Topic: a bit of work on my 77 TA

[JupiterBandit]

crap...so I'm gonna have to make the part under the rear seats outta sheet metal?  Crap...ugh.  Nothing easy!  I measured up the firewall area for thickness as that was the only place I could gain access to see metal thickness.  It appears that the pans, firewall etc. are .035-.039".  Based off this I decided that I will be getting 19 gage sheet metal for my patching, and not for the rear under seat pans.  Another question just came to mind:  Is this weld through primer available at places like O'Reily's and is it to be used where ever seams between original metal and new are made?  Thanks for the help!

  I hope this helps,

 Do not make this technical,  Buy the correct year year full pans. Cut out the bottoms of your pans in the car per my video, drop the newpans in and screw them down to the crossmebers, use a thin blade and cut out the pans as one piece. Make sure you screw the corners and anywhere its not laying flat. Then you'll be able to remove the excees piece and begin spot welding

[Schroeder]

I thought you said the full pans with toe boards (which also has under rear seat) were not correct for the car though.  There was someone on here who purchased pans from the link I posted and was putting them in...can't seem to find that information though.  I'm still looking for who forwarded me to that company to see if they tried the pans.

[JupiterBandit]

What I said is the pans you showed me with the toe boards were inccorect.

What I am saying is buy the 1977 full pan with out the toe boards and with out the rear seat pan.

[JupiterBandit]

If you look at my video you will see which pans I bought....

$99 per side from Ames Performance

[joe d]

i just did full 77" length left and right and trunk in my 80 and have to say NEVER AGAIN not to mention an a$$hole removed the originals and folded shop so had to finish what someone else started, was a nightmare to get crossmembers lined up and attached, also a bitch to get back to rockers. i would listen to Jupiter

[Schroeder]

i just did full 77" length left and right and trunk in my 80 and have to say NEVER AGAIN not to mention an a$$hole removed the originals and folded shop so had to finish what someone else started, was a nightmare to get crossmembers lined up and attached, also a bitch to get back to rockers. i would listen to Jupiter

Alright.  Well coming from two members I have to say I'm convinced.  I will not buy the full length boards from sherman and I will instead buy full floor pans along with other used portions such as toe boards and under rear seat pans.  Sound like the best course of action my friends?

[JupiterBandit]

yes

[Schroeder]

yes

Sorry jupiter.  I purhcased a fulll length board that includes toes and rear underseat pans.  I'll take some pics.  Hopefully I get some time to work on it this upcoming weekend.  We may still be harvesting next weekend though.

[JupiterBandit]

Not a problem. I hope they work out for you. I'm just too particular with my car. It's a curse. I wish I could have used a full pan but they don't make one for a 77.

I can't wait to see it. I can say I was highly motivated today and started the pan on the driver's side. Once I'm done with the pans I cna paint the bottom of the car and move on to my subframe and rear end. I'm hoping to have it painted in the spring.

Keep those updates coming

[Schroeder]

I hope to get to cutting the pan out this weekend, but we may still be in the fields.  The pan I ordered supposedly only has a little different space where the cat goes.  My car doesn't have a cat so I'm not worried about it.

[JupiterBandit]

it'll drop in the same.

My advice, cut out the whole floor area leaving the side walls of the old pan and just drop that sucker in on top. Once you do that you'll feel a lot better about the job. then take your time cutting out the side walls for a perfect fit.

I used a sawzall to cut the bulk of it out.

[eroc022]

I hope to get to cutting the pan out this weekend, but we may still be in the fields.  The pan I ordered supposedly only has a little different space where the cat goes.  My car doesn't have a cat so I'm not worried about it.

Your are going to find out the pans are different... where the front section of the rear frame is, and I think the front crossmember will be different, on the passenger side.....

[Schroeder]

I hope to get to cutting the pan out this weekend, but we may still be in the fields.  The pan I ordered supposedly only has a little different space where the cat goes.  My car doesn't have a cat so I'm not worried about it.

Your are going to find out the pans are different... where the front section of the rear frame is, and I think the front crossmember will be different, on the passenger side.....

So what does this mean for me?  What will have to be altered?  Should I see if I can cancel this order?  They'll probably be really mad at me, but I have to do what I have to do I supposed.  The people from sherman said that if I didn't have a catalytic converter I would not have to make any modifications to the pan.

[JupiterBandit]

The only difference I know is the pans you got are for a 70-74. It doesn't have a hump because they didn't use a converter. So you'll have more leg room is all. The toe boards will look different but should fit all the same.

Year one used 1970-1974 pans in their 77's and said they worked no problem.

You are fine. Keep what you got and just press forward. It's a floor pan, no one will see it and it will fit no problem.

[JupiterBandit]

 I'm OCD, so I went out of my way to get a real 77 SE.  My OCD makes it tough because I must have original everything. I wish I could use 1970-1974 pans. It would have been easier. So when I try to do something it's overly perfect. Every seam matched up on my install. That I am happy aboput but it took me way longer than it should have.