Hitman's Pontiac Trans Am Forum
Trans Am Photos => Restoration Projects => Topic started by: 89flyboy on March 06, 2011, 06:25:18 PM
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Hi guys I am a brand new member to this forum, but have been surfing it for awhile. About two months ago I bought a 1977 t/a 400 4 speed. It needs a full restoration. I bought it for 800 dollars. It has no motor or trans. I bought a 75 Pontiac 400 complete motor for 200 I have started tearing it down for a restoration but its going a lot slower then I thought/ hoped.
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Here are some pics of the motor I bought
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the interior is in great shape!!! Just needs a bit of cleaning.
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How she is looking currently. Sorry for all the pics
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Looks like a good start. Keep us posted.
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Will do I checked the floor pans looks like no rust at least from the underside. Popped the truck a few surface spots but nothing bad. I sprayed the firewall with some rustolium back and hate the way it turned out. So I have been sanding paint for a few days to take it all off. I went and got some eastwood underhood black so I will see how that turns out as soon as its 65 so I can spray the self etching primer.
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on your firewall try oven cleaner on it first. that should get all the gunk off with a pressure washer.
welcome to 78ta.
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Good tip Doug ;) ;) ;D
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Welcome to the nest, you can never have too many pics, as we all love pics here. Keep us posted with updates.
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on your firewall try oven cleaner on it first. that should get all the gunk off with a pressure washer.
welcome to 78ta.
Thanks for the warm welcome, doug I was wondering do you mean like easy off oven cleaner? And also what are your sugestions for drying it? I don't have a heater for the garage and I don't want to let water sit on it.
Thanks,
Josh
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yes , easy off. blow it off with air. you'll need to wash it after with sope & water anyway.
it can be a job in doing it , but it has worked for me.
my last car I had it sand blasted . ( firewall, wheel wells, tail panel )
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab27/4_SPEED/015-2.jpg)
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab27/4_SPEED/77%20W72/005-4-1.jpg)
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Ok thanks Doug I will give it a try I also have alot of the Eastwood pre stuff to use before Painting I will have to try easy off washing it and then the pre. Thanks alot
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Good to hear another one getting saved :) and 400-4spd are always awesome :)
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Have not been able to do much on her lately, I still have some of the former rustoleum paint that needs to be removed, and unfortunatly my Dremel just died so gotta go get a new one before I can continue.
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How she is looking currently. Sorry for all the pics
As others have said...never apologize for too many pics!
And I always like seeing cars goin' through big restoration. Really makes me want to start one from nothing as well. I intend too as soon as I have a garage of my own again.
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looks like your off to a good start.
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Hey guys jw for a 77 t/a was the stock rims snowflakes or rally II's? also what is the stock tire size? I am hopefully selling my motorcycle later today so I will have more money to drop on this girl.
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are you asking about the JW code for Rally II's
the RPO code is N98 on your build sheet
if they were painted the body color N67 is on the build sheet
YJ8 for the Snowflake Rims
15x7 is your stock size for 1977, with a GR70x15 tire ( 225-70R - 15 )
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sorry doug I ment jw as in just wondering I am trying to figure out the stock tire size, or what would look good without rubbing and if anyone has pictures to show what the best tire size looks like. And if the snow flakes are stock or the rally II's are stock. I do not have a bulid sheet this girl sat out in the weather for 15 years so anything I might have had is long gone.
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both are stock in 77 . the 15x8 snowflake didnt come out till 78 with the WS6 , but guys use them.
but if I had to choose , I like the rally over the 15x7 snowflake.
the widest tire I would go with on a 7" rim would be a 245-60-15 some go 255-60 on a 7" rim . but I think its to fat.
my 79 the 8" flakes with 255-60r on all 4.
and the 77 has the stock 225-70 on the 7" snowflakes
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Hey Josh. Do you have anymore pic's?
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Cool thanks doug. One more question sence its been awhile sense I have owned a bird. The area around the sides of the firewall on the body where all of the seam sealer is and on top where the cowling is that protects your wiper assembly is that body colored stock or black like under the hood?
Justin I will have to take some more pics.
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its black with your cars oversprayed color on the edges to be correct as in how the factory did it. they didnt exactly tape off things to make it look perfect just paint and go.
the stock 225-70-15's on either a snow flake or rally II wheel look perfect imo.
