I referenced the service manual (I don't think the Chiltons type books will explain how to do it right). You can now get a USB thumbdrive with the entire service manual on it from this site.
I can give you a quick run-down though, assuming calipers are already on the car with rotors and pads in place.
1. With the ebrake lever off of the caliper, ratchet with a wrench (turn in the direction the caliper is pulled when the e-brake cable is pulled) until the caliper pads make contact with the rotors and stop them from spinning by hand. Repeat with the other caliper. Remember, one ratchets clockwise, the other ratchets counter clockwise.
Just a site note, when you loaded the calipers (put the pads in them), you had to push the caliper piston back, turning counter clockwise while pushing the piston in. If you simply use a c clamp and compress the rear piston, you more than likely damaged the ratcheting mechanism inside the caliper.
test ratcheting the caliper also gives you the ability to test that it is working.
Just another comment, you can clamp down on the ratcheting mechanism with a wrench until it snugs up the pads on the rotors, but as soon as you turn back off a 1/8-1/4 turn, the piston can flex back enough to allow for the rear rotor to spin again.
2. Once you have the caliper adjusted with a wrench, re-assemble the emergency brake lever parts to the caliper. You will position them so when pulled they will lock the pads against the rotor (as you did with your wrench). When pushed back you should be able to turn the wheel.
If your lever parts are bent or damaged, I highly recommend getting a set from scarebird on ebay, they are way stronger and plated:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pontiac-Trans-Am-Seville-WS6-rear-disc-brake-caliper-parts-spring-lever-bracket-/371086849463When all said and done the ebraake brackets will be bolted onto the rotor with the spring loaded pushing the lever back enough that the pads are not locked against the rotor. You should be able to lake a large pair of pliers and pull on the ratchet lever (compressing the spring) and manually tighten the rear pads to lock the rear wheel.
Tip: I used 3 zip ties to compress the spring I got from scarebird's kit. Once in place, I cut the zip ties. Don't think that's necessary for the factory springs.
3. Attach the emergency brake calipers (make sure they move freely before doing so), then adjust under the drivers side of the car (remember to adjust with the emergency brake of)
4. Here comes the fun part. Engage the emergency brake, then check to see if both wheels are locked. As I recall, the first time I did this it didn't lock, I had to release and readjust after one pull as everything got stretched into place. The second time was the charm, I only had a very small amount of adjustment to make after that.
5. Repeat engaging and unlocking the emergency brakes a dozen or so times, this firms up the ratcheting mechanism in the calipers.
6. Bleed the brakes with the emergency brake set.