Topic: Turn signal switch? and Circuit on back of speedo/tach?

[evob]

Hey guess, I'm new here to the forum so I'm sorry if this gets put in the wrong place. I know there are a couple different topics on the turn signal but mines a bit different and I can't seem to find the answer. The problem. So I have two problems. The first is that when I turn my turn signal on it does what is suppose to. But once I'm done the turn signal stays on. And I have to manually turn it off. So what is the fix? I think it is the turn signal switch but I am not sure.
The other is that on the back of the metal case that holds the speedometer and the tac, there is a plastic film with copper leading to different electrical places. I need a new one but I have no idea where to find one or what it is even called. Help?

Thanks for any help,
-Brant

[Wallington]

Main gauge cluster circuit printed circuit boards, not sure what model you have, you just have to pick the type that matches your year and gauge option. You may even be able to read the original part number on the old one.

http://www.firebirdcentral.com/FIREBIRD_CIRCUIT_BOARDS_s/366.htm

[evob]

Aus78formula, thank you, that's what I was looking for. I didn't want to call it a circuit board and be horribly wrong, and I've,never seen anything like it before (wasn't born yet). I have a 79 trans am, I think I remember the part number being there but it was a couple weeks so I'll have to get back in there and see.

Do you have any ideas on the turn signal maybe?

Thanks,
-Brant

[Wallington]

Do you mean the flasher doesn't cancel itself after a corner? That could be either the springs in the flasher harness or the cam itself, or both, being worn. You can get the springs separately although by the time you pulled the column down a little it may be worthwhile to renew some assemblies.
Just be sure that you select parts that suit 79TA with high beam in stalk and tilt or standard column, in case it matters.

http://www.fieros.de/jpg/col8.jpg

http://www.fieros.de/jpg/col9.jpg

http://www.autopartsdb.net/assets/images/ProductImg/G/G3295.jpg

[Wallington]

http://fbodywarehouse.com/fbw/product.php?productid=1725&cat=0&page=1

[evob]

Thanks Aus79Formula. Do you know of a good guide for the disassembly? I found this one (http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=24962.0) but the pictures are not there. Can you help?

[Wallington]

For sure, im not home, but do a search for GM tilt column rebuild on here and other forums, plenty out there with good pics although you only need the first few steps.

[mikekop]

While on the topic, Aus, do you know if the plastic "ring" or what it's called, that the turn signal lever bolts on to can be replaced without changing the whole assembly? Mine is cracked, which makes the lever move more than the "switch", in turn making it hard to get the turn signal to engage. What would that part be called?

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[evob]

While on the topic, Aus, do you know if the plastic "ring" or what it's called, that the turn signal lever bolts on to can be replaced without changing the whole assembly? Mine is cracked, which makes the lever move more than the "switch", in turn making it hard to get the turn signal to engage. What would that part be called?

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Hey mikekop, are you referring to this "ring" ( http://www.fieros.de/jpg/col9.jpg )?

[mikekop]

While on the topic, Aus, do you know if the plastic "ring" or what it's called, that the turn signal lever bolts on to can be replaced without changing the whole assembly? Mine is cracked, which makes the lever move more than the "switch", in turn making it hard to get the turn signal to engage. What would that part be called?

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Hey mikekop, are you referring to this "ring" ( http://www.fieros.de/jpg/col9.jpg )?

Yes, the white plastic frame with the springs and all. Mine is cracked where the turn signal lever ends, so when I try to engage the turn signal, the crack opens, allowing the lever to turn around the screw instead of engaging the turn signal.

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[eroc022]

Turn signal switch.... Whole thing will need replaced, not bad job worst of it is removing the wheel and hub....

[evob]

Eroc022 is right. The whole thing will need to be replaced. I actually just bought one a couple days ago. I bought mine on rockauto.com for about $15 plus shipping. And it fit in perfect. You can rent a hub puller from AutoZone for $20 but you get it back when you return it. My problem was trying to get the lock plate and lock ring back on haha. Fun fun!!!

[mikekop]

Removing the wheel and hub is not a problem, done it a couple of times now, trying to glue the crack and the lever onto the plastic ring. Found out it was broken when I replaced the lever. So this is not the "cancelling cam" then?
Second question, when ordering, there's the choice of with or without cornering lights?

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[mikekop]

Guess I'll order it and replace it when I replaced my ignition lock, it doesn't need a key to operate...
I have my own hub puller, kinda hard to rent it at Auto Zone, hint: the Atlantic Ocean is in the way... Hehe...

Sorry for hijacking this thread BTW!

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[Angelo]

Our cars never had cornering lights, but if one is cheaper and quality like SMP brand without the "t" in the part number then get that, wires will just not plug into anything. Spend a little more on a quality one now and never worry about it for 30+ years. I got a cheap one from Autozone and I fear I may be back in my steering column sooner than later.