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to be correct for your 77 is was Red oxide, painted satin black along with the firewall. and like Rick said the body color got on it when painted. but it looks way better not on there.
from what I can tell the body was painted and the painted doors , front end and rear bumper added later
pics of overspray
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab27/4_SPEED/005-5.jpg)
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab27/4_SPEED/020-3.jpg)
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yup forgot to mention the red oxide on the bottom. and I agree looks much better without it there.
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So just wondering I am looking at using a seam sealer on the firewall today should I prime it first or just apply it to the bare metal? I have the eastwood paintable sandable stuff. And if I primer it first should I primer after to to make sure there is primer on top of it? I am just starting to try and paint car parts on my own so any advice would be awsome.
Thanks,
Josh
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primer first, here is a pic of mine after I scraped the seam sealer off
then another coat of primer, if you want to. then 400 grit wet sand the primer . if your not going to seal it, wet sand it with 800
the key phrase is ( only sand what you want the paint to stick to ) ;)
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab27/4_SPEED/007.jpg)
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Ok thanks doug I will put another coat of primer over the top just to be safe. I will be over coating it with eastwoods underhood black. Thanks for the info I heard you don't have to wet sand primer and that it is a waste of time. I am new to painting I car use to just doing models so thanks for the info. I am hoping to finish getting the paint out of the corners sand it a final time pressure wash it today and get a coat of primer on I will keep you guys posted.
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My car is a norwood car so it has all of the red oxide primer on it I bought self etching primer but it says to spray on bare metal. I can't seem to get the other primer off very easily I have spots where it has come off and spots where it hasn't. I am wondering if I can spray the eastwood self etching on top of the red primer or should I continue to take off the oxide or use another primer, before I use the laquer based underhood black?
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the primer you have , is it in a rattle can? can you test a small spot over the red primer.
that OE primer is tough stuff. but if it wont work over it it will look like paint stiper.
will a wire wheel or a DA take it off?
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you will want to scuff your primer before paint. weather it be wet or dry sanding. 600 or 800 may be overkill but is for better results. depending on what paint you are using you can do down to 320 if base clear and 220 if an enamel. just make sure you have no bare metal under that seam sealer or you will allow the car to rust itself out well before you can see it.
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Its a rattle can a wire wheel will take it off but it takes forever. I can test a small area but I am not sure what to look for
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Ok thanks would it be better to just use another primer?
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Well once again I'm late to the party
welcome to 78ta although you've here for a bit
Nice project you have. I wish you the best along the way and look forward to seeing the build
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Hey guys got another question for you. Instead of continuing to try and get this factory primer off where can i buy red oxide primer so I can just respray it? And is red oxide primer compatable as a primer with a laquer based top coat?
Thanks,
Josh
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I found red oxide primer at my local Tractor Supply made by Plasti-kote its a lacquer based primer. Would I be able to spray that over the factory primer with no problems? http://www.tractorsupply.com/plasti-kote-reg-automotive-sandable-primer-spray-red-oxide-12-oz--3455034 This is the paint I am looking at. Sorry for the 20 questions I have never done body work/ painting myself.
Thanks,
Josh
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i would use a nice 2k epoxy primer to make sure its sealed in really well personally
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X2... average primer can be very pourous and thus will let moisture through to form rust again
An epoxy primer sealer doesn't have the same pourous properties and will shield the metal to prevent rust from happening again!!!!
BUt as it is said like a looped track...it is your car you do what you want, this is just teh best option with the best results!!
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Ok and that will work fine over the stock primer and with a lacquer topcoat? Also does the epoxy come in a rattle can or a quart? I have never used a paint gun before but I do have one.
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i have never seen any in a rattle can.
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Ok thanks. Quick up date I bought some aircraft stripper to finish cleaning the firewall, and to take the old coat of paint off my snowflakes. Just waiting for the rain to stop.
Hope to have pics of progress soon, if mother nature will play nice.
