Author Topic: trunk won't stay up when open  (Read 1279 times)

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Offline cataloney

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trunk won't stay up when open
« on: January 03, 2020, 07:49:53 PM »
my trunk won't stay up when i open it??
i had to but stick to keep it up
i want to know the right parts to replace pls
is it ROD, Deck Lid / Trunk Lid Hinge Torque ?

Offline RENOVATIONS

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Re: trunk won't stay up when open
« Reply #1 on: January 03, 2020, 07:58:06 PM »
Torsion rods may need to be replaced.
If your car has a rear spoiler, you should have a two different sized rods.
Replacement can be tricky.
Jeff

Projects:
_____________
1978 Trans Am
1970 Camaro
1970 'Cuda

Offline cataloney

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Re: trunk won't stay up when open
« Reply #2 on: January 03, 2020, 08:55:53 PM »
yes it's trans am with spoiler.
what should i do?

Offline RENOVATIONS

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Re: trunk won't stay up when open
« Reply #3 on: January 04, 2020, 06:07:55 AM »
Step 1) Be very careful...of yourself...AND the car (rear glass in particular). There is a lot of tension on the rods.

Here are a few links to give you an idea what is involved:

http://www.78ta.com/HTAF/index.php?topic=34819.0

http://nastyz28.com/threads/how-do-you-remove-and-replace-trunk-torsion-rods.231017/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLzzsyD-hek

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R_hTX3m0Cz0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SJyP7SfrLI0

Jeff

Projects:
_____________
1978 Trans Am
1970 Camaro
1970 'Cuda

Offline Stringer

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Re: trunk won't stay up when open
« Reply #4 on: January 08, 2020, 11:38:38 PM »
I had to replace mine. If you have a spoiler, you need to order the correct one.  YES it is a bitch. I made a tool to replace mine; which made it much easier.

The trunk toque springs are located under the rear panel that is between the trunk lid and rear window. The spring that is bad is probably the one that has the most pre-load. It attaches on the right, stretches along the back and clips on the left (driver's side) via the L shape end.

The spring must be "twisted" and clipped into place.  When attached, the "L" shaped end should be pointing straight up. You must "twist" the spring over 180o to clip it in place (twist about 210o and release to 200o ).

The amount of torque involved in twisting the rod is what most people struggle with.  I made the job much easier by creating a tool for the application. It is kind of difficult to describe but here it is:

1) Find a spare 1/2 inch socket.
2) Drill a hole straight through the sides of the socket.
3) Placed the socket onto the rod (slide it onto the L portion through the holes).
4) Attach an extension (long enough to extend past the fender - 12 inch or more).
5) Much like tightening a bolt, twist the rod and clip it into place.

Tip: Tape off the area around the trunk hinge to avoid scratching the paint. Use black electrical tape around the "junction of the rod and socket" to "tape" the socket onto the rod and restrict mobility. This will improve the ability to control the "twisting" and "downward" movement need to successfully clip the end of the rod in place.  To remove the tool, I just cut the socket off with a drimmel, instead of trying to pry the spring back to slide off - just seemed easier that way - one time job - no need to save the tool.

I hope I described process well enough. Without the tool it is a bitch. With the tool...it was a pretty easy job.

Feel free to ask questions if you need to. 
« Last Edit: January 10, 2020, 09:30:33 PM by Stringer »