Topic: My Silver '77 T/A Refresh Project **Progress Update 04/26/2013**

[grizzkiller]

ahhh, i was gonna have them do my 15x8's as well but i just wasnt ready to send them out and missed their special. oh well maybe they will have another. again, they look great.

[hada76]

can i ask where you got them refinished? they look great!!

curious, how does the cost of resto compare with a new set from year one?

[Ag77T/A]

curious, how does the cost of resto compare with a new set from year one?

A new set of 15x8 from YO is $750 compared to the regular resto price of $675 from fbodywarehouse.  For only $75 more I would prob have went with the new but I chose the restoration since I already had the original wheels and the sale price was $600 w/ new center caps and lugs.



 

[hada76]

curious, how does the cost of resto compare with a new set from year one?

A new set of 15x8 from YO is $750 compared to the regular resto price of $675 from fbodywarehouse.  For only $75 more I would prob have went with the new but I chose the restoration since I already had the original wheels and the sale price was $600 w/ new center caps and lugs.

agreed, and the fact that the new ones say "made in china" on the back

[grizzkiller]

curious, how does the cost of resto compare with a new set from year one?

A new set of 15x8 from YO is $750 compared to the regular resto price of $675 from fbodywarehouse.  For only $75 more I would prob have went with the new but I chose the restoration since I already had the original wheels and the sale price was $600 w/ new center caps and lugs.

agreed, and the fact that the new ones say "made in china" on the back

oh god i hope not!

[Ag77T/A]

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[Ag77T/A]

My fuel gauge exhibited the typical symptom of a shorted level sensor so I decided to drop the tank and see how bad it was rusted plus wanted to hunt for my build sheet which turned out to be a bust. The rust was a lot worse than I thought so I ordered a new tank and level sender assembly instead of having the original cleaned and coated.

I was not satisfied with the replacement tank but decided to use it with some mods to correct some of the plumbing issues.
I still have to clean up the clips and return line before I reinstall the tank. I'm going to clear coat the tank to try and help maintain the natural steel look.

The factory setup:                                                                 

     

Replacement Tank:



Dusted off the plumbing tools and got to work:



Double flared the tank vent line:



Decided to bend my own vent line and not chop up my original. The supply line on the replacement level assembly has a slightly different route:



Return and Vent Connections:



Front side of tank:



Tank connections:



Here is a neat little trick that I learned. Don't fully compress the adapter when doing the first step of the double flare. Stop short of bottoming the adapter out. When you pull the flare adapter off your left with a little bump that holds the hose a little more snug than just straight tubing.

[Ag77T/A]

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[Ag77T/A]

**************    Engine Cleanup & Paint / Bottom End Freshening Up & Upgrades   ****************

Crank removed to install BOP's Viton rear main seal & one piece oil pan gasket also cleaning up for paint and installing a new set of brass welch plugs:



Crank looks great. Installing new bearings while it's apart:



Partial VIN on the block:

[Jaysen]

Are you doing this work all on your own?  Got help?  Got professional help?  I'm just starting on a project with a 1978 TA, and have realized that all the engine work is out of my league.  I'll have to get some help down at the base auto hobby shop.

[Ag77T/A]

Are you doing this work all on your own?  Got help?  Got professional help?  I'm just starting on a project with a 1978 TA, and have realized that all the engine work is out of my league.  I'll have to get some help down at the base auto hobby shop.

Yup...doing most of it myself. I grew up in the automotive parts & repair industry plus I'm still employed in it so I have a full machine shop and lots of experienced professional help at my disposal. ;-) 
So far I've only had to farm out my powder coating, wheel refinishing and re-plating of a few parts.  My brother-in-law is a painter so I have that covered if/when it comes time.

[Ag77T/A]

*****   DIY Zinc Phosphate Finish On My Hood Hinges and Latch Assy.  ****
 

My tank and heating setup:



The parkerizing concentrate solution is mixed at a ratio of 4oz per gallon of water. WD-40 is sprayed on the parts immediately after removing the parts from the acid to help stabilize and protect the finish.



