Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
1
Parts Suppliers / Re: Delco Freedom battery top?
« Last post by Aus78Formula on Today at 02:21:38 AM »
Is there a realistic top for a 40 year old battery with a dead cell window?!
2
General Discussion / Re: North Shore Classics in Mundelein, IL
« Last post by jonathonar89 on September 21, 2019, 10:51:49 PM »
I live by there and been there a few times.  They ask a lot like any of those retail price places.  They have to make money somehow but many times itís lipstick on a pig.  I was going to buy a nice Ď81 from them this year but ended up not doing it.  Just not the right place in my life.

These places are dealerships.  Not restoration shops.  The work they do is detailing and some mechanics.  I was talking to the owner this past year.  They go and group purchase cars to resell.  Unless you have the money, the places are the ones that sales because they can walk you through financing.
3
DriveTrain / Re: My 1985 trans am is running hot
« Last post by vrossi on September 14, 2019, 05:53:26 PM »
Hi Stringer

Thanks for the feedback. To be honest I am not shure if its got a shroud (I am at work now so I dont have a chance to run down and check) But if it doesent than for sure I will get one.

This might actually be the reason why the fan has been wired to be on as long as the ignition is on, I dont know. But it is pretty obvious that the car has had some cooling issues. What I find strange is that it happened after the car stood still after a couple of months. But if I have understood this correctly these cars are known for not having the best cooling system. But if this shroud is criticall for having good cooling then it might be missing. I'll check once I get home. Thanks for the tip!
4
DriveTrain / Re: 79 ta x code
« Last post by Stringer on September 14, 2019, 12:22:43 PM »
I always question the boring amount.. When I had my heads off a few years ago it seemed like plenty of steel to work with. It is good to know what it can really handle. 
5
DriveTrain / Re: 79 ta x code
« Last post by Aus78Formula on September 14, 2019, 12:30:55 AM »
My previous 403 was 60 thou over. Had no idea until pulled it down. No overheating issues ever, cooling and engine well maintained and had plenty of cooling options open to it if needed. It just wasn't suitable for the piston plans I had. Picked up another block for less than cost to sleeve, might be different today. The KB piston option is for 24 or 39 thou over and are totally fine.There's a few older How-to build a 403 articles online. They are a guideline only. Not only are they outdated but full of incorrect assumptions based on little of fact but sound iike good advice. Many of the issues apply to many engines and not because they are a 403.
6
DriveTrain / Re: 79 ta x code
« Last post by Stringer on September 13, 2019, 09:33:42 PM »
Yes the 403 can be built for power if you know what you are doing. The motor "got a bad wrap" for two reasons. 1) The motor has Siamese pistons - meaning no water jacket between them  2) the lower mains are "widow mains" - meaning they have holes within them and can not handle large amounts of torque.

The 403 is a fine motor. It is what I have in mine. It can also be built for power. While I have not done it, I have read you can push upwards of 500hp and about the same torque before the issue with the mains starts to haunt you.

Stock the motor is 185hp and 315ft lbs of torque. Running true dual 2.5 inch exhaust and headers would probably put you close to 200hp Adding fuel injection setup (which I hope to due to mine) may take it up another 15.  Beyond that would require a different cam setup and maybe boring the cylinders - and the hp ranges are many.

If you build it, it is recommended not to bore the cylinders more than 20 thousand over, because of the Siamesed cylinders. There is the potential of developing overheating issue if you go beyond that range (or so I have read).

The car was "fast for the its day...... but is not fast for today" as I like to say. It's sill quick car and is fun to drive. It feels faster than it actually is, because of the torque.  So, unless you are looking to build a power house, I would stick with the 403. A few cheap mods and she really comes to life. If you do change I would go with the Pontiac 400. The 400 is the better motor @ 220hp and 320ft lbs of tourqe. No Siamesed pistons and no widow mains. The damn thing can handle almost anything you throw at it.

7
DriveTrain / Re: My 1985 trans am is running hot
« Last post by Stringer on September 13, 2019, 07:50:47 PM »
Does it have a fan shroud?  If the water pump is fine and the radiator not plugged it is almost certainly an airflow problem. The factory set up is designed with a shroud that is as large as the radiator and as small as the fan. It acts as a an air duct. When the car is at idle, air is drawn across the whole radiator. And when the car is in motion, it constricts airflow to ensure air passes through to whole radiator.

Air is lazy, and will follow the path of least resistance. Without a proper shroud, any vehicle is destined to over heat, because too much air is flowing around the radiator and not though it. My advice would be to put it back to factory or ensure the shroud is appropriately sized for your set up.

I have a 79 TA, live in Phoenix and regularly drive during 110 degree heat, on the freeway and in town no problem. All factory setup. My temperature is usually around 195.
8
DriveTrain / My 1985 trans am is running hot
« Last post by vrossi on September 12, 2019, 07:54:06 AM »
Hi all

what a nice forum, I've just joined today.

Well here it goes. My engine keeps overheating. This especially after climbing steap hils. It has gone as far as to 240 on the gauge.

It is a 305 with carburator and manual gearbox.

I will try to tell you the stry and what I have checked.

The car stood still because the Gearbox was out for maintenance. It stood still for a couple of months. After the gearbox was mounted again it started this overheating (I cant remember if it started right after or after a while) Anyway the overheating started.

Stuff I have checked
Thermostat is brand new.
Tempsensor is correct.
I have checked if the waterpump is ok, I dismounted it and checked it and it looked good as far as I could see.
Comptest done on all sylinders, it was fine.
The radioator has been cleaned, the fan is running
I\ve checked the system for air bobbles. Nothing.

The fan on this car has been wired to be running as long as the ignition is on (this was done by the previous owner) So maybe he has had some issues with the cooling before ? I dont know. There is no AC on the car, it has been delivered with it when it was new. But it has been dfismounted.

My next step was going to be to maybe change the fan and radiator to a bigger one. I know the cooling is not the best on these cars, but it was absolutely no problems before the car stood still for those couple of months.

If anyone have any idea on what it could be than any answers will be appreciated ;)

 
9
Parts Suppliers / Re: Delco Freedom battery top?
« Last post by tz6p06 on September 12, 2019, 07:01:08 AM »
Toppers are available now for $70 plus $15 for shipping with priority mail and full insurance.  You can contact me and I usually get the toppers out one day after payment has been received.
10
Parts Suppliers / Re: Delco Freedom battery top?
« Last post by tz6p06 on September 12, 2019, 06:54:32 AM »
Toppers are available now for $70 plus $15 for shipping with priority mail and full insurance.  You can contact me and I usually get the toppers out one day after payment has been received.
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10