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good luck with that. I hear radiation is coming your way, that may help take the paint off though. ;)
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Wow its been a few days sense I have posted lol. Well the rain finally lifted (for now) and I can finally get to work. I am so tired of red oxide factory primer lol. Ok paint stripper was no fun made a mess, got some in my eye, and worked great for everything but the factory primer. So I said to heck with it and pulled out my sand blaster lol. Will post pictures of the (If I am lucky) finished product tomorrow. Now I need help clarifying a few things, first my seam sealer doesn't say to paint first but I know it would be better if I did. Can it be put on top of self-etching primer? and my top coat is a Lacquer and I found out they don't sell a 2 part lacquer primer in California. But this product has been brought up by many people. http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=171 and in the product info it says "Accepts all automotive and
industrial topcoats" So can I use it under a lacquer or will the top coat still peel?
Thanks,
Josh
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I do wanna use epoxy but I am kinda short on funds due to some not so pleasant things that have happened and feather fill G2 is only 75 a gallon. I was even told to use it by a body shop that does show cars. I just don't know if it will cause the paint to peel. Doug, Rick, what do you think? Also I dropped my tank yesterday and depressing as it is still no build sheet. This is what I have been up to the last ten days.
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My new used rims ;D
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What I found in the trunk the date on the box is 1978
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feather fill is like spray on bondo. once you strip the car ,do the body work. you spray this on and starts blocking the car. there is another brand called quick sand. it alot better then feather fill.
every body shop uses this stuff now. it takes days off the body work time.
this is Steve Prouty's 69 bird it has this stuff on it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzuO1-UvoeU&feature=player_embedded
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That is the stuff I need. I didn't know they had that.Here's the first stupid question. Does that get sprayed from a spray gun or can?
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yes. with a .5 tip or bigger. most guns are .4 and smaller. so you need the gun and good air to spray it. it thick and had a 3" spray fan.
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Thanks Doug, so I decided to heck with it and just called Eastwood. After all the top coat is there product they should know better then anyone what I can and cant use. They told me with me being in cali the best thing that will work and not peel is Feather Fill. He said it will work over the etching primer and under the lacquer top coat. What do you guys think? Doug or anyone have a time where Eastwood is wrong? and Justin feather fill is a newer product when you get out here we can go to town with it lol.
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Thanks Doug, so I decided to heck with it and just called Eastwood. After all the top coat is there product they should know better then anyone what I can and cant use. They told me with me being in cali the best thing that will work and not peel is Feather Fill. He said it will work over the etching primer and under the lacquer top coat. What do you guys think? Doug or anyone have a time where Eastwood is wrong? and Justin feather fill is a newer product when you get out here we can go to town with it lol.
Sounds good man. Who knows. Maybe we will learn a thing or two and be good at it. HAHA. Sorry I missed you call last night. Three hours difference and I was out for the count and also sorry about your luck with not getting the Lacquer. Stupid laws.
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Its cool bro I figured you mighta been passed out just didnt wanna text while driving cops were everywhere lol. Ya I hate these laws to, and thanks for the email with the rim info I got it.
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quick update took two days of sand blasting but firewall is ready for paint. I am still confused why my seam sealer doesn't say to prime the metal first but oh well. Today the paint will be going on and I will post pictures later. As the weather gets better and better I find my self suffering from Trans amitis. ( Doug I hope you don't mind I use that). Has anyone used POR15? I was wondering about that for my subframe.
Thanks,
Josh
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Hey Josh. Check this thread out. Click on the link and scroll down. You will see a sub-frame done with the POR15. Looks great. I saw it in person when I went to Ohio to buy some 15x7's off this member.
http://www.78ta.com/smf/index.php?topic=14864.0
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Hey bro I don't see a link.
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That was a test...and you passed...try it now... :)
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Yes the sweet smell of success finally. I got my 3 coats of self etching primer on the firewall today (well technically yesterday) I will be seam sealing it today and putting on a coat of the Feather Fill G2 hopefully before 7 pm so I wont have to resand the firewall again.
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Good luck with it and take lots of pics
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Ok so I sand blasted the firewall, self-etch primer, seam sealed, and epoxy primered, the pictures are to big to post so I need to find a way to post them. I was wondering after I used the epoxy primer, I noticed there were some small spots that the seam sealer did not totally fill. So if I re-put seal sealer in there do I have to put another layer of primer on? I have the paintable sandable seam sealer. Any help would be great.
