Topic: Front Brakes Will Not Bleed. Why?

[Grand73Am]

You really don't have to mess with that button on the prop valve if you are using the pedal pump method of bleeding. I've successfully bled the brakes on many cars with the pedal pumping method with a clear jar and clear vinyl hose, and don't touch the prop valve.

If you pressure bleed, and maybe vacuum bleed, then you may have to hold the button down. I tried that once, but then the button starting leaking around it, so I'm not doing that again.

[joe d]

dont go replacing parts that are not needed, get the new master, bench bleed it and see what happens, i seriously think you have collapsed hoses

[joe d]

dont go replacing parts that are not needed, get the new master, bench bleed it and see what happens, i seriously think you have collapsed hoses

sory, that was for aus but still do not go changing parts out when we can diagnos the real issue and fix it

[Wallington]

Thanks Guys, no I'm not about to do anything or pull anything, especially until I know I have to. The front callipers are rebuilt, all new lines, new booster and mc, and new hoses. One thing that wasn't rebuilt was the prop valve and I don't want to use those brass block replacements but not sure if rebuild kits available either. It was all in working order, just been unused for maybe 3 years. The problem with checking brakes is that fresh brake fluid is going to end up everywhere, ruining paint where ever it gets and you just know the problem will be elsewhere!

[oldskoolubr]

Hey Aus I just found out that the newer Dot 5 I think it is, is silicone based and not supposed to damage Paint.   Not sure if it's true but worth looking into?

[Wallington]

Ok that's interesting, wonder if it's compatible with older systems. You also have to be careful of some of the Japanese 'Dot 4' variants that use the same name but are not suitable. I'm currently out of ideas and patience so just walked away from it, no one else around to lend a hand so the cover is back on for a few more months!

[oldskoolubr]

Wish i was closer bud I would gladly help you out!  Your about a continent or two away tho?! 

[Wallington]

Haha only a holiday away, let me know when you're due to arrive, I'll get out the good plates!

Nah the thing is doing my head in at present, everytime something gets rebuilt or sent away to be worked on it comes back and seems to be worse.

[oldskoolubr]

If nothing else I can be your hookup over here and ship to you where others won't?  I have a step sister and hubby that live there, not sure where cuz they are kinda stuck up and we aren't that close! 

[joe d]

Aus, you can connect some clear tube to the bleeder valves and drain into a container, the brake system on these cars is extremely simple so your issue is quite easy to solve, when you say new lines are you including the actual hoses from lines to caliper

[Wallington]

I need to get some more clear tubing, makes bleeding them easier too by not having to block everything like jar up so high and risk spills!
Yes, new brake hoses to callipers and 1/2 the hard lines throughout system replaced with new, any old lines cleaned and flushed.

[L8KRFAN]

I'm currently out of ideas and patience so just walked away from it,

That's what I did. Two weekend's ago I spent both Sat and Sunday trying to get the brakes right. It was incredibly hot (something like 105 degrees) under my canopy and when things were'nt working I just said F-it... I'm done for now. The car now sits in the garage. Lol!
My batteries feel recharged so I'll try again this weekend.

[L8KRFAN]

Last night (at around 9pm!) UPS delivered the new m/c I ordred from Summit. I joyfully opend the box to see a beautiful blue box that said "Bendix - a Honeywell company" followed by the dreaded three words:

Made in China. Lol! Probably made at the same factory as the leaky Pro Stop m/c I got at Pep Boys.

Well, I was going to exchange the Pro Stop anyways so let's see how this one works.

[Wallington]

Still no luck with mine but believe it could be now the front caliper pistons sticking. These were renewed several years ago but the car has sat for several more years without being operational.

I removed one off the spindle to watch it operate. It applies onto a block of timber fine but releases only half the distance to which it applied. You can then watch it go on and off but not fully release. When cracking the pressure on the bleeder valve to release some fluid it still does not release so must be sticking in the piston and seal rather than from fluid pressure issues.

Next problem is what to do now, remove them for another rebuild kit with pistons and seals and see if it comes good. Or purchase complete rebuilt units and swap over for around the cost of the rebuild kit, still not at all cheap over here though, around $180 per side and our dollar is similar to USD. Otherwise, I'm not sure if there is an aftermarket caliper setup that replaces the stock unit, still works with stock disc rotor and spindle that is actually an improvement and not just because it's powdercoated red!

[joe d]

did you rebuild them or have the rebuilt, you can probably just freshen them up without rebuild kits, a calipe rebuild kit here is about $10 us dollars and takes about 20 minutes to rebuild a caliper