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Restoration Projects / Re: 1977 project
« Last post by oscardeuce on February 23, 2018, 11:57:18 PM »

Suspension / steel control arm bushings for street use
« Last post by swims350 on February 23, 2018, 09:27:32 PM »
Anyone use the steel bushings for the upper or lower control arms? would they work on the street? The delrin or delalum are out of my price range and I hear poly only squeaks bad so figured maybe the steel might be better then going back rubber?
General Discussion / Sunvisor FIX! I did it!
« Last post by mjowanna on February 23, 2018, 06:57:01 PM »
Floppy Sunvisor Fix

I have found the ultimate fix for the f-body flappy sunvisor.  The problem is that there is not enough friction on the bare metal rod.  Donít use electrical tape.  There is not enough friction on electrical tape - and the tape wads-up as you try to insert the rod into the visor.  Nothing has better friction than sandpaper.

Tape your sunvisor holder so that everything is masked other than the rod past the screw channel.  Spray the metal rod with contact cement - like what you use for a headliner.  Cover the contact cement with clean sand.  Let it dry.  Add another layer of spray contact cement and another layer of sand.  Let it dry.

It will now look like a sand popsicle and will be far too thick to insert into the visor.  Insert a new plastic visor bushing into the visor (if you need one). Gently roll the sanded rod in some 80 grit sandpape until the rod is thin enough to firmly fit being pressed through the plastic bushing and into the visor.  The bushing is held in place by the plastic lip on the bushing.  Donít push so hard that you break the lip on the plastic bushing.  Rotate the rod back and forth as you press it into the sunvisor.  Tighten the visor screw.

It will be so tight you have to pull to move it.  But, it will move - but firmly with no more flop or slop.  No more droop.
Suspension / 79 center link questions
« Last post by swims350 on February 21, 2018, 06:08:14 PM »
Ok so tearing down my 79 I ran into there being 2 different center links, one being for says 75-79 or so and some camaros, the other saying 80/81 only. They are part numbers ds883 for the 79 one and ds829 for 80/81. I cannot find either of those in stock locally to check and compare it to mine and comparing pics the ds829 is really curvy compared to mine where as the 883 looks to be the same.

Well one thing I saw said maybe only thing was metric compared to sae nuts? th eother said camaro vs firebird having bent down pitman arm compared to flat one. I have no idea what the deal is but I know the 883 one is like twice the price and I wanted to rebuild me entire frontend.
DriveTrain / Carb to EFI swap
« Last post by AgentM on February 19, 2018, 01:40:59 PM »
Hello, I am not big into using these forums, but I do like the advice.
First off, I have a 1983 Trans Am as I was a big fan of Smokey and the Bandit and I think the 3rd one is cheesy but Jerry Reed and Collen Camp made that movie good.
Anywho, I have a Trans Am with a Carbureted 305, pretty gutless. A friend of mine who does a lot of customs and old rods stripped down a 90s suburban and sold me the engine, computer etc. We are looking to do a swap this spring when I return from the Army. She's stock, plain jane car.
Any advice to get us started or anything anyone else ran into that we should consider?

Thanks in advance ...
DriveTrain / Re: Muncie 4-speed into a '79 TA with 455 and TH-350
« Last post by Mxzx on February 18, 2018, 07:34:24 PM »
Great, thanks for the info!

DriveTrain / Re: Muncie 4-speed into a '79 TA with 455 and TH-350
« Last post by 78w72 on February 18, 2018, 11:12:28 AM »
the muncie will have a chevy bolt pattern bellhousing that wont bolt up to a pontiac engine.  i think they make an adapter plate or you might be able to locate a pontiac bellhousing & bolt the muncie trans to it but you will have to confirm that. 

muncies are usually worth a lot to the chevy guys so i would suggest selling it & buying a st-10 4 speed that is correct for these cars & will bolt right in. 
DriveTrain / Muncie 4-speed into a '79 TA with 455 and TH-350
« Last post by Mxzx on February 17, 2018, 11:34:27 PM »
Hello all, I have a chance to buy a '81 Firebird as a donor car that has a Chevy 350 and a 4-speed Muncie.  Don't know which Muncie it is yet.

My question is, would it be a major project to swap the 4-speed to my TA with Pontiac 455, and put the auto in the donor with chevy 350?

I don't mind sacrificing the donor to junk if I cant put the auto in it, but really want the TA to be manual.

DriveTrain / Re: 79' TA - choke heater plate removable
« Last post by 78w72 on February 17, 2018, 04:19:09 PM »
the bolts should come out, they can get rusted/stuck in place due to the environment they are in.  couple tricks you can try are heat them up with a propane torch then let cool, this will sometimes break the rust bond.  also rap on them with a hammer that will do the same thing.  spraying lube doesnt do much as it cant get to the threads very well when the bolt is tightened.  use a good wrench or socket so you dont round the heads of the bolt. also try a swivel & extension to get on the bolt then use an impact gun, the shocking forces will usually break it free... or bust the bolt head off to allow to remove the plate & tubes & hopefully leave enough of the bolt to grab onto or weld a nut to remove.  good luck!
DriveTrain / 79' TA - choke heater plate removable
« Last post by jvmagic on February 17, 2018, 03:11:08 PM »
I need to replace the broken choke heater tubes and the two bolts that hold this plate on really tight for obvious reasons.  I have lubricated these two bolts a few times to see if this helps.....the one I can reach is not budging.  The second bolt closest to the front of the engine is the hardest to get to with the carb on. 
Have others been able to remove these two bolts with the carb on?  Can I somehow remove the broken tubes without removing the plate?  One tube is broken level to the plate so there is nothing to grab on to.  Any ideas?  I will continue to saturate with a lubricant. 
Thanks in advance.
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