Author Topic: Passenger door electrical issues  (Read 3066 times)

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Offline kc79ta

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Re: Passenger door electrical issues
« Reply #15 on: April 11, 2011, 11:09:39 AM »
Yes you are right it is called an actuator. A fancy word for an electric motor that moves in both directions.
Some parts books still call it a solenoid (don't ask me Y). I'm guessing because when power locks first came out. I think they only locked the doors, but you had to manualy unlock them. Which used a solenoid, works in one direction, so I think the term just hung around.

Yes them screws can be a pain. I had to drill a couple out in a parts car I had. Try to spray it up with some WD to wash out some dirt. Then spray some white greese in there and see if it helps.
Keith

Offline 79TeeTop

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Re: Passenger door electrical issues
« Reply #16 on: April 11, 2011, 11:38:58 AM »
One thing is certain.  A person would generally run on the assumption a brand new out of the box part was not the issue and after pulling my hair out I finally decided to try trading it out and see what happens since there was nothing else it could be.  Glad I gave it a try......

Offline ta78w72

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Re: Passenger door electrical issues
« Reply #17 on: April 11, 2011, 12:45:29 PM »
I'm not sure what your set up is, but the bracket that holds the solenoid is riveted to the door.  There are some nuts and bolts that hold the solenoid to the bracket.  So, you don't remove the bracket but do remove the solenoid from the bracket.  But your set up sounds different.

Make sure you're looking at the right area.  There are big screws for the door catch.

And, you could call it an actuator rather than a solenoid.
« Last Edit: April 11, 2011, 12:49:22 PM by ta78w72 »

Offline 79TeeTop

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Re: Passenger door electrical issues
« Reply #18 on: April 11, 2011, 05:47:36 PM »
The solenoid / actuator (whatever one chooses to call it) is replaced...again but this time with a unit that works.

Its the door latch that appears to be gummed up and needs cleaning / grease or simply just replaced.  This part...

https://secure.amesperf.com/qilan/Detail_Web?part_num=FF231DR

Offline ta78w72

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Re: Passenger door electrical issues
« Reply #19 on: April 11, 2011, 06:09:22 PM »
Sorry, I misread your post. Try lubricating that latch with some oil.  You'd be surprised how a little oil changes everything.

Offline 10th TA

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Re: Passenger door electrical issues
« Reply #20 on: April 15, 2011, 03:18:49 PM »
Hello,
I am having similar problems with the door locks. Neither side door lock will operate the electric operator. I have bypassed the switch and applied 12 volts to the wire leaving the switch and nothing happens. I then cut the wires going directly to the electric operator inside the door and applied voltage, the operator would only operate if I grounded the unlock wire during operation on the lock wire and vise versa. So I know the operator is good and I bypassed the switch.
The wires leaving the switch go into the dash area and then a moulded pair of wires come from the same area to the electric operator. Is there a relay or something under the dash?

Offline ta78w72

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Re: Passenger door electrical issues
« Reply #21 on: April 15, 2011, 04:00:32 PM »
There's nothing under the dash.  Bad move to cut the wires.  It's so easy to pull the door panel.  You may have a bad switch.

The way it works is there's ground on one terminal and 12 volt on the other......that either locks or unlocks.  Switch the ground and 12 volt and the opposite function happens.

Offline 10th TA

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Re: Passenger door electrical issues
« Reply #22 on: April 15, 2011, 04:26:05 PM »
I thought the actuator was grounded through the case mounting to the door and voltage on one wire unlocked and voltage on the other wire locked, bad assumption. Why do the wires go to the dash area before they go to the actuator? Is that ground switch function happening in the door switch?

Offline ta78w72

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Re: Passenger door electrical issues
« Reply #23 on: April 15, 2011, 05:59:36 PM »
The ground is on the drivers door.  The wiring has to connect from one side to the other.  That's why the wires go under the dash.  Plus, the harness has to plug into the fuse box.

Offline kc79ta

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Re: Passenger door electrical issues
« Reply #24 on: April 15, 2011, 06:26:21 PM »
Did you try bypassing both switches? just because you bypass one does nnot mean it's good. As ta78w72 stated the wires go through both switches, and you may have bypassed the good switch. You need to double check the connections at both switches, check switches with a multi meter, ground on drivers door, and the plugs behind the kick panels.

Did they just stop working or have they never worked for you? Are you power windows working?
Keith

Offline 79TeeTop

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Re: Passenger door electrical issues
« Reply #25 on: April 18, 2011, 02:27:04 PM »
Sounds like a bad switch to me if the locks work with volts applied directly to them.  Or a wire with a nick in it somewhere along the way from the switch to the lock.

I've decided I am going to replace the latch on at least my passenger side door.  I pretty much cannot unlock it with a key from outside.

Also, by way of update...yesterday I ran a ground wire from one of the power window motor mounting bolts to what would appear to be a decent ground under the dash.  No change.

The motor is new but I am wondering if it's a bad part?  The actuator I replaced was new and ended up being part of the problem since it was apparently bad right out of the box.

Offline 10th TA

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Re: Passenger door electrical issues
« Reply #26 on: April 19, 2011, 06:26:33 PM »
Neither side door lock has ever worked.
I just recently purchased the car and don't know a lot about it yet (just getting familar).

Both windows work, a little slow but they work. I tried to get to the wiring behind the drivers kick panel, but it looks like I need to remove the parking brake and to do that it looks like I need to remove th inner fender. Is that correct? I probably should do that anyway since the electric antenna doesn't work. The previous owner had the fuse pulled because the antenna motor ran constantly.

Does the replacement door lock switch come with the molded wiring plug with pig tails? While attempting to remove the plug from the switch a couple of wires broke off inside the plug. Not Good!

Offline ta78w72

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Re: Passenger door electrical issues
« Reply #27 on: April 19, 2011, 06:35:14 PM »
To remove the drivers side kick panel you need to unbolt the ebrake and move it aside.  There's a couple of nuts on the firewall in the engine compartment, and a couple by the kick panel.  Undo those and lay the ebrake system on the floor.  Then remove the metal trim on the side.  You'll need to move the weatherstripping away from the inside of the body to reveal one of the fasteners.  Remove that metal trim and that will give you access to removing the kick panel.  You don't have to remove the inner wheel well.

Offline kc79ta

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Re: Passenger door electrical issues
« Reply #28 on: April 19, 2011, 07:50:10 PM »
Did you check for 12 volts at the each switch with a meter? One wire at each switch should be live...with the key on of course.I don't have my wire diagram handy to say which wire is the live one. Just making sure to try the simple things before you take things a part.

No, the switch comes as just a switch. With the pins sticking out the back. The plug is part of the harness.  I hear ya, 30 year old plastic and wires likes to crack.
Keith

Offline kc79ta

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Re: Passenger door electrical issues
« Reply #29 on: April 19, 2011, 07:51:36 PM »
Oh wait. the key does not have to be on. Sorry. :)
Keith