Topic: Floor pans

[1FSTLS1]

Well took the seats and carpet out.  Looks bad.  Looks like the drive shaft may have came off at one time.  Ther is a hole in the corner passenger side behind the rocker pannel that looks like a hard fix.  I need some opinions and info on how to fix all of this.  I do not have a welder but could get a friend to help or rent one.  I dont want to spend a bunch of money on floor pans from year one and pay a bunch of shipping.  No one will ever see the underside but I want it to be strong.  Should I get some sheet metal 1/8 in or so and make some patches?  How should I go about this

[Joker (§ir£Ðragon)]

That does look like a tough fix. I would definitely get your friend to help. You'll need all the hands you can get. lol   And a mig is almost definitely a must. I think 1/8" might be a little heavy and hard to work with. I'm pretty sure the factory metal is only 18g. Not sure exactly how hevy you might need to go if you're just using flat steel though rather than having the contours like the pans do to add strength. Hitman will be able to tell you I'll bet.

It looks like you're right about the driveshaft. Have you looked at it yet? It might be an illusion, but check the yoke on the shaft right next to the u-joint cup in this pic. It looks like it might be cracked or chipped.

[Rick]

Wow!  How did that hole get punched in there?   Driveshaft failure?

[brian c]

Rick, that looks intentional to me. There's a couple spots, the bottom most slice, that look like a sazall or tin snips went after the sheet metal.

I'd cut out the bent in pieces in the tranny hump and using the other side as a form bend up some sheetmetal to weld back in. As for the rest of the floors - you can get partial floor pans. Where are you located? If you're in the Buffalo area I can get you a deal on some Sherman parts through my car club.

[Joker (§ir£Ðragon)]

Yeah, some of it does look cut. But I'd bet that was to get rid of jagged metal. I've seen shafts do that kind of damage before like he thinks might have happened. That's why I'm also concerned about the yoke. If they reused the shaft after that kind of failure it could come apart.

[1FSTLS1]

I am down in MD.  I have not looked at the yolk yet.  The rear may have been changed at one time.  Where does one get partial floor pans and then I have to worry about the seat mouts.  Guess I could always just tack in the seats?

[RENOVATIONS]

The threads/mount for the seat mounts are actually part of the floor pan brace which runs under the floor pans.

[Joker (§ir£Ðragon)]

The threads/mount for the seat mounts are actually part of the floor pan brace which runs under the floor pans.

Yeah, but if the brace is salvagable it can just be separated (drill out the spot welds) right? And if the threads are shot could he just tack in new nuts?

[RENOVATIONS]

Yes, you can drill out the spot welds in the floor pan and at the rockers to separate brace from pan.

[RENOVATIONS]

Here's a pic of the front pan section removed. The brace is one piece running right to left (rocker to rocker) under the pan; arrows show mounts for front bolts of bucket seat (passenger area shown).

[Joker (§ir£Ðragon)]

Man! That one is CLEAN! Mine is missing about an inch from each end.

[brian c]

I am down in MD.  I have not looked at the yolk yet.  The rear may have been changed at one time.  Where does one get partial floor pans and then I have to worry about the seat mouts.  Guess I could always just tack in the seats?

Have you checked the usual suspects...Classic Industries, Ames Performance, NPD, etc? Since you're in MD you might want to look at Ames Performance as it'll probably be the cheapest shipping.

I wouldn't tack the seats in as you'll want to get the carpet in first and welding+new carpet=fire (or at least a good test for your fire extinguisher). If the threaded section for the seats is long gone I'd do as Larry suggested and tack a nut where needed to the floor pan/brace.

[Shakin]

I'll tell you what I know.

-First thing to do is aquire the floorpans you need to replace.
-Then trace the outline if the new pan over the old one.
-Go around the outline and mark about an inch in from the edge in every direction, creating a smaller outline.
-Then use either a plasma cutter or a die grinder and hack it out.
-You can spot weld it in to hold it and if it isn't srong enough then use a welder on a low setting and clean up the edge around the entire bottom of the new joint.

Thats about all I know on the subject, thats what I've heard from multiple people who have done it.