Author Topic: 6.6 liter vs 6.6 t/a  (Read 16539 times)

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Offline hada76

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Re: 6.6 liter vs 6.6 t/a
« Reply #30 on: September 11, 2011, 10:49:26 PM »
and thuis the only way to have an "original" version of the car is to have it match the "factory correct" standard.

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Offline Burd Turd

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Re: 6.6 liter vs 6.6 t/a
« Reply #31 on: September 11, 2011, 11:15:11 PM »
I don't consider the decals on my shaker a " factory mistake". And I run into that all the time , I was driving my TA when the hot shot telling me things was in 4th or 5th grade then. I still learn alot about the hobby every day, but what I know, because I was there I'll tell you.
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Offline flashno1

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Re: 6.6 liter vs 6.6 t/a
« Reply #32 on: September 12, 2011, 10:17:57 AM »
I think that you make a very good point SgtRock.  A purist might say in a perfect world that mistakes at the factory do not make it factory original.  Realists might say, hey it came from the factory that way so that makes it factory original. I tend to lean toward the latter thinking, it is not a perfect world out there, it gets messy sometimes and that's OK.   In the coin and stamp collector world, mistakes at the mint make it more valuable.  The mistakes that we are discussing do not affect the drivability or appearance.  Maybe someone at Pontiac wanted to designate the W72 Performance Package further by adding that shaker decal, I think that is the why some say the TA 6.6 decal is incorrect on the Standard L78, but what if you ordered your T/A with the performance option, but deleted the Hood emblem would you still get the shaker decal? On my T/A that was an option via the build sheet.  I was assuming that is why I got the shaker decal, too because it was ordered with the Hood Emblem. Anybody ever see a T/A optioned that way?
« Last Edit: September 12, 2011, 10:19:54 AM by flashno1 »

Offline winks79

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Re: 6.6 liter vs 6.6 t/a
« Reply #33 on: September 12, 2011, 04:29:39 PM »
I think i am correct in saying that bird, or bird delete, did not matter. shaker designation was there either way. Hey, if i am wrong that's okay though, you guys will not be mad at me, right? There could have been a few that slipped through without shaker decals by mistake, but they still should have been there, but may have come from the factory without them.

Offline SgtRock

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Re: 6.6 liter vs 6.6 t/a
« Reply #34 on: September 12, 2011, 10:01:24 PM »
and thuis the only way to have an "original" version of the car is to have it match the "factory correct" standard.

bingo
So just so I understand your position, if a car had dealer installed side moldings that were NOT installed by the factory, this would no longer be considered a "factory correct" car?

Offline Burd Turd

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Re: 6.6 liter vs 6.6 t/a
« Reply #35 on: September 12, 2011, 10:28:53 PM »
When would the 79 decals become avail? could you get 79 decals in 78, I doubt it.
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Offline eroc022

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Re: 6.6 liter vs 6.6 t/a
« Reply #36 on: September 12, 2011, 11:01:53 PM »
78 y88 had the 5 color decals.....
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Offline kentuckyyeti

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Re: 6.6 liter vs 6.6 t/a
« Reply #37 on: September 12, 2011, 11:05:26 PM »
All 1978 Solar Gold cars had the 5-shade decals, not just the Y88's.  No other 1978 models got the 5-shade decals.

Offline RENOVATIONS

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Re: 6.6 liter vs 6.6 t/a
« Reply #38 on: September 12, 2011, 11:35:52 PM »
Dead horse: consider yourself beaten  ;)
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Offline eroc022

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Re: 6.6 liter vs 6.6 t/a
« Reply #39 on: September 13, 2011, 01:49:40 AM »
Dead horse: consider yourself beaten  ;)

Just for fun can we beat some more? I love it when you beat a good hunk of meat part its prime....... Haha
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Offline Burd Turd

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Re: 6.6 liter vs 6.6 t/a
« Reply #40 on: September 13, 2011, 08:52:37 AM »
LOL!
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Offline SgtRock

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Re: 6.6 liter vs 6.6 t/a
« Reply #41 on: September 13, 2011, 12:48:36 PM »
Thats one reason I dont do those types of shows anymore, some guy set up in some parking lot and thinks he's at Pebble Beach telling me my car is not correct. ::)

In the end, this is what it's all about.  When people stop going to shows because some know-it-all says something is incorrect is an indication that the hobby is in danger of being taken over by elitists and is being hurt by such sanctimonious attitudes. No one here is an authority enough to say one way or the other what constitutes "correct" on items not documented on things like a build sheet in such a way as to completely discount evidence to the contrary.  There is ample factual evidence on both sides and there are real life examples like Bird Turd here who can affirm their car was a certain way when it was delivered.  My only argument has ever been that someone should not be telling someone else their car is not "factory correct" when there is so much evidence to the contrary and that the factory standards were not always followed.  It would be better to stick to the big items like engine sizes, transmissions, interior builds etc. (things documented on the build sheet), and leave the small things like decals, emblems, and shaker hood decals (things not documented on the build sheet) alone.  Prudent leeway should be granted here based on the knowledge that "factory correct" is a near useless term when there is plenty of anecdotal evidence that the factory didn't always follow it. By letting this cancer eat away at the hobby is only going to drive more people away from sharing their cars. I like that the T/A Nationals actually allows cars to be considered "stock" that have a whole host of changes and things added by others that were not added by the factory -- like open hood scoops, stereos, exhaust (not headers), shifters, etc.  This was smart on their part. We should be encouraging more people to participate in shows regardless of the small items like shaker hood decals instead of turning people away with elitist attitudes.
« Last Edit: September 13, 2011, 12:52:01 PM by SgtRock »

