´t sound.

I would like to understand

• what exactly makes contact where (yes, the contact pin to the "tripod pack", but where does that tripod make contact to the steering column and is the spring part of the circuit, too?)
• if there may be different head diameters of the contact pin referring to various GM models or build years. I have a Doorman part for GM. Is it common the head needs to be grinded and shortetend to fit propperly? That would be poor!

Thanks, Alex

[Grand73Am]

The pin head(the wide part) should be approximately .235" diameter, so a little less than a 1/4". The length should be 3/4". If the pin head is larger diameter, it's not the right one. Replacement pins of the correct diameter sometimes still have to be shortened to the 3/4", since they make them longer so they'll fit more applications and you cut to size.

The pin head should fit inside the tube and move freely if it's the correct size. You must lock it into the notch in the tube with that little black plastic lock. The pin needs to spring up and down, so it can't be stuck tight. If your pin is the correct size and still doesn't fit, your cancelling cam tube is probably damaged, so you'd need to replace the cancelling cam, which the tube is part of.

This is how it works. When you install the wheel hub, the tube and pin sticks up through the hole in the bottom of the hub of course. (Be sure that the little alignment mark in the center of the hub lines up with the alignment mark on the top of the steering shaft when you install the hub). Because of the protruding tab on the tripod, when you install the tripod, the tab must fit into the channel in the side of the hub, so the tripod only fits one way. That's important since it must only be installed in that orientation. The tripod sits over the spring loaded pin, so the pin is always touching the bottom of the tripod. When you install the steering shaft nut in the center of the tripod, the tripod  is grounded to the steering shaft and the hub. The tripod is spring loaded too. The part of the tripod that the pin contacts on the bottom is isolated from the ground. But when you push down on the tripod, the discs inside the tripod make the ground connection which transmits a ground signal to your contact pin which is distributed from there out to the horn relay, and your horns blow.

[colonel]

Thank you for your post, very helpful! Sorry for answering only today.

I clipped the pin to 3/4" and filed down the head somewhat to make it fit into the tube. I also took off about 2 or 3 coils of the spring to make it easier to attach the little plastic part. Takes some time to get it in as the parts have a tendency of shooting all over the car. However, done at least, works like a charme.

As to the spring loaded tripod: yes, the 3-layer pack moves, but only a little bit. When I want to sound the horn, I need to push the button to one side or up und down rather than to push it in. Is this normal for the T/A?

[Grand73Am]

Glad you're getting it sorted out.

The 3 layer pack in the tri-pod assembly does only move a small distance. There's a "belleville" spring inside, which is metal disc that it is formed with a shallow conical shape, creating an "oil can" effect. It pops down when you push the button and springs back up when you release it. It doesn't have to move far to engage or disengage the ground connection.

The horn button should work no matter whether you push it straight in or on the edges, since pushing any downward direction should collapse the belleville spring and make the ground contact for the horn to blow. So, it should work by pushing straight in. Since it doesn't, my guess is there's something wrong with the tri-pod, and you might want to try another one.

[colonel]

If I find the time somewhere along the way I'll disassemble it once again - maybe. :-) For the time being I'm glad that the horn sounds at all and I can turn to other issues. Thx again.

[Wallington]

Maybe the contact ring needs a clean up, if a level and flush touch doesn't work but when it touches on a slight angle does.

[Grand73Am]

That may be difficult. I was curious whether the assembly could be taken apart, so the inner discs could be cleaned up if needed. The plastic tri-pod part will unscrew from the assembly easily. But the disc pack is a sealed unit...looks like it might be spot welded together, so it looks like it's not worth the effort to try to take it apart to try to fix it.