To make it easier to maneuver the hinge in my blast cabinet and also get to the areas that are covered when its in the full open position. I built a tool to remove and reinstall the spring. The worm gear clamps on the tool help keep the angle pieces in place when the spring is expanded:



First step in the process is to remove all traces of grease,silicone & oils. I've found that a sodium hydroxide (Lye) cleaner such as Easy-Off oven cleaner works best. Then prepare the surface using a fine blast media such as glass beads or aluminum oxide.



The solution has to be kept between 180-200 for proper etching. As you can see my pan was a little shallow so I had to flip the hinge every couple of minutes in order to maintain an even finish. Soak time of 8 to 10 minutes is usually all it takes to achieve the proper finish.



Here is the finished product after a couple of coats of WD-40. The camera flash makes the finish appear a little washed out. In the natural light they have a medium grey color.

[Ag77T/A]

****  Steering Gear Rebuild  ****

Contents of the rebuild kit include various o-rings, shaft seals, Teflon sealing rings, snap rings, washers, a couple of needle bearings and a top cover gasket.



Gear completely degreased and soda blasted clean.



Unbolt top cover and remove pitman shaft.



Remove piston cover by removing the lock ring. You will have to rotate the ring so that the edges will align with the hole on the side and use a screwdriver or awl to push the end out of the groove.



Rotating the input stub shaft will push the cover out of the housing. Make sure to account for any balls that fall out inside the gear housing and rack piston assembly.



Use a brass drift to remove the adjustment plug lock nut.



Using a spanner wrench unscrew the adjuster plug.



Remove and install the snap rings, seals and needle bearings. You can remove the bearings by gently hammering or pressing them in and out of the housing and adjuster plug.



Parts clean and ready for installation.



Install the backup o-rings and sealing rings onto the valve body and rack piston.



Parts of the input shaft and control valve assembly.



Assemble the inner valve spool by inserting pin into the proper hole in the spool.



Insert the stub shaft into the drum and valve body. Make sure it's fully seated so the pin engages into the slot. (Sorry for the blurry picture)



Install the o-ring between the valve body and rack piston helix shaft. The bearing and races are directional so pay attention to the proper orientation when installing.



Insert complete input/valve assembly along with the adjuster into gear housing. Do not push on the stub shaft. Only apply pressure to the adjuster plug to push. Then use spanner wrench to slightly tighten the plug while checking for freeplay and smoothness. Once the assembly feels tight back off just slightly then install the locknut with a brass drift to snug.



Check to make sure the helix shaft is installed correctly by rotating and looking into the end and see if it wobbles.



Use grease to hold the balls between the return ball guide halves before installing guide into the rack piston. Some units have different size balls and are usually different colors so you would alternate between the two when inserting them.



Use the same grease technique by using grease in the grooves between the two ball return holes in the piston.



Install the rack piston in the gear housing and rotate the input stub shaft to thread piston back onto the inner gear shaft. Looking through the end of the piston to make sure any of the balls didn't get pushed out of the grooves. If all is well re-install the pitman shaft and cover assembly. Snug the four cover bolts then tighten the threaded piston end plug.



Install the plug o-ring, housing plug and lock ring.



Center the gear on the high point and adjust until the box steers freely except for light touching at center point then back the screw off about 25 degrees and tighten locknut.



Completed unit ready for installation.

[Ag77T/A]

I had to strip my calipers to get them powder coated so I thought I would share my rebuilding process.

Only a few parts needed for the job:


You need a fluid to lube the rubber parts for assembly. If you do not have any hydrolic assembly fluid you could use brake fluid but never use petroleum based fluid for assembly as it will attack the rubber. It only takes a little bit. I've used this same bottle of assembly fluid for over 10 years:



Stretch the dust boot over the piston and pull it down till the lip of the seal sits in the groove:



Invert the boot by pulling the outer part of the seal up flush with the outer lip of the piston:



Fit the flat piston seal in the groove. Make sure the bore is clean and free of loose debris. The piston only rides on the seal so it's not necessary to have a mirror finish. Push the piston all the way into the bore. It's a little tight but you should be able to do it with your hands:



My seal driver was not large enough so I made a tool out of an outer race from a hub bearing & C Clamp. I needed a thin piece of metal so I made use of an edger blade. Use the tool to push the dust seal it's seat:





Lastly install the rubber o-rings and metal sleeve that enable the caliper to slide on the bolts:



Completed assembly ready for serivice:

[Elz]

Nice work.