Hitman's Pontiac Trans Am Forum
General => Hobbies and Interests => Topic started by: firebird79_00 on March 12, 2012, 11:32:15 PM
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Im looking at picking up a mig welder but am not to sure what i need for home use, i am just wondering how many volts is the typical house outlet? Is there anything to look out for when buying one?
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Not sure about Canadian, if different or not, but typical home-use welder here would be a 110 (115) unit...though you could always wire for a 220v
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I would go 220. And definetly get one with a shielding gas setup. Flux core just gets too hot for sheet metal especially when you are just learning to weld. Having a compressor handy will aid in preventing warping by keeping the area cool between spot welds.
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I would go 220. And definetly get one with a shielding gas setup. Flux core just gets too hot for sheet metal especially when you are just learning to weld. Having a compressor handy will aid in preventing warping by keeping the area cool between spot welds.
i disagree... a 110 unit, is more than capable to do the work around a house, 220 is more heavy duty, construction/fabrication unit....
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Flux cores tend to burn too hot for the beginners. For experinced welders, I too have seen some quality work done with a 110 flux core welder. Now a days Im sure you can now get 110s with shielding gas. My question is if you have the 200 amp system Why not buy one machine that can do many things. I did my rear frame rails with my 220 mig and it came out great with excellent penatration. It also did a great job welding in panels. I will most likely save up for a TIG in the future.
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oh you are right about the flux core... stay away, lots of headache... thats heavy duty construction for the most part.... gets super hot... I would say get a 110 shielding gas mig unit.. and when you need a bigger welder spend 3-4 times what you paid for that for a decent 220 mig, and tig machines get super pricey, and mainly used for fab work....
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Here's a web pic of the model I have....use with gas for sure. Got a great price (around $400. I think) on it several years ago at Northern Tool when I lived in IA; came with regulator, couple spools of wire, spare tips, cart, etc
Love it!
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61a4PBMw4yL._AA1016_.jpg)
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I got a mig welder for sale, pm if your interested
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That is so funny. I actually have a Clarke 180en that I bought from Northern Tools about 4 years ago. 230 volt. It is great. I paid around $450 for it to my door. It is very versatile and stays nice and cool. It came with a cart, auto darkening helmet, shield gas set up and accesories. It is a shame that Clarke went out of bussiness in 2009. They were a good little company making good products. The buildt products for the farm industry.
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Perfect thanks for the advice, i will probably end up going with a 110 unit then as i am only going to be doing a small few sections for now.
I would be interested but Ohio is approx 4000km away from me, shipping wouldnt exactly be cheap.
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http://www.eastwood.com/mig-welder-110vac-135a-output.html
sometimes they do free shipping offers.... its a lincoln unit, thats just rebranded.... Im happy with mine... works great for autobody stuff, I even did a set of frame connectors....
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seems like a good unit, but i would still like to find something on the other side of the border.
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bandit alex has a good home use for sale, looks to be in great shape
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PM sent to BanditAlex.
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bandit alex has a good home use for sale, looks to be in great shape
thanks!!
PM sent to BanditAlex.
Replied.
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no problem
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Another quick questions, what do tanks usually cost?
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Another quick questions, what do tanks usually cost?
i have a large one cost around hundred buck but then its only like thirty five bucks to get refilled
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thats a lot better then i was expecting. Thanks.
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Another quick questions, what do tanks usually cost?
i have a large one cost around hundred buck but then its only like thirty five bucks to get refilled
Yup, Thats what I pay here in Connecticut too. About 33 and change and $100 to buy.
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I would go with the 220 units.
I have a Hobart 220. Hobart is Miller parts and consumibles .
Crank it way down to do your little sheet metal work and still have the capability to do serious (fun) welding.
I have used my Hobart 220 from everything from floor pans to building complete car trailers.
This is just me----- but, once you have a 110/120 unit you will wish you had a 220.
Example: welding through rusty/scale to obtain an even penetration is nearly impossible with the 110 units with out having to waste time with grinders/wire wheels and you'll only be able to do short welds (penetrating welds).
With a 220 unit you'll be able to get the heat up (stay up) to blow through rust/scale and still lay down beautiful welds--- without wasting hours with a grinder/wire wheel.
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I would go with the 220 units.
I have a Hobart 220. Hobart is Miller parts and consumibles .
Crank it way down to do your little sheet metal work and still have the capability to do serious (fun) welding.
I have used my Hobart 220 from everything from floor pans to building complete car trailers.
This is just me----- but, once you have a 110/120 unit you will wish you had a 220.
Example: welding through rusty/scale to obtain an even penetration is nearly impossible with the 110 units with out having to waste time with grinders/wire wheels and you'll only be able to do short welds (penetrating welds).
With a 220 unit you'll be able to get the heat up (stay up) to blow through rust/scale and still lay down beautiful welds--- without wasting hours with a grinder/wire wheel.
Agreed
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^ yes and no.... yeah a bigger one will heat up alot quicker, and hold heat... but in bodywork you DO NOT want this... frame work, yes... or any other type that is more of a solid structure.. but def not on panels.... any panels... it will warp and cause you to have a much bigger body shop bill or headache with labor in fixing the warped panels.....
if you are doing alot of fab work, on various sizes of metal with it averaging 1/4" then yes I HIGHLY recommend a 220v welder... if you are just repairing small things on a car... 110....
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Mainly i will be doing a couple spots on the floor, a couple in the wheel wells and i need to fab up a 77 rear end. I may also have a spot on the quarter to do. If i was using a 220 would it be okay to use as long as im taking the time to cool the panel down between welds?
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yeah... you can set the heat and wire speed right and do the same as a 110....just go slower.... a cold wet rag... or cold air will aide in the cooling....
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I used compressed air for cooling between welds. Worked well.
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okay thanks, im going to try and pick up a 220 soon then.
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a 115 volt 20 to 25 amp breaker at the box is fine for auto body. dont use it on a 15 amp breaker , you'll cook the board in the welder. unless the manual states a 15 amp breaker is fine.
when weding auto body, you dont hold the trigger . it 100's of spot welds. and skip all around the patch or it will warp.
if you use gas , use 75/25 mix. it'll burn cleaner then argon.
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a 115 volt 20 to 25 amp breaker at the box is fine for auto body. dont use it on a 15 amp breaker , you'll cook the board in the welder. unless the manual states a 15 amp breaker is fine.
when weding auto body, you dont hold the trigger . it 100's of spot welds. and skip all around the patch or it will warp.
if you use gas , use 75/25 mix. it'll burn cleaner then argon.
agreed 100%
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And I paid about $120 for my tank and $30 a fill up from a local gas supplier. One tank will last a while. 75/25 mix as Doug stated.
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4SPEED is correct on this one, I agree 100%
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well i ended up picking up a 120, was on sale from 500 to 250. Pretty happy with that.