Author Topic: Restoration of a 1977 Y82 SE 400 auto  (Read 8276 times)

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Offline JupiterBandit

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Re: Restoration of a 1977 Y82 SE 400 auto
« Reply #15 on: July 12, 2014, 11:36:57 PM »


This is when I tried using a small sandblaster hooked to a 60 gal compressor. Took way too long.

The inspiration for buying a industrial rig to blast my cars.
« Last Edit: July 12, 2014, 11:38:46 PM by JupiterBandit »

Offline JupiterBandit

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Re: Restoration of a 1977 Y82 SE 400 auto
« Reply #16 on: July 12, 2014, 11:39:33 PM »

Offline JupiterBandit

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Re: Restoration of a 1977 Y82 SE 400 auto
« Reply #17 on: July 12, 2014, 11:41:03 PM »

Offline JupiterBandit

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Re: Restoration of a 1977 Y82 SE 400 auto
« Reply #18 on: July 12, 2014, 11:43:08 PM »

Offline JupiterBandit

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Re: Restoration of a 1977 Y82 SE 400 auto
« Reply #19 on: July 12, 2014, 11:44:16 PM »

Offline JupiterBandit

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Re: Restoration of a 1977 Y82 SE 400 auto
« Reply #20 on: July 12, 2014, 11:45:30 PM »

Offline JupiterBandit

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Re: Restoration of a 1977 Y82 SE 400 auto
« Reply #21 on: July 12, 2014, 11:46:01 PM »

Offline JupiterBandit

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Re: Restoration of a 1977 Y82 SE 400 auto
« Reply #22 on: July 12, 2014, 11:46:59 PM »

Offline JupiterBandit

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Re: Restoration of a 1977 Y82 SE 400 auto
« Reply #23 on: July 12, 2014, 11:47:53 PM »

Offline JupiterBandit

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Re: Restoration of a 1977 Y82 SE 400 auto
« Reply #24 on: July 13, 2014, 07:25:38 PM »
Subframe is blasted and now disassembled. I just need to make sure I prep it for POR15.

I heard if you don't prep it then the POR15 fails.

Plus I have to figure out how to take the bushings out of the control arms

I also want to put in some lowering springs. Any suggestions?

Offline marx3

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Re: Restoration of a 1977 Y82 SE 400 auto
« Reply #25 on: July 14, 2014, 05:29:36 AM »
holy smokes, how many SE's do you have now? :-)
This one looks like it wont need too much bodywork... The bodywork you are doing looks good. It looks like it is welded edge to edge ( thats what we call it in Denmark, I hope you know what I mean )  instead of using overlap and spotwelds. This is the preferred method for durable longlasting bodywork.
Ignition & Induction.

"What are we gonna do, kidnap the Pope or something ?"

Offline JupiterBandit

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Re: Restoration of a 1977 Y82 SE 400 auto
« Reply #26 on: July 14, 2014, 08:10:58 AM »
I have a total of 3 SEs.
Over here we call it butt welding. I started dressing the welds and the seam disappears. I'm too much of a nut. It's why it's taking so long to get these cars back on the road. I find I have a sickness of wanting everything perfect and yet I don't have the skill or talent. Quite the dilemma.

Offline marx3

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Re: Restoration of a 1977 Y82 SE 400 auto
« Reply #27 on: July 14, 2014, 10:44:09 AM »
phew... nice.
Well, using this technique is the only correct way to go. Professionally speaking. My own TA had the quarters replaced before I got a hold of the car, and it was done the easy way with overlap and spotwelds. This technique will hold up fine, BUT the overlap is SURE to develop corrosion unless you really really soak it with rustprotection.
I guess I dont have to advise you, but here comes some: when "butt-welding" ( hehe ) never lay the weld next to each other going in one direction. Much better to go at it one weld at a time and make the welds with at least 5" between them. Welder in one hand and airgun in the other to cool each weld instantly. This was you keep the metal as cool as possible. Not the biggest issue when welding floor pans, but if you want a quarterpanel to be welded in as smooth and flush as possible, so you dont have to straighten it out with 4 pounds of bondo afterwards, you do the welds the cool way :-)
if I was living nearby, I would gladly come by and give you advise!
Say, how did the T-tops install go btw? you know, the deal where I sent you those measurements...
« Last Edit: July 14, 2014, 10:47:39 AM by marx3 »
Ignition & Induction.

"What are we gonna do, kidnap the Pope or something ?"

Offline JupiterBandit

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Re: Restoration of a 1977 Y82 SE 400 auto
« Reply #28 on: July 14, 2014, 10:51:58 AM »
I haven't tackled the Ttops yet. I did use your measurements to draw out where they would go and it looks like it will work great. Thanks again for that. This SE already has the ttops in the car. I should start a thread for the other car that needs the ttops cut back in

Offline JupiterBandit

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Re: Restoration of a 1977 Y82 SE 400 auto
« Reply #29 on: September 01, 2014, 12:26:10 PM »
So I got some work done on the car last weekend. I redid the subframe. I still have to figure out what I'm going to paint the springs with. I guess it has to be some sort of flexible paint.

I also have to work on replacing the control arm bushings. I bought rubber ones as I found they work better for my application over poly. I do have all new poly body mounts.

I bought all new steering components, center link, inner and outer tie rod ends, idler arm, pitman arm, the works. All MOOG so I'm happy about that. Got them from trans am plus on TAC.

I will be redoing the brakes as I get closer to paint on the car.

I'm also thinking of going all stainless on the fuel and brake lines. Anyone have any reason not to? would love to hear their thoughts.







I have almost all the sheet metal done. Just got to tackle the toe boards and I hear they repro them now so I will be getting them.

Then all the steel will be done and I can blast the car. Finally I'm getting closer to epoxy priming the whole car!!! Yeah!