Offline winks79

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Re: 6.6 liter vs 6.6 t/a
« Reply #42 on: September 13, 2011, 02:25:22 PM »
 am a purist. What bothers me might not bother someone else. Example, when my
Thats one reason I dont do those types of shows anymore, some guy set up in some parking lot and thinks he's at Pebble Beach telling me my car is not correct. ::)

In the end, this is what it's all about.  When people stop going to shows because some know-it-all says something is incorrect is an indication that the hobby is in danger of being taken over by elitists and is being hurt by such sanctimonious attitudes. No one here is an authority enough to say one way or the other what constitutes "correct" on items not documented on things like a build sheet in such a way as to completely discount evidence to the contrary.  There is ample factual evidence on both sides and there are real life examples like Bird Turd here who can affirm their car was a certain way when it was delivered.  My only argument has ever been that someone should not be telling someone else their car is not "factory correct" when there is so much evidence to the contrary and that the factory standards were not always followed.  It would be better to stick to the big items like engine sizes, transmissions, interior builds etc. (things documented on the build sheet), and leave the small things like decals, emblems, and shaker hood decals (things not documented on the build sheet) alone.  Prudent leeway should be granted here based on the knowledge that "factory correct" is a near useless term when there is plenty of anecdotal evidence that the factory didn't always follow it. By letting this cancer eat away at the hobby is only going to drive more people away from sharing their cars. I like that the T/A Nationals actually allows cars to be considered "stock" that have a whole host of changes and things added by others that were not added by the factory -- like open hood scoops, stereos, exhaust (not headers), shifters, etc.  This was smart on their part. We should be encouraging more people to participate in shows regardless of the small items like shaker hood decals instead of turning people away with elitist attitudes.

I agree with you. I am not going to put down someone or their car, just because i am a purist. What bothers me might not bother someone else. Example, when my car was repainted they installed the T/A 6.6 shaker decals on my 403 car. For a few   years I let it go, saying to myself that it really did not matter, no one cares, plenty of them out there that are done the same way. Some people even claim a few may have come that way. Well i could not stand it, so i put the correct ones on about 5 years after the fact. Most people would just let something like that go. But, who am i to argue with someone when they say their car came with this or with that. It may have, i am just glad other people are interested in the same hobby i am. Factory or dealer added, it is something that was on the car new. Just here to have a good time.

Offline SgtRock

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Re: 6.6 liter vs 6.6 t/a
« Reply #43 on: September 13, 2011, 03:40:27 PM »
am a purist. What bothers me might not bother someone else.

That's what I am struggling with right now.  I am finally going to have my Solar Gold '79 repainted this winter at the end of the Car Show season. I already bought the decal kit from FBodyWarehouse and I ordered both the 3 inch sail birds and the 6 inch sail birds.  I am struggling with which way to go.  I like the looks of the 6 inch bird and the original owner told me they were on it when he bought it.  But I also show the car a lot and want to go to Nationals, probably next year if I can take a break from the war.  That part of me tells me I need to have it the way Pontiac intended it to be, regardless of the way it drove off the lot.  So I am conflicted. If I've gone to all the trouble to bring the car back to its original state by fixing this and that, seems like I shouldn't stop mid-stream.  So, I dunno....I guess if I could see a scan of the actual Pontiac requirements for the sail birds (like the one Hitman posted for the shaker decal) that would help me decide. If I woulda known then what I know now about the decals I probably would not have bought the car as I would have suspected the owner had lied. And that would have been a shame because it really is a fantasic, low mileage, wharehouse kept WS6 car with really low miles, not a spec of rust anywhere, and really, really clean.  I didn't even know it was an WS6 until I got the build sheet from the rear seat and the PHS docs after I took delivery.  I'm glad i got it.
« Last Edit: September 13, 2011, 03:42:10 PM by SgtRock »

Offline dblhh

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Re: 6.6 liter vs 6.6 t/a
« Reply #44 on: September 13, 2011, 04:10:14 PM »
I would be interested Dblhh, where was your bird assembled back in 1978? And was there a Firebird Decal on your hood? ...

Sorry it took me a while to answer you back.
I think my T/A was built in the Norwood, Ohio plant, but I'm not for certain and I sold that car back in the fall of 1980. I thought I still have the original window sticker somewhere around here, but have not been able to find it yet. I also don't have the VIN number, so I can't get any info from PHS.
My T/A did have the hood bird, if that is the firebird decal you are referring to.
« Last Edit: September 13, 2011, 04:13:10 PM by dblhh »
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