Thanks,
Josh
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etched
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not bad for the first time i picked up a gun ;D
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Quick update. I got my frame done today!!! ;D ;D I love the smell of progress. Not a bad redneck frame stand if I do say so myself. I will hopefully be finishing my firewall this week, and doing my underside of the car by the end of next week. Hopefully by the end of the month I can have her back on all fours.
http://s1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/?action=view¤t=IMG_20110405_111609.jpg
http://s1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/?action=view¤t=IMG_20110405_174659.jpg
http://s1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/?action=view¤t=IMG_20110405_190926.jpg
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Looks good, you definitely were ... thinking outside the box on that haha
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Thanks Trevon. I am hoping to have the firewall done either today or tomorrow. I was very impressed with how the por-15 turned out on my frame, so I got some silver to do my suspension. Started that yesterday I hope to finish that up today, I will post pics when its done. But she may have to sit for awhile and it kills me. But my wife moved out on me almost two months ago, and we were still talking and doing ok, but last night she came by and said she wanted a divorce. So unless I can stop her from filing, the bird funds are going to have to dry up for awhile...... :'( :'( But we will have to see. ( sorry venting)
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No worries, been there, done that. Lost the Harley, the fishing boat but saved the T/A.
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I understand already lost the kawasaki, refuse to loose the t/a.
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it all looks really good. nice work.
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Thanks Doug, that means alot coming from the type of work you do. One day I will get there lol. JW what are good suspension parts to use? sense I am getting close to putting the frame back together. I am reusing my springs but was not sure about the rest of the stuff, assuming I can still afford it lol.
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I finally got my firewall done ;D .....bout freaking time.
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So its been awhile, thought I would post my progress. This resto is moving alot slower then I hoped it would, but oh well. Two Tires on the ground so far lol, as for the 2nd pic can anyboy say redneck car lift ;D
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I love the way my upper control arms turned out today I will hopefully do the lowers and get joints pressed in. Went and got all my front end parts but my sway bar bushings and sub frame mounts. :) I need new sway bar brackets anyone got an extra set laying around????????
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my redneck car lifts , what ever works to get the job done.... ;D
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab27/4_SPEED/005-9.jpg)
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab27/4_SPEED/PARTS/002-30.jpg)
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I like yours better doug at least you can walk under yours lol. I did my tail lights two days ago. The inside is very shiny, when the sun caught it I got a reflection of the light kinda like you get from a watch. But looking at the color I think its to dark. I couldn't find any silver paint that works well around heat. What do you guys think????
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they look good bub. I used silver duplicolor caliper paint.
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Thanks doug I was afraid they were not bright enough. Did you by anychance have any extra sway bar brackets laying around?
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Nice set up to work underneath. I think my back just got a little more sore thinking how I'll be rolling under mine this afternoon. Love your pics.
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Gotta couple of questions for you guys. First off my frame is ready for assembly except for my lower control arms I used a press to get the bushings out but the outter sleeves stayed in the control arms and I can't get them out any ideas? Secondly I was wondering sense this is going to be a driver and I need a solid durable coating under the body. Should I use undercoating, or por-15 the bottom then top coat it with primer and stock red color? If I did that route the por-15 would give it a strong barrier if the red chips from road debrie.
Thanks for all your help,
Josh
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well for the bushing sleeve, take a sawzaw and cut a slit into the bushing, then it should allow it to collapse, then comes right out, as for your bottom side, well if you are going for a factory look but want a driver then yes id go with route number 2, if you are just wanting a good driver that doesnt have to match the factory stuff, then go with option number 1.......
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Eroc thanks for the advice the sawzaw workded beautiful. I am taking time off next week to get some work done on my baby. This site keeps me movitated, but driving my truck today I passed a fire engine red 79 ta and man did that get my butt in gear. I will post pics through the week.
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need some opinions I am looking at my different options and I am wondering. Should I use poly body mount bushings or rubber?????
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Or even Aluminum. What are the advantages or poly or Aluminum? I thought rubber has lasted this long why not go with that, but I hear these cars ride better with poly is that true?
Thanks,
Josh
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I have always heard the poly bushings are the best you can buy for other vehicles, I'm not sure if that just goes along with older T/A's but everyone around me that upgrades there cars n trucks go to poly.
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Thanks for the info Trevon, I am going to use rubber sway bar links, and control arm bushings. I will use poly for the sway bar bracket bushings and sub frame mounts. I read on TAC that poly mounts stiffin up the ride quite a bit. Now for some updates for you guys.
