Author Topic: Mig Welding  (Read 10200 times)

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Offline joe d

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Re: Mig Welding
« Reply #15 on: March 14, 2012, 05:34:23 PM »
no problem
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2005 mercedes s55
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1980 SE trans am (new current project)
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Offline firebird79_00

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Re: Mig Welding
« Reply #16 on: March 14, 2012, 08:17:57 PM »
Another quick questions, what do tanks usually cost?
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Offline HOMER

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Re: Mig Welding
« Reply #17 on: March 14, 2012, 09:37:18 PM »
Another quick questions, what do tanks usually cost?

i have a large one cost around hundred buck but then its only like thirty five bucks to get refilled
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Offline firebird79_00

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Re: Mig Welding
« Reply #18 on: March 14, 2012, 11:20:03 PM »
thats a lot better then i was expecting. Thanks.
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Offline Greenbird76

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Re: Mig Welding
« Reply #19 on: March 15, 2012, 01:22:51 AM »
Another quick questions, what do tanks usually cost?

i have a large one cost around hundred buck but then its only like thirty five bucks to get refilled
Yup, Thats what I pay here in Connecticut too.  About 33 and change and $100 to buy.

Offline ShakerBreaker

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Re: Mig Welding
« Reply #20 on: March 15, 2012, 11:23:00 PM »
I would go with the 220 units.
I have a Hobart 220. Hobart is Miller parts and consumibles .
Crank it way down to do your little sheet metal work and still have the capability to do serious (fun) welding.
I have used my Hobart 220 from everything from floor pans to building complete car trailers.
This is just me----- but, once you have a 110/120 unit you will wish you had a 220.
Example: welding through rusty/scale to obtain an even penetration is nearly impossible with the 110 units with out having to waste time with grinders/wire wheels and you'll only be able to do short welds (penetrating welds).
With a 220 unit you'll be able to get the heat up (stay up) to blow through rust/scale and still lay down beautiful welds--- without wasting hours with a grinder/wire wheel.

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Offline Greenbird76

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Re: Mig Welding
« Reply #21 on: March 16, 2012, 01:32:29 AM »
I would go with the 220 units.
I have a Hobart 220. Hobart is Miller parts and consumibles .
Crank it way down to do your little sheet metal work and still have the capability to do serious (fun) welding.
I have used my Hobart 220 from everything from floor pans to building complete car trailers.
This is just me----- but, once you have a 110/120 unit you will wish you had a 220.
Example: welding through rusty/scale to obtain an even penetration is nearly impossible with the 110 units with out having to waste time with grinders/wire wheels and you'll only be able to do short welds (penetrating welds).
With a 220 unit you'll be able to get the heat up (stay up) to blow through rust/scale and still lay down beautiful welds--- without wasting hours with a grinder/wire wheel.


Agreed

Offline eroc022

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Re: Mig Welding
« Reply #22 on: March 16, 2012, 09:14:15 PM »
^ yes and no.... yeah a bigger one will heat up alot quicker, and hold heat... but in bodywork you DO NOT want this... frame work, yes... or any other type that is more of a solid structure.. but def not on panels.... any panels... it will warp and cause you to have a much bigger body shop bill or headache with labor in fixing the warped panels.....

if you are doing alot of fab work, on various sizes of metal with it averaging 1/4" then yes I HIGHLY recommend a 220v welder... if you are just repairing small things on a car... 110....

Eroc
Fixing the car that Restore A Muscle Car jacked up....

Offline firebird79_00

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Re: Mig Welding
« Reply #23 on: March 16, 2012, 09:50:04 PM »
Mainly i will be doing a couple spots on the floor, a couple in the wheel wells and i need to fab up a 77 rear end. I may also have a spot on the quarter to do. If i was using a 220 would it be okay to use as long as im taking the time to cool the panel down between welds?
1977 Firebird Clone
6.6L.....soon

Offline eroc022

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Re: Mig Welding
« Reply #24 on: March 16, 2012, 10:02:39 PM »
yeah... you can set the heat and wire speed right and do the same as a 110....just go slower.... a cold wet rag... or cold air will aide in the cooling....
Eroc
Fixing the car that Restore A Muscle Car jacked up....

Offline Greenbird76

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Re: Mig Welding
« Reply #25 on: March 16, 2012, 10:51:30 PM »
I used compressed air for cooling between welds.  Worked well. 

Offline firebird79_00

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Re: Mig Welding
« Reply #26 on: March 16, 2012, 11:20:04 PM »
okay thanks, im going to try and pick up a 220 soon then.
1977 Firebird Clone
6.6L.....soon

Offline 4SPEED

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Re: Mig Welding
« Reply #27 on: March 17, 2012, 12:23:30 AM »
a 115 volt  20 to 25 amp breaker at the box is fine for auto body.    dont use it on a 15 amp breaker , you'll cook the board in the welder.  unless the manual states a 15 amp breaker is fine.   

when weding auto body, you dont hold the trigger .  it 100's of spot welds.  and skip all around the patch or it will warp.   

if you use gas ,  use 75/25 mix.   it'll burn cleaner then argon. 
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Offline joe d

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Re: Mig Welding
« Reply #28 on: March 17, 2012, 07:06:27 AM »
a 115 volt  20 to 25 amp breaker at the box is fine for auto body.    dont use it on a 15 amp breaker , you'll cook the board in the welder.  unless the manual states a 15 amp breaker is fine.   

when weding auto body, you dont hold the trigger .  it 100's of spot welds.  and skip all around the patch or it will warp.   

if you use gas ,  use 75/25 mix.   it'll burn cleaner then argon.
agreed 100%
1979 ws6 trans am (current project)
2005 mercedes s55
2001 dodge durango
1980 SE trans am (new current project)
1971 Monte Carlo
the 5 p's "perfect planning prevents poor performance"

Offline Greenbird76

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Re: Mig Welding
« Reply #29 on: March 17, 2012, 09:11:19 AM »
And I paid about $120 for my tank and $30 a fill up from a local gas supplier.  One tank will last a while.  75/25 mix as Doug stated.