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Trans Am Information / Re: Can someone explain this number?
« Last post by RENOVATIONS on June 27, 2016, 03:47:37 PM »
A partial VIN is stamped twice on the firewall behind the case...maybe that is what you are looking at.
Trans Am Information / Can someone explain this number?
« Last post by TAction on June 27, 2016, 10:52:53 AM »
This was behind the AC case of a wreck i found. Can you tell me what the numbers mean? First time I've seen it there. 29N187220

Thank you!
Suspension / 70-81 Camaro/Firebird sway bar comparisons
« Last post by F-body International on June 27, 2016, 09:58:20 AM »
Over the past few weeks a few people local to the Pro-Touring F-Body shop in Illinois have been able to bring together a couple of the aftermarket 70-81 Camaro/Firebird front sway bars for comparison and testing.  I, of the bunch, brought my Hotchkis sway bar and someone else brought a Ridetech bar to the table.  We also had a stock WS6 Trans Am to play with as well.  Of the variety at hand, the Ridetech and Hotchkis were the hollow type.  The Pro-Touring F-Body and GM bars were solid.

For testing, Dave from PTFB (Pro-Touring F-Body) not only did a load capacity measurement, but also a measurement of wheel clearance gained or lost by comparison to a stock WS6 sway bar.  For load testing, each bar was strapped to a bench and weight was measured until 1" of deflection was incurred for each individual bar.

The results for load testing @1" deflection came in as follows...

Stock GM - 380lb
Ridetech - 350lb
Hotchkis - 380lb
PTFB - 460lb

Wheel/tire clearance measurements came in as follows...

Stock GM - Standard
Ridetech - 1/2" lost
Hotchkis - 1 1/8" lost
PTFB - 5/8" gained

Here you can see how the Hotchkis sway bar compares to the PTFB high clearance sway bar from a birds-eye view...

Surely after seeing these results, us "car people" are immediately thinking PTFB is the best of this bunch.  I'm not writing this to downplay or tout certain brands but this is more for displaying the results of what a group of people found and helping others make informed decisions.  Remember, I showed up with my Hotchkis sway bar!

A positive note to make on the hollow Hotchkis and Ridetech bars is that they are indeed lighter.  Without putting them on a scale, you can feel the Hotchkis bar is fairly lightweight by comparison to a solid bar.  The most positive note to make on the Hotchkis sway bar, is that you get some very nice greaseable bushings for the frame mounts.  After speaking with Dave from PTFB on this, he ended making the point that his bushings are high quality American made and low price if there is ever a need for replacement.   Here is a comparison picture so you can see what I'm talking about...

The final part in relation to this subjective comparison is the end links.  All of the brands seemed to have the similar link system to what GM used.  It laughably looks like a few rubber donuts bolted together.  PTFB has their 1LE bar which closely relates to the rest of the bunch but they have also stepped up the design in this area with their adjustable sway bar.  The end links on the PTFB adjustable bar is, in my opinion, where it shines above all we had to test.  Here we can see the Hothckis compared in to the PTFB adjustable end links.  Again, the PTFB 1LE, Ridetech, and stock GM use the similar type link as the Hotchkis.  Only the adjustable PTFB links are like below...

Hopefully this helps some of you with future decisions and forum debates.
DriveTrain / Re: looking to add some cheap horsepower ;-)..
« Last post by Angelo on June 27, 2016, 07:16:31 AM »
You should not have to lift the engine at all. Headers require lifting the engine, Ra manifolds can be rotated, etc to get them in. If the heads are off the engine that would be the time to put the manifolds loosely into position.
Restoration Projects / Re: 78 martinique blue
« Last post by hada76 on June 27, 2016, 12:42:57 AM »

2 thumbs up on the wheels/tires!
DriveTrain / Re: looking to add some cheap horsepower ;-)..
« Last post by 77perudo on June 27, 2016, 12:05:18 AM »
Forget about using the L78 block with a stroker kit- it is too thin in the main saddle area and will crack at the dowel pins. PMD tried to put a band-aid on it and used rolled sheetmetal main cap dowel pins, but many still cracked- a stroker kit will definitely make the block fail. Get a 481988 400 block and use that for a stroker kit- build it right from the ground up and it will reward you with excellent power.

The plus of having an L78 is that you can use the 6x-8 heads on your stroked 400- they usually have 98-102cc chambers, which will give you a pump gas friendly 8.9-9.2:1 SCR. No problem with 91 octane there.


thx geno for the info... i have to look at my block and im aware that alot of them are weaker.. but was under the impression the if its "XX" labeled block is just as good as the earlier vintage block for strength etc..
DriveTrain / Re: looking to add some cheap horsepower ;-)..
« Last post by 77perudo on June 27, 2016, 12:02:41 AM »
had the carb tuned a bit.. but there are issues with it.. secondarys are not opening properly.. probably need a rebuild. i just ordered an edelbrock performer intake, and a edelbrock 750 carb. and probably keep the qjet and intake in storage because its original to the car. i am most likely going to put higher compression heads like the 16's or something similar 72 cc chamber, large valves etc. my question is if i do the ram air manifold/header and swap heads at the same time as the manifolds is it easier to do both at the same time?? i saw some install vids for the ram air manifolds and said to lift engine a little bit etc.. would i still have to do that if swapping heads also.. if heads are out i would have more room to work with the manifolds and dont think necessary to lift engine at all.
Electrical / 1975 alternator options
« Last post by gixxer711 on June 26, 2016, 11:04:52 PM »
I am looking for a new alternator for my Trans Am. I currently have a 63 amp replacement. I read thru some older threads for 100+amp alternatives. Just wanted to see if there are any more current options. I think I want to stay with the stock three wire setup.
Electrical / Re: 77 gauge cluster
« Last post by 77TRANS-AM400 on June 26, 2016, 05:55:59 PM »
I figured out that it's a ground (by trial and error) lol. I just don't know what is supposed to be hooked to it. So for now I've run a ground wire to the dash frame and low and behold I now have dash lights :)
Suspension / Re: subframe
« Last post by 80transam400 on June 26, 2016, 04:06:35 PM »
Check this out whomever wants to remove their Pontiac front subframe:
1)Locate the lower control arm forward mounting locations and drop a plumb line to the ground and mark locations.
2)On the rear of the car, locate the round flanged holes that are near the front of the rear frame rails. Drop a plumb lines from these locations and mark on the ground.
Measure diagonally between the marks from these holes and the marks from the front control arm bolt holes. These measurements should be within 1/8" of each other.
3)Loosen the (radiator)core support and body mount bolts and position (front) sub frame as needed.

I would go with this procedure if you would take the Front Frame off the body for any reason.

you could also get 4 plumb bobs and hang them from those places mentioned B4 and measure diagonally. Those plumb bobs take a while to stop moving so take some patience.

I currently have my front subframe off and will use the above method to after I cleaned the subframe of Grime and Paint it with POR 15 OR use Master Coat Primer and AG111 chasis kit or Maybe I will  just spray Rustoleum!!
Replacing bushing with Polyurethane bushings from Energy Suspension 3.4133G
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