Recent Posts

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 10
DriveTrain / Re: Need opinion on exhaust upgrade
« Last post by mikekop on November 20, 2014, 03:18:33 PM »

Thanks Daniel for your kind words!

Skickat från min SGP321 via Tapatalk

DriveTrain / Re: Need opinion on exhaust upgrade
« Last post by Daniel78ta on November 20, 2014, 02:47:38 PM »
- that TA is much too nice to have out in the snow...!!! 

DriveTrain / Re: 1978 Trans Am Tuning Issues
« Last post by Daniel78ta on November 20, 2014, 02:42:56 PM »
hi rich..
another thing you could do is get rid of all the EGR and vacuum stuff.. Vacuum leaks can lead to poor operation..  I "think: the only thing you need is vacuum to the breaks, distributer, trans and cruise control.. Make a EGR block off plate and plug the hole on the intake. Then add an electric choke to the carb.. You could also pull that charcoal canister out of there, plug the line and drill a hole in the gas cap. (i did this)

It looks much nicer under the hood to get rid of all that EGR and extra vacuum lines..

DriveTrain / Re: going from 1.5 to 1.65 Roller tip Rockers....??
« Last post by Daniel78ta on November 20, 2014, 02:35:56 PM »
thanks LilSki..
I have a little lifter "tick" that lasts from about 100 degrees to 200 degrees upon startup.. So, if i have to get in there next spring to change a lifter I might bump up to the 1.65 roller tip rockers - just for a little extra lift. Get the most out of the cam and port work i had done..

only 350 miles on the new re-build.. So, I'm hoping next spring when I'm able to drive her some more the lifter tick - goes away on its own..

thanks again,.
General Discussion / Re: Newbie with 81 Turbo seeking rebuild advice
« Last post by JohnA. on November 20, 2014, 12:32:55 PM »
Been there done it,had my 301T for 4yrs put a few $$$$ into it over that time including a new turbo,then blew a piston late 2013, engine had to be pulled, the estimates I got for a rebuild were similar to the estimates you got,It came down to money for me, buying a used Pontiac 400 motor,refreshing it a bit, a new exhaust system and the install was a few thousand cheaper,it pained me to a degree because I had a 100% stock original Y84 car but then again I`m not selling it so being original doesn`t matter anymore,If being original is crucial re-build it, the turbo cars are becoming more and more rare so if resale down the road is an issue keep that in mind,alot of guys on these forums bash the 301T call it a boat anchor etc,I was content with the way it performed over the 4yrs I had it and it would still be in the car if it didn`t have to be re-built, no your not gonna shred tires,or win races but it is a great cruising motor and not too bad on gas,like Kev said the 301 garage is a great site the guys there helped me numerous times and you can reach out and get the hard to find 301T only parts there,tough decision for sure Do what your finances allow,
General Discussion / Re: Newbie with 81 Turbo seeking rebuild advice
« Last post by 80TAPaceCar on November 20, 2014, 06:48:41 AM »
Just trying to properly weigh my options by getting advice from the people who know this car the best :)

Then you will want to go to the site that knows all about the 301 Turbo.

Interior / Re: under dash heat duct
« Last post by KJMason on November 20, 2014, 06:45:14 AM »
There's supposed to be a metal strap (about 1" wide by 2-3" long) that's attached to the back of the defrost duct and the heater box by just two screws. The gap between the duct and box is supposed to be open and the strap just holds the duct in its proper position above the box. Sounds like you're missing the strap but it would be easy enough to make your own, just don't try to close the gap 'cause it ain't gonna work. :-).
Restoration / Re: Steering Column Wheel Knuckle
« Last post by KJMason on November 20, 2014, 06:30:36 AM »
Your problem is the upper bearing race. It's a steel ring that slides down the steering shaft and sits on top of the ball bearings. The top of the race is cup shaped and there's another collar, the preload spring, the turn signal cancelling cam, and then the lock plate and snap ring that all goes in above the race. The lock plate holds the entire assembly together and the preload spring keeps the bearing tight. Without all that the upper bearing race will back out leaving the steering shaft loose. Obviously there's also the turn signal switch and lever but they have nothing to do with the steering shaft and mount. I have no idea how aftermarket wheels mount but I seriously doubt people are supposed to leave any of these other parts out. Best of luck!
Restoration / Re: How to Remove Rust on SeatBelts
« Last post by 81 on November 19, 2014, 11:46:47 PM »
Water + Molasses + 48 to 70 hours soak = rust is gone from ANYTHING.  You do not need to use a lot of molasses either, just enough t turn the water dark brown.  Just in case I'd rig the belts up so that the webbing isn't soaked.  To the best of my knowledge the webbing wont be damaged, but it will have a strong molasses smell that may take a bit of rinsing to get out.  Also, ensure any parts you are dipping are grease free, as this solution will not remove oil/grease.

I filled a 30 gallon barrel full of water and maybe 1/2 a gallon of molasses and have used it for over a year now to remove rust from numerous parts on my trans am - from suspension parts, to the steering column, intake manifold and even interior metal trim (cleans rusty seat tracks nicely).  If you let the part soak long enough you will be able to pull it out and rinse it off with clean water and a washcloth - the rust will rinse right off leaving a clean, rust free surface.  For parts that are not fragile or finished, rinse with clean water and lightly scrub with a wire brush or a red 3m scrub pad.  The longer you let it soak, the less elbow grease the part will need.  For example, my original 400 intake was hot tanked at the machine shop, but after it was removed it was forgotten and ended up being coated in rust.  I dropped it in the barrel and let it sit for a week or two.  When I pulled it out I hosed it off using a spray attachment on my garden hose.  The rust felt like jelly, and when it was blasted with the hose it came right off.  I used a scrub pad to get into some tight areas, but less than 15 minutes after removing it from the barrel I had a rust free, nearly ready to paint intake.

I've posted this a few times, but this method for what ever reason doesn't seem to be very popular.  If you are not in a rush, this is a great way to go, and when you're done, just dump the solution out.  Finally, Google "rust removal with molasses" on YouTube - you'll be able to see the process in action (the Australians love this method).
General Discussion / Re: Newbie with 81 Turbo seeking rebuild advice
« Last post by RENOVATIONS on November 19, 2014, 10:24:00 PM »
$3500. isn't too bad for a rebuild but the fact that they won't back their work with a warranty would encourage me to look elsewhere.
Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 10