Author Topic: Body Work  (Read 1494 times)

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Offline 1979T/A6.6

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Body Work
« on: June 18, 2008, 07:33:44 PM »
Hey all, I'm getting prepared to do some body work and I was wondering if anyone knows a good but inexpensive set of tools and some inexpensive primer to keep the rust away.  I have some patches to take care of and might as well take care of the crappy paint job that was done to the car.  I can peal my paint off.
Sal
'79 T/A 6.6 in resto
Restoration Progress Thread


Offline cobray

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Re: Body Work
« Reply #1 on: June 18, 2008, 09:21:04 PM »
I good self etching primer is good.
How much and what kind of bodywork ar you going to do?
POR workes great for some aplications.
Do you need tools for welding, fuller, paint?  What kind of tools atre you looking for and for wahr purpose?
What do you plan to do?

Jeff

Jeff
1976 TA SE(clone)
Purchased: Aug 1982
Sat & Rusted away for 20 years
REBORN!!!!: Aug 2007 (after 3 years of restoration)
http://s235.photobucket.com/albums/ee80/jlittlef/

Offline 1979T/A6.6

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Re: Body Work
« Reply #2 on: June 18, 2008, 10:38:12 PM »
As far as body work I have some patch panels for the rear quarters and need to fix my drivers side pillar.  Then I was going to respray the car in some gray primer to keep the new work from getting ruined.  I figured I would fix the dents in my doors they aren't too bad.  I figured I might as well spray the whole car so I don't have gray patches all over the place. 
The tools I'm looking for are a set of hammers and dollies. My sheet metal is not so straight.  I know where to get sanding blocks and sandpaper.  I do need some filler though
Jeeze there is alot more to this than I thought.  Hope I can afford it.  Haha
Sal
'79 T/A 6.6 in resto
Restoration Progress Thread


Offline cobray

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Re: Body Work
« Reply #3 on: June 18, 2008, 10:51:20 PM »
Do you have a welder?
Have you done bodywork before?
The right tools make the job go much faster with beter results.
What kind of paint are you going to use?   You have to make sure all the paints/primers you use are compatabe. 
1976 TA SE(clone)
Purchased: Aug 1982
Sat & Rusted away for 20 years
REBORN!!!!: Aug 2007 (after 3 years of restoration)
http://s235.photobucket.com/albums/ee80/jlittlef/

Offline 1979T/A6.6

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Re: Body Work
« Reply #4 on: June 18, 2008, 11:14:59 PM »
O yeah forgot to add I have a MIG, Know how to weld, haven't done body work before.  I don't really have the money for paint at the moment.  I need to seal the body though because the last paint job was so bad its falling off my car and the last thing I need is more rust.  When I eventually have it painted I'm going to have it done by a professional (there is a few local guys that specialize in classic cars). 
Sal
'79 T/A 6.6 in resto
Restoration Progress Thread


Offline bobg

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Re: Body Work
« Reply #5 on: June 18, 2008, 11:49:35 PM »
If the paint is peeling you really should strip it all off. Your outer coat will only be as good as what is underneath. Sealers and epoxy primers work great but any delaminateing paint will bite you down the road if not removed. I don't know if the car will be stored inside or out, but if it is out for any long period of time I would coat any bare metal or fresh filler surfaces with a epoxy primer to prevent rust through. Most primers are porous and will let water seep through and rust if in moisture for any long period. Epoxy will not.If the car is going to be inside then bare metal can be treated with a etch primer followed by what ever you choose.Check your local auto paint supplier, and they can help you with what brands that are cheaper. Be carefull though, because when it comes to most paints the "you get what you pay for" saying does apply. Though I have heard of people using cheaper products and having good luck. It is your car and your choice as to what route you go. Just remember body work can be time consuming, but rewarding when done right, but not at all fun if you have to redo because of a product failure. Just my 2 cents. Good luck

Bob
79  TATA 400 W72 4spd
79 gold 400 4spd w72 T top
74 superduty 455 4spd
70 Trans am Ram air 4speed

Offline 1979T/A6.6

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Re: Body Work
« Reply #6 on: June 18, 2008, 11:59:13 PM »
Yeah the car is outside under tarps.  I was hoping not to have to got the epoxy route because it was alot more expensive but if its going to save me from the rust its well worth it.  I didn't realize regular primer was so porous.  How much primer would I need to coat a car.  A gallon from Eastwood is about 85 bucks and I know their stuff is good but I'll do some shopping around. 
Sal
'79 T/A 6.6 in resto
Restoration Progress Thread


Offline bobg

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Re: Body Work
« Reply #7 on: June 19, 2008, 12:33:10 AM »
I believe a gallon will get the car covered.

Bob
79  TATA 400 W72 4spd
79 gold 400 4spd w72 T top
74 superduty 455 4spd
70 Trans am Ram air 4speed

Offline 1979T/A6.6

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Re: Body Work
« Reply #8 on: June 19, 2008, 12:36:37 AM »
Ok thats good to know, then it wont cost so much, i already have a gun to spray with (mighht as well put my fathers god-knows-how-much-he-spent-on-it paint gun thatIi think was used never).
Sal
'79 T/A 6.6 in resto
Restoration Progress Thread


Offline cobray

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Re: Body Work
« Reply #9 on: June 19, 2008, 09:07:09 AM »
I would recomend talking to an auto paint suplier like PPG.  You want to make sure all you paing is compatable.  There are special rust preventative paints out there.  I got a gallon but found out it was not compatable with my existing paint.  I did not want to go down to the bare metal so I used a laqure based filler/primer.  It is not as good as some for preventing rust but will work with laqure.  It will keep the rust away for a while in the garage but I would not want to keep nit outside.  You don't want moister to get on the primer.
You can prime the car with epoxy primer and then paint with urathane.
I recoment talking to a auto paint store, not a parts store.

I used a cheap paint gun from costco, It worked great!
harbor freight has many inexpensive air tools like a DA and other sanders, cheep and work great if not for every day comercial use.
a nice polisher for under $30 too.

A good bodywork book is a good resource as well.


Jeff

 
1976 TA SE(clone)
Purchased: Aug 1982
Sat & Rusted away for 20 years
REBORN!!!!: Aug 2007 (after 3 years of restoration)
http://s235.photobucket.com/albums/ee80/jlittlef/

Offline 1979T/A6.6

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Re: Body Work
« Reply #10 on: June 19, 2008, 12:22:49 PM »
Ok thanks for the info.  Ill search out the shops on the island and talk to my neighbors son who does autobody work.
I have no shortage for tools trust me. My dad is a tool nut and we have a tool collection to die for.  The only tools I don't have are body working tools because my father didn't do that when he was a mechanic.
Im also waiting on a guy who just had his car done.  When I see the car again Im going to get some details if it came out good, this way I don't have to go off the island to have my car done and its within a few minutes of my house. 
Sal
'79 T/A 6.6 in resto
Restoration Progress Thread