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Well guys I am sorry but my computer with the program to shrink pictures is my work one, and I can't do more then 5 a month on photobucket (at least thats what they tell me) so I may have to wait on pics till I get back to work monday night unless someone knows of a free program or a site I can use......maybe my facebook???
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I am a premium member of www.flickr.com but you can sign up to be a basic member for free, the only real difference is you don't get to track the statistics on each of your photos (view counts and so on..) I highly recommend. Just upload a pic, select actions (above the photo) and find the option for message boards (or something similar) and C&P the BB Code.
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Found this hiding in my drivers side mirror
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/IMG_20110424_223702.jpg)
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Got a top coat on my frame, upper control arms, and my rods for the control arms. Almost ready to rebuild it. ( I know I have been saying that for awhile)
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/IMG_20110504_160716.jpg)
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/IMG_20110502_183919.jpg)
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/IMG_20110429_193535.jpg)
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Found some rust on the piece that goes under my rocker cover (the one that says body by fisher) so I decided to tear apart the interior and see what I found... Not much except a 1972 silver dollar and a key to the doors of my car. Oh well guess it didn't hurt to check just one more small set back.
the rusted cover
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/IMG_20110426_175607.jpg)
The rest of my floors
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/IMG_20110427_185922.jpg)
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/IMG_20110427_185958.jpg)
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/IMG_20110427_185928.jpg)
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/IMG_20110427_185917.jpg)
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/IMG_20110427_185908.jpg)
and my roof
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/IMG_20110427_185940.jpg)
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Hey guys haven't got much done lately due to crappy work hours, and family issues beyond my control. I did get my springs done and now I just need to get some interior frame coating from Eastwood and I can put my frame back together. I got all of the seam sealer off from the interior and I was wondering. Do I need to take the pans and everything down to bare metal or can I just clean up the rusted spots scuff up the current paint and shoot it?
Thanks for the help,
Josh
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Gotta love nice clean floors, everything up here in canada is pretty much rotten. Keep up the progress. Every little bit helps.
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Thanks I honestly don't know how you guys do it up there. I am just looking forward to getting off work so the work can continue. Any ideas of a fast way to remove the paint from the inside? a flap disk is taking forever.
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I would just wire wheel the rust , new epoxy or what ever primer , new seem sealer . And then a good sound deadener
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Thanks doug I will wire wheel away tonight and tomorrow then lightly scuff the rest of it and paint. Hopefully will have updates soon.
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Have been using a wire wheel to take out all my rust. Probably a dumb reminder but make sure you are using eye protection. The other day while wheeling under my car a couple of wire brisles broke off, one hitting me in the safety glasses, the other stuck in my cheek. I'm thinking a full face shield is worth the investment.
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Lol its not dumb I forget to wear it all the time but I remember really quick when one bouces off my glasses but now its on my mind thanks.
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Nice clean floors bro. Now get that thing on all fours. Lol.
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Lol I would love to but with everything going on right now I am still not 100% sure I will be able to still keep it. I hope I can but it all depends how things go
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Ok guys I need some real help here, I cleaned up my surface rust on my passenger floor and I found some holes :'(.
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/IMG_20110531_154218.jpg)
Now one of the spots with holes is in my passenger toe panel. I was thinking sense the toe panel is not reproduced I could use something like this http://www.tractorsupply.com/welding-metalworking/weldable-metals/welding-rods/hobart-flux-coated-brazing-rod-3-32-in-x-18-in--3810802 and fill in the holes. There is only one or two on the toe panel that pic is from the floor pan. I would just replace the panel but I don't have a mig welder, and I am kinda on a budget. I have been told to use "kitty hair" or the body filler with metal fibers in it as another option, but I think filling it in with metal would be a better choice but I am not sure. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Josh
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Looking awsome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Thanks jeff I noticed your close if your ever wanting to get your hands dirty I always welcome a helping hand and can supply drinks lol.
Josh
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Thanks to everyone for helping me out with my situation, but now its time to get back to my baby.
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/carparts010.jpg)
Tried to braze the holes in my floor pan didn't hold as well as I wanted :-[. So I ran to lowe's and bought some sheet metal and I am just going to make a tiny patch with it. I realized the metal I bought is 1/16th in thick and my floor pans seem a lot thinner then that, so do I need to buy thinner metal or can I use the thicker stuff?
I also have been working on cleaning up parts to see what I can reuse.
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/carparts008.jpg)
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/carparts009.jpg)
my 8track bezel before clean up
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/carparts015.jpg)
and after
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/carparts016.jpg)
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The passenger grill after paint
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/carparts014.jpg)
I had a broken grill (drivers side) that I tried to repair and I will see how it turns out in the end.
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/carparts011.jpg)
After the repair work
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/carparts012.jpg)
Hope to have at least my bad section cut out tomorrow.
Thanks,
Josh
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sorry got the two mixed up the good grill was my driver side and the one I am trying to salvage is my passenger side.
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Nice Work! You gotta love those rust free shells.
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Ok Guys now that all the dust in my life has finally settled I can get back on my girl lol. My Lower A-arms are painted and ready for install.
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/LowerAarm.jpg)
I got some correct rims for her
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/correctrims.jpg)
I am trying to clean up all my old hardware the best I can.
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/startingpoint.jpg)
My cleaning solution ROTFL
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/smellycleanerlol.jpg)
The work station
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/workstation.jpg)
The cleaned product
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/cleaned.jpg)
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My floor pan patch is not the best but it holds.
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/patch.jpg)
Floor is preped for paint
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/paintprep.jpg)
1st coat of red
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/1stcoat.jpg)
2nd coat
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/2ndcoat.jpg)
Frame is ready to go back on hopefully next week.
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Nice work--Sir
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Thanks I worked a 12today so not much of an update I am trying to have the rear end out and painted by mid next week.
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Got the interior primed last night seam sealer and paint today also removed my windshield today, pics will be posted hopefully later today.
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Alright this thread lives again!!! Sorry for the delay folks photobucket was being a PITA and wouldn't let me upload photos from my phone. But they have an app for it, gotta love smart phones. Now on with the show........... Lets see if I can remember the order done lol.
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(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/IMAG0328.jpg)
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/IMAG0327.jpg)
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/IMAG0326.jpg)
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/IMAG0325.jpg)
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/IMAG0323.jpg)
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/IMAG0324.jpg)
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Painted my core support and got it all ready to go.
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/IMAG0372.jpg)
Last view of my Emissions sticker before it got cleaned away. Got lots of close pics for my reproduction though
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/IMAG0361.jpg)
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/IMAG0374.jpg)
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/IMAG0375.jpg)
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got my frame back on
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/IMAG0329.jpg)
Fenders and nose on to check fit
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/IMAG0378.jpg)
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Got more updates to post next slow min at work lol.
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Nice progress
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keep plugging away, it's looking good
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Can't wait to see more. Good job so far
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Looks great Josh! Keep it up. Did you decide to save or sell that Buckskin Mettalic 77?
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Lookin good!!! You're doing an awesome job!
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Very nice Josh.
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Hey Flyboy, Nice work on the inside. You really cleaned her up. Question: What cleaning solution did you mix up to clean up the original hardware? What ever it was it certainly worked. Interested in what you used.
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is that cleaning solution espresso?
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Hey guys sorry to leave you on the hook for so long can only update at work when time allows as no internet at home currently. The cleaning solution I actually got from Justin, its distilled white vinegar and after you let the bolts soak in that and then rinse them off make sure to dry them quick and then dip them in oil so they don't rust again. Now on with more pics lol
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Got my air cleaner box all cleaned up and ready for paint.
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/IMAG0386.jpg)
Got it coated with primer
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/IMAG0397.jpg)
And painted the paint was still wet so I need to take another one.
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/89flyboy/IMAG0398.jpg)
got busy will post more when I can.
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Josh I wish I had an ac exempt car. so much easier to work on. Looking good buddy. Looking good
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Josh I wish I had an ac exempt car. so much easier to work on. Looking good buddy. Looking good
Till ya have to cruise on those really hot days.....
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Josh I wish I had an ac exempt car. so much easier to work on. Looking good buddy. Looking good
Till ya have to cruise on those really hot days.....
Most of my ac components are dismantled right now. I have a complete spare system out of 80 esprit too. When I get my 6.6l going then I will redo the ac. Im sure some components will have to be replaced though. Maybe not
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Josh,
Nice work on the T/A- the only right way to rebuild them is to strip them down to the shell like you did and start from there.
Geno
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anybody have an opinion on the value decrease for an a/c delete? my 79 is an a/c delete and